Unless at drags with a boosted manual, you slip the clutch a heap

I love the smell of burnt clutches in the evening, it's the smell of drag racing

Or is that just me...???

Heat generation and transfer in automotive dry clutch engagement

https://link.springer.com/article/10...Fjzus.A1700481

The abstract summaries the concept that heat is generated from clutch slip during engagement with a focus on managing the coefficient of friction to limit heat-related-degredation of clutch function.

The other concept is to increase the pressure or force, besides changing materials, so there is less slip during engagement or quicker grab. Many factors will determine the amount of slip. A clutch that is overbuilt compared to the torque may have minimal heat issues. As the materials and pressure get closer to the amount of torque that will overcome static friction, the shorter the life of the clutch will be.

While it is a reasonable assertion to say that Subaru designed the OEM clutch to fail before the transmission, that really doesn’t say much. It doesn’t mean that anything slightly past the OEM clutch’s abilities is ticking time bomb territory. Take the Supra’s V160 GETRAG: bpu 400whp is about max for the stock clutch, but the box will hold double that or more.

Work on your technique. Clutches don’t slip. This isn’t a superbike bro. :bonk: i kid

Senario 1: There's nothing better than loading up on the handbrake to build some boost then slipping the bejebus out of the clutch for a good launch

Senario 2: Not slipping it enough, lossing boost and bogging down

Senario 3: Not slipping it enough and bagging it up to a smoke show of fail

For me, unfortunately, it's senario 2 or 3 quite regularly


Maybe I'm just shit at launching, at least senario 3 gave the spectators a laugh, senario 2 just sucks balls

Random aside that probably doesn't apply here:

I can't recall why, but I definitely recall solving the math problem. Believe it or not, they design a tiny bit of slip in auto transmissions to improve life. I think it was because you basically want some slop between what the engine was inputting and all the NVH coming back into it. Not sure if they do in manual as well. That was 15 years ago when I was an imagineer. I dont do math anymore :lol:

I’d like to thank everyone for the valuable feedback, which I’ll take under advisement for the next steps... namely, I’ll look for catch cans setup that is not subject to freezing issues in the winter, and check with my tuner to see if some additonal margin or failsafe can be built in the tune, along with my own driving habits.

Although the tune on dyno ended up with higher output than initially planned or expected, the actual power numbers were never a priority, and bragging rights were of zero considerations in the mix, simply driving enjoyment for my driving style and reliability were the two factors in making the build. The tuner had indicated that the engine was in great shape and did not have to push the engine to produce the tune, which is good. In real life driving situations, I rarely ever reach peak torque or hp. The setup has been very reliable so far, and I am looking for it to stay that way...

Somewhat related: One thing that was taken in consideration when replacing my clutch was to leave one side organic (the other is kevlar), such as to protect the downstream drive train, along with better day to day driveability as well. So in a way, this goes with the philosophy of having some components protect others.

Please google how a torque converter works because it sounds like you are not familiar.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_converter

Hey man, I’d love to get more info on that LP Turbo OEM Kit, would like to support a Canadian company.

Ultimate racing is Canadian. I have their kit and exhaust, had their fp/op before the turbo too. Love em. Check em out! Cheapest turbo out there if you go with base kit. Plenty of upgrade options too.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Here’s the link to the Lachute Performance Turbo stage 1 kit:
https://lachuteperformance.com/colle...bo-kit-stage-1

They also have a Stage 2, that can do 400+ hp for those who want to go all out...
They are well known for their LP400 version of the STI, and their built series of AK motors as well.

They also offer a LP Turbo version of the BRZ RS with OEM equivalent warranty:
https://lachuteperformance.com/pages/brz-lp-turbo

They have been doing R&D on the Brz since it came out. I have been very pleased with the kit, but also their customer support. They are definitely worth encouraging. Their cat back is also great, makes for a perfect sound, without drone.

huh?

The thread was talking about clutch slip before it grabs/locks then you mentioned slip in automatic transmissions. I assumed you were either unaware that torque converters exist in autos and don’t/can’t in manuals, and if you were aware, that you were unaware of how they work because saying autos have slip is stating the obvious.