Liquid Gasket Threebond 1280B
 

Ok, I'm on the correct computer now and fortunately, I've saved the page as a bookmark. It WAS Tcoat...



https://i.ibb.co/J53Z4Tk/Tcoat.jpg


...who gave the following link; https://www.ft86club.com/forums/atta...1&d=1413834741


Note in pdf above, page 4; re-seal using Liquid Gasket ThreeBond 1280B (Part No. SOA5499100) or equivalent


Now, a couple final questions, before handing this off to my tech ;)

1. Does the chain cover have a gutter for the sealant to reside in, or are both mating surfaces flat?

2. Once the sealant is applied, what is the recommended time to wait for the sealant to properly cure before mating the surfaces? I read somewhere it's 24 hours, but then a tech on YT said a couple hours... :iono: (Robotic machines use a uv light to speed it up) Thanks

Where are all the possible places oil can leak from the FRS/BRZ?
 

If you follow the FSM, there is an area for the sealant, but you do not apply it into that area. I believe that is an area where a lot of techs that where doing the spring recall screwed up.



I used TB1217H when I did mine. Using a good caulking gun will give you better control when applying the sealant. Make sure you have a nice no slip work surface to place the timing cover, makes it a lot easier. The FSM has application instructions for the sealant, but you have like 10-15 minutes once you apply it to the cover, to get the cover on and torque it IIRC.



There are a bunch of different length bolts. Trace the timing cover onto a piece of cardboard and punch the bolt through the cardboard in it's location to keep track of it. The perimeter bolts are 8mm, three inner bolts are 6mm. They have different torque specs.

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I would also go to the hardware store and get about 4 5in long 8mm bolts and grind the heads off to use as guides. Will make getting the cover on a lot easier.

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As weaknesses in the process definition came to light, those documents were updated to close those gaps. Keeping your first question in mind, I think you'll find it interesting to note the changes.

Very informative - I like the last idea with the bolts ground off - great idea. I was wondering how I was going to do this with just two hands

I used the OG instructions and I can tell where others could have mistaken the way the sealant is supposed to be applied. In some areas when doing the cam carriers and head covers I used red marker to indicate where not to apply it so I didn't get it somewhere you were not supposed to. The guy who originally put the engine together put it on oil passages too. I guess it was all moot since that was the engine that kicked a rocker and exploded at the Ridge :D

Seeing that slop would still irritate the hell out of me. Your dowel technique is brilliant, BTW.

It was pretty bad. Especially after the guy told me “I don’t build crap engines.” He worked at a Toyota dealership in Willsonville, wonder if he’s still there.

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I have my moments lol

Asshole

Did you decide not to use the rocker arm retainers?

Different engine, this one blew April 2020. I was waiting on my UOA to come back on my current engine to make sure it was healthy enough to use for another year. I will be putting the retainers in that engine in Dec/Jan along with a bent up Bluemoon oil pan baffle :D

My builder went with the Greddy baffle. I guess he liked the name better. I'm curious as to much the oil sloshes to one side in a high G turn. Maybe as a winter project, somebody can put a container of hot oil in a centrifuge and see how many G's it takes to move the oil away from the pickup.

I imagine it is a pretty high number. I think in most cases I see it in my car it is a sudden spike in G’s that is doing it. One track I don’t have it happen at all.

is there a printed form of the entire manual for this vehicle as in the link on your sig, or is it all only online?

I don't think anyone sells a printed manual. Sad. I would buy it.

I got the picture. Large print manual with lots of pictures - :thumbsup: