Saw the same video. What he was trying to say was it's only a 5bhp increase but a higher percentage of the cars power makes it to the wheels after all the revisions to help the car make power more efficiently. So essentially it should make around 15wheelhp more than the pre-facelift

Going to be fascinating to see what direction custom tuning will go with the MY17's.

Either an MY17 will make even more power (vs an MY16) due to all the detail changes or end up in the same range due to a more efficient drive train leaving less headroom for more gains.

On topic though. I like my current one as it looks a lot cleaner in the engine bay the way it is now.

If I could find a way to modify the weather, id be overjoyed with my car. It doesn't like the south Florida heat at all. Lol

I have a $500 gift certificate from Subaru that expires February of next year. I already purchased everything before I got it. So, I want to add this intake and possibly exhaust manifold to my manual. Does anyone know if I'll need any extra parts for the intake manifold? I have a K&N Typhoon on there now. And nothing to spend this money on, unless I buy another HyperBlue stitched steering wheel have, just in case something happens to mine. Part number would be a great help. Thanks everyone.

Same concern here.

I have a 2013 MT FRS and thinking to swap the red manifold on 2017 model.

Anyone know whether it is a direct replacement?

.

I wouldn't replace a manifold for just 5HP gain and that is not even proven that 5HP gain is due to new manifold. Saving money to do the supercharger upgrade makes more sense to me. Edelbrock comes with its manifold and JRSC doesn't need manifold change anyway. Besides I still like the FR-S/monogram/GT86 headlights and front bumper more than the new model. I will just enjoy driving my car until then.

I just want to do it since I have a one time use $500 gift certificate from Subaru and nothing to spend it on. The manifold is about $250 I believe, so if I need any additional parts, I would have to order them at the same time, since it's use it all or lose it. Plus, I already have all of their optional accessories that I'm interested in. If I have enough left over from the certificate, I was thinking of ordering the exhaust manifold too. I know there's way better ones aftermarket, but free money is free money.

You know you can buy tires with these certificates too! :)

Maybe it is because of emissions?

I'm surprised we haven't seen a '17 on the dyno yet (not the marketing material graph.

Any day now! :cheers:

not that I have one, just saying it can't be much longer..

A dyno is not going to tell us a thing when we are looking at such small numbers. Contrary to popular belief dynos are incredibly inaccurate and the variation on even the same car can be in the 10s of hp/torque even if done on the same day. The only way a dyno would have even a little value is if it was a side by side with an older car. Even then it would have to be a brand new (or equal mileage car) and done within an hour or so of the 17. Anything else may just as well be a random number.

This is assuming that the difference in power is very small and falls inside of a margin for error. If you have a 17 and 16 tested at the same time on the same dynamometer the results would definitely be valid if the 10-15hp moto san estimate is to be believed.

I think more people are interested in seeing if the gain is greater than 5, but if it is only 5 than you are absolutely correct.

I've posted somewhere, but answer is almost yes. You need to drill bigger hole on ECU bracket, but other than that, it's direct fit.

Yup. If the '13 and '17 make the 'same' power on the same aftermarket header, that would kill any incentive to get the new car later on for me.

I'm betting the power is roughly the same and mostly due to the header and RED INTAKE MANIFOLD ZOMG :P. The 15HP delta people are quoting is mostly due to gearing changes I would bet.

This is correct. new intake won't gain 5hp. It's due to other component that make MY17 feels like gaining more power.

If I wanna upgrade the intake manifold, I want this... but of course, it's impossible to get one Orz
http://clicccar.com/wp-content/uploa...06-618x412.jpg

What exactly is this that I'm looking at??

GRMN86 :thumbsup:

I have been enlightened!:respekt:

I can run a base line at PTUNING but let me finish break In I'm only 300 miles in lol.

So far it's been lifted, checked for its new tech by local shops and driven hard by an editor.

My car is turning into the community car lol

Hey Zaku, in the Redline review, he mentions a different clutch and transmission feel compared to the old one. Is this your finding as well?

Also, was there anything the shops found that was not noted in the MY2017 changes document?

I wouldn't expect anything other than at least a comparison of a stock 13-16 run from the same shop. Most shops that would be interested in checking out the '17's more than likely already have plenty of stock runs to compare to.

