Car is all wired up except for the can bus translator, should be here next week. Once it gets here all the wiring will be tidied up and sleeved.

Throttle pedal is installed and working just like factory (it was painted after taking the photo below). I drove it today out of the shop and got it towed to an exhaust shop and drove it onto their ramp. Clutch is perfect, brake works, no power steering yet because of the can bus.

Anyway the exhaust should be done tomorrow and then It's time for a proper intake pipe.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...11a03618fb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b033e982e3.jpg

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Exhaust is done along with the intake. Not the best welding but hopefully the boogers won't show after paint. I'll just leave the vibrant muffler and tips unpainted. The headers got bungs for O2 sensors and heat wrapped since they're very close to the steering column and the starter motor.

https://youtu.be/NbM-I-WYyFQ

Filter is located right behind the grille I was hoping we could fit it behind the fog light but it was too long and I couldn't find a decent filter locally that would fit. Silicon couplers will be color matched later lol.

Next, the last piece of the puzzle: a hood!

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Drove the car two days ago around the block for the first time. Went through all gears without issues. Unfortunately the engine was in limp mode due to some CELs from the air injection system. The throttle wouldn't open past 15-20%. My tuner will disable all the CELs currently showing and hopefully that will snap it out of limp mode. If not I'll have to fork out $600 for bypass modules.

Also our initial coolant hoses were routed the opposite way of how the FA20 was. We didn't think it would matter but the engine hit about 206 degrees while idling without fans and about 200F with both fans on.

Now that we have switched the coolant hoses and removed the thermostat coolant won't go above 190F without fans and below 170F with both fans on. A lower temp thermostat (185F) is on the way to replace the factory one (200F).

The filter was also relocated behind the fog light as I initially wanted. That way it won't catch as much dirt and dust.

The 3rd CAN BUS module arrived but didn't work either. At this point we assume something along the way causes the microchip or some component to fail while shipping. I'll be receiving 5 all at once this time through a different courier. Hopefully at least one of them will work.

In the mean time the hood will be marked and cut by water jet and then to a body shop.

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direction into and out of the radiator doesn't matter, I even had mine backwards. not having a fan shroud, those small motor fans ( I couldn't get enough airflow with the same units) and having both pushers and pullers (pushers are basically a restriction) are the issues. I spent a ton of time figuring out the best way to keep a swap cool. bigger aluminum rad with a full shroud and dual spals with the big motors was the only way that worked perfect. any other way it would be fine for a while, but eventually heat soak to the point the system could not keep up

That's what we thought initially but we switched the flow direction and took out the thermostat at the same time. So the issue might just have been the thermostat only. I do have the Jackson racing dual radiator and oil cooler and it is much thicker than stock.

I also have the fan shroud made by JDL with the biggest spal fans available and the two pushers are spal as well. I had the pushers installed because of the turbo intercooler I had before blocking the air way and in the summer the AC was having a lot of issues due to the condenser not able to dissipate the heat. I might take them off now but I don't think they're that much of a restriction.

Anyway, heat is not an issue at the moment I might switch the direction flow one more time without a thermostat or with a lower temp one to confirm the direction is not an issue. Also it will look much cleaner.

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All CELs relating to the transmission, o2 sensors, emissions and air injection pumps are cleared and disabled. No more limp mode!

Here is a short video of a start up and some revs going into the body shop.
http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5a6374a8...2gQJuWaMs0.mp4

The hood is currently under the knife

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Forgot about the junk supercharger I borrowed. Had to cut the hood a "little" bit more now that it's on there lol. This is going to be interesting 😂

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Sounds sick!!!

It's weird how the same engine in a different car sounds totally different. Here is my truck with long tubes and two small mufflers on each bank. Kinda the same but not really. I really like how the vibrant muffler makes it sound much deeper and not as raspy.

https://youtu.be/m8OH1VKNN2w


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Who would have thought a truck motor could sound so sexy?!?!

We finally were able to get the dash working along with the power steering! All thanks to my friend Gerald for figuring out all the required CAN IDs and programming the translator. Cruise control is probably not possible at this point since the ECU requires a speed signal from the auto transmission that comes in the truck along with ABS. The 86 ABS however we will try to make it work eventually.

http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5a6ddfc6...192337_164.mp4

The car is still at the body shop. The hood is almost done. Its gonna have a few layers of fiber on top and then painted and installed by the end of the week. Still not sure if I should color match it or painted black so the 'cowl' doesn't show as much...

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Sounds good!

Paint match, if you don’t like it you could wrap it later or repaint,

Drove the car without limp mode for the first time today. Everything works perfect except that it was bogging under heavy load. It's probably the in tank regulator. Any hints how to remove it or bypass it? There is one already on the fuel rails of the 3UR so it's basically useless.

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VitViper FPR Blank. Click picture

https://vittuned.com/media/catalog/p...p/fprblank.jpg

Ordered. I might try to make the stock one work by drilling a hole through the valve until the blank one gets here. Thanks.

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Hood is almost ready to be primed. I'm leaning more and more to painting it black. White just shows too much unwanted details lol.

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So I deleted the fuel pump assembly all together. The fuel pump sounds like it's flowing more easier than before. It used to sound like it was gurgling even before when I was running the turbo kit. However it was still bogging in 3rd and a lot in 4th with a lot of back fire at deceleration. when I got back into the shop and revved it, it blew out a lot of black smoke. I guess those coils and spark plugs we got from the junk yard were junk.

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Hood has been primed and is gonna be painted as soon as it dries.

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The problem you are going to run into now is you aren't going to be using the other side of the gas tank. The tube that attached at the bottom is what sucked the fuel from over the saddle. You could toss another pump in the passenger side and "T" them together though

I was thinking of doing that when I figure out the bogging issue. But the hose is still connected to the main bucket so it should siphon the fuel right? Was the assembly I just removed used the fuel pump to suck fuel from the other side as well? I'm just trying to understand the concept here lol.

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Just did a bit of googling and it seems that the green piece I removed (I guess it's called a jet pump?) Is used to suck the fuel from the other side. I'll probably throw the stock fuel pump in the other side then.

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It will not siphon the fuel without the inner bucket.

In a simplified explanation, Yes, It uses the fuel pump assembly to help suck the fuel from the other side. If you remove the inner basket, you remove the parts needed to make it work.

The hood is installed and I'm really not feeling it lol. I guess I'll live with it until I'm about to install the Supercharger then I'll figure out how to make the throttle body and intake pipe sit lower in the engine bay.

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Anyway, I was able to finally hook up my AFR gauge and it turns out it's actually running really rich (9:1 AFR) which causes it to bog. Probably because I'm not running any o2 sensors but that's easily fixable with a tune. Better rich than lean I guess at least I know the fuel pump is working properly.

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Been awhile guys. We've been having issues with the power steering pump going out and cutting belts. First time it broke in less than 5 miles because of no oil going through it (stupid I know lol). Second time we added an oil reservoir but some debris got stuck in the reservoir causing it to break again.

I've been driving it for over 150 miles now with no issues. Well except for the clutch slipping at anything above half throttle in all gears except 1st and 2nd where it just spins the tires. Time to save up for that new T56. Enjoy the video and sorry about the quality, it was compressed when it was sent to me.

https://youtu.be/Gksm8-JSdEM

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Car sounds great! I have a dumb question,,,,, why do you have a PS pump???

Because I can't delete it without fabricating a pulley bracket to replace it. I will in the future. Here is the belt routing diagram to have an idea. It's labeled vane pump.

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This sounds so ridiculously incredibly awesome!! :wub::wub::thumbup:

how is the build? love that you did something that is not the normal

Just recently started doing a minor make over.

I was going to custom make a new intake manifold for proper hood fitment but then decided to modify the stock resin/plastic one. Will post the final results when it's done.

I'm also going to redo the cooling pipes and hoses and add a high point to be able to bleed all the air bubbles properly.

I order a Clutch Masters FX725 Twin Disk clutch. Should arrive here any day now. I'll have to redrill the flywheel and hopefully it holds the additional torque.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e628f23d64.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5478b1b26c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0686183236.jpg

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Nice build. Total price in with all the parts?