I agree that numbers can vary, but a lot of that talk is exaggerated. Same dynos usually put out similar numbers within margin of error, as long as elevation isn't drastically changed. We can still get a good idea of changes, such as powerband and if the marketing dynos showing higher low end torque are reflected in real world results. A beefier powerband would be very evident on any dyno regardless of number output.

Yep. You are looking at it realistically and understand what those numbers represent though. Many here will just look at the straight numbers and figure way higher, the same or (heaven forbid) lower. The numbers game is a huge trap for those that do not know or care how they are actually applied to or used by the car.
People put far to much trust in dyno numbers when one car could be taken to 5 different places and have 5 radically different readings. When trying to see changes and tuning one car, on one machine, they are a great tool but when trying to be used as a general overall statement they fall way short.

I feel the same way, and agree with the review. That's how I feel also, I'm guessing it's the gearing and the way things are set up its definitely a lot smoother on the new car.

Nope not yet so far it's only been a visual inspection. I'll have more info once I reach 1000 miles where I can maybe do another video and have a look at everything performance related.

It's probably because the revised chassis components got stiffer and it's putting the power down a lot better than the old car.

Yeah, but I already have Bridgestone Pole Positions and Blizzaks for the winter on the factory wheels. (although they will probably never see the snow)

It seems like quite a bit of work to do.

The part numbers are:
14001AC540 for the Intake Manifold
14035AA720 for the gaskets, you need 2
And I couldn't find a part number for a throttle body gasket, unless you can use the same one as the MY16.

It just seems like a lot of work to go through for virtually no gain. I think I may pass. If anyone else finds out anything more, let me know.

Definitely! I wonder if the change is due to similar reasons Mitsubishi changed theirs on the Evo X from metal to plastic. They realized plastic was ok at stock heat levels. However, swapping to metal was always one of the first recommendations from tuners as the heat was too much for the plastic when pushed beyond stock hp. We all know these cars run hot stock, so maybe this is more of a preventative measure.

Maybe they had a lot of leftover diffs and engines from production lines, and instead of scrapping them, they decided to give the new stuff with slightly better performance to the higher performing manuals and their more performance oriented (generalized statement, but mostly true) owners.

I'll bet that next Model Year, the autos will get most (if not all) of the changes after the existing supply is gone. Plus, if it IS a noise issue, they'll have fixed it for the auto in a year.

Subaru/Toyota isn't a Mom & Pop operation that has extra engines kicking around that they need to use up. The materials flow is carefully planned and scheduled so they have just what they need when they need it so there is no warehouse of spare engines sitting forgotten someplace.
I am not privy to production numbers but bet there are 5 or 6 ATs built for every MT. The MT elitists can believe what they want but the AT is starting to rule the car market and even these cars are not immune to it. The difference is more probably related to emissions concerns with the ATs and is not some conspiracy to reward MT drivers.

Peeing against the tide, man.

Ya, I frequently do. On occasion I have managed to push the tide back though.

No way, I read about a year ago that it was 60-70% sales in favor of the manual. While that may not be accurate, it's hardly the 10% you are claiming.

My number could of course be way off since I pulled it out of my ass based on the mix I have seen in Canada but it doesn't change the fact that the MT is a rapidly disappearing feature.

For sale listings show a 55%MT / 45%AT split. This car's customer base is definitely MUCH more manual focused than your typical 'performance car'.






http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...cd381c7315.jpg

-Josh

For the FR-S, 52% were sold with a manual. For the BRZ, it was 70%.

http://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/2...on-doomed.html

There we go! My ass was wrong again.
My point remains unchanged.

Yeah MT is a dying breed for sure. :(

These cars do run very hot. Maybe an OEM Forester XT oil cooler is the way to go.

10 years ago I had a tough time trying to even find a CPO E46 with a stick shift. All the dealer lots had were automatics despite what I always heard about Bimmer drivers being stick shift elitists.

Haha I guess that might still be true relative to the other 2 luxury German marques. A lot of sporty Audi and MB-AMG models don't even have a manual option anymore since people hardly bought them.

At least with the next-gen 86, it will definitely be offered with a manual since the take rate was so high on the first-gens.