Thanks. Engine and all of the required parts along with it was about $7k. This includes the whole engine assembly, harness, ECU, throttle body/pedal, sensors, etc.

I would say the labor and fabrication was at most $5k for the mounts, transmission adapter, oil pan, shifter relocation, fuel system, exhaust, etc.

I did the wiring myself but the CAN BUS translator was $1000 with lifetime support and it was worth it for the amount of shipping and chips Gerald (the guy who made the translator) had to make and troubleshoot.

Of course there were some extra costs like the twin disk clutch and modifying the intake manifold and figuring out the cooling system but that's always expected in a one of kind swap.

I will be updating this thread shortly once the car has it's final (hopefully) hood made and properly tuned.

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any updates on this build?

I got the hood done and the latest CAN translator makes the dash work like factory. Only thing missing or not working properly is the cruise control. The twin disk clutch is a bitch to daily so I haven't been driving it much lately but I did take multiple +400km road trips with it including bumper to bumper traffic.

I just retired my truck from racing and the 86 will be my main race car from now on. T56 coming this summer hopefully and will be heading to the track by the end of the year. I still have a lot planned for this thing.

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Is that a total re-do on the hood?? Looks great!

This is actually the third attempt lol. Looks better from this angle.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9604a11921.jpg

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Did you get the T56 installed? I'm interested in doing a 1UR swap and was curious what bellhousing, adapter, flywheel and clutch you used with the T56.

Wow!

Amazing thread. I have a 2010 Crewmax with Crawford longtubes & OvTune, I can't imagine the rightnow torque you have.

How is the balance affected?

Nice one. Some numbers about this build?

-Curb weight
-0-60
-60-120
-1/4 mile
-whp
...

@BRX Dude, this was one heck of an awesome thread to read!!! Super freakin enjoyed the process and the result-- that video and hearing it rev up was golden!!

Thanks brother! You just made me want to update this thread, a lot has been done to the car since my last update and I've got time to spare so here we go :)

I'll try to keep this in chronological order but it's been more than 2 years so some stuff might be out of order.

A few months after posting my last update I got a used f-body T56 that was installed in a 2nd gen GMC Sierra. I dropped off the transmission at the shop. On my way to the shop the next day in the 86 the stock transmission finally blew up lol. I lost 3rd and 4th.

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Due to the 3UR bellhousing being smaller than a chevy V8, we had to go with a clutch that is smaller in diameter. Ended up going with a McLeod RXT 1000. We had to remove the starter gear teeth from the included flywheel and trim it down. The bolt holes were filled and then redrilled to match the 3UR crank bolt pattern.

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Here is the adapter between the chevy bellhousing and the 3UR along with a very simple "crossmember" for the transmission. It was literally an 8mm steel plate with holes lol. We also welded the u joint/slip yoke to the driveshaft and balanced it. The clutch master cylinder was recently installed in the GMC truck so we retro fitted it to work with the stock pedal.

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We had to adjust the shims behind the TOB a few times to get proper clutch pedal engagement and all seemed fine but it kept popping out of 4th gear and sometimes 3rd. We initially thought it was the old transmission acting up so we took it apart and found a few pieces missing here and there. I kept reading about the aluminum fork bending in old T56s so I got upgraded parts for it from tick performance hoping it would solve the issue with no luck.

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After the rebuild we came back thinking it was the adapter out of alignment but I ran out of funds at the time and decided to spend it on small stuff here and there. The car was very much drivable, I just couldn't decelerate in 4th without it popping out.

Anyway, I got an MGW shifter and modified it to sit in the right location along with a new Raceseng shifter and a reverse lock-out delete kit from RDE.

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Meanwhile it was summer and I was struggling with coolant temps again. I already had a bigger radiator with 4 fans total but it still kept overheating when it's over 40c degrees outside. We all thought it was simply a capacity issue so I installed another radiator where an intercooler usually is. Not the greatest idea but wth. It made a huge differnce as it no longer overheated while driving but as soon as I was stationary for 5 minutes it would heat soak. It's not my daily driver so I just kept driving it at night and waited until winter. I don't have final pics of the radiator, you guys have to trust me that mount with the jank welding wasn't finalized lol.

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to be continued in the next post: