Follow up
 

To follow up on this thread, I haven't noticed any difference in handling. Two things to point out: 1) I don't autocross or track the car so I don't strain the frame much. 2) It handles as good as my old S2000 so I'm quite happy. Probably not due to the door stabilizers.

I'll leave it up to someone else who is competitive at autocross to give authoritative feedback.

They look nice. I wish there was a STI version, but I might buy it just for the bling...but $190 bling...idk.

These are made by TRD. They don't release parts unless they serve a purpose. The above videos do a pretty good job of proving what purpose they serve.

Oh really?
http://www.boomplustoys.net/images/t...lar%20Cap2.JPG

Yes really.

TRD claims no performance advantage from that gas filler cap.

But TRD does claim a performance improvement from the door stabilizers, so you best believe it does improve it. Otherwise why would they have bothered to develop it if it was just for looks, only to stick it in an area that is covered 99% of the time (unlike the always exposed gas cap). Just look at the videos posted above; you can clearly see the flex in doors.

;)

Random question, does anyone happen to know if Toyota cars all use the same door latches? I want a set of these for my MR2 but the ones listed on the internet as fitting the MR2 cost more for some odd reason. If possible I'd like to get the ones for the FRS from Japanparts for 130 USD. Steep price but considering that my car stripped a door latch assembly's bolt threads from door flex, it just might do the trick. The pictures all look exactly the same to me so I get the feeling this is probably the case...

Just make a shim yourself

So this was a nightmare install for me and I wanted to share my experience for anyone else about these bastards.

As everyone says, the only hard part is getting the damned door latch bolts out, which are glued in with blue loctite.

I bought an impact driver like in op's instructions just for this job. It did absolutely nothing. Maybe I suck using it, I don't know, but I couldn't do shit with it. I hammered away at that driver and got absolutely nothing.

I ended up putting the bits in my electric impact wrench and trying to get them off that way.

It was partially successful. I managed to get the first three bolts out, but only by destroying all 3 of my Phillips head impact screwdriver bit.

I was left with one bolt still in and had to improvise. I tried hammering the flat head bits into the bolt, then using the impact driver, and nothing.

Eventually I just bought the biggest phillips screw driver I could find, attached some vice grips for leverage, and just muscled that bitch out.

If I had to do it over again, I would have just done this from the beginning.

I also had issues tightening the replacement torx bolts since the loctite was in the grooves. It takes a lot of torque to get passed all the loctite in the threads.

If you run into problems like I did, some words of wisdom:

- Don't use the impact wrench, it's way too much torque and if you're lucky, you'll just destroy your bit and bolt while loosening it. If you're unlucky, you'll accomplish nothing and have a really good chance of slipping and scuffing your paint.

- If you have just one bolt stuck, put the microfiber towel under the hanging old bracket so you don't mess up your paint while you work the last bolt. I failed to do this and now have some unslightly scuffs near my new TRD bling.

- If you have problems with door alignment after install, don't worry. You can almost certainly fix it. The piece of metal that you screw the torx bolts into that's inside the door is pretty flexible; it's easy to adjust it (I used a screwdriver in the door latch to twist it back to shape after I deformed it trying to get those loctite bolts out). Also, make sure that the new latch is pushed as far into the frame (towards the interior) as possible when you tighten it down, if it's sitting further out, it may make your doors not flush.

Good luck, the good news is it's a great install and if you know anything about how this car feels without them the improvement is obvious with hard cornering, MUCH STIFFER.

Regular places sold these for $250, but since I found out that I could get them for ~$140 including shipping, I decided to pull the trigger.

The installation:
I also tried to use an impact driver to loosen the bolts, and was unsuccessful. To be fair, it was my first time using an impact driver so maybe I wasn't using it properly.
I was successful using a regular 3/8 ratchet with a phillips bit. It wasn't that difficult.
The most difficult operation IMO was installing the torx bolt into the striker. It was cold outside, I had no gloves, you have to hold the damn slide all the way back throughout the entire process. The instructions stated to be careful of not letting the slide go while installing the bolts since you could damage the finish on it... I chipped some of that finish off so you can see a black spot on the edge.

Result:
In my case, the driver's side door seems to require more force to close now. Passenger side, not that different. Performance wise, didn't feel a lot different, but wasn't expecting night and day difference anyway.

Where do you find it at this price ??

You can google "buy ZN6 ドアスタビライザー"

I bought mine from an individual seller, so proceed at your own risk.

Japanparts has them for even cheaper.

https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/40799

Much stiffer? How was this measured?

Butt dyno

It was much stiffer in his butt dyno.

My butt dyno loves it stiff.

Hello folks.


Firstly thanks for the guys who posted the diy pics and tips. They were very handy.


I got a set of these door stabilizers and did the installation DIY in 10 minutes. Only tool required was a socket wrench with a torx head. Bolts were solidly fastened with Locktite but a little snap on the bar and they came loose. Doors lined up and closed perfectly with no hassle at all.


The result is actually quite nice. When the car slides the steering accuracy to control the slide is a fair bit more precise, especially at the end of the slide when you want the car to bite a again there is less whip (lag) and you can get the car pointed where you want. I enjoy a bit of autocross and lots of hooning and this was my first mod and well worth the money.

This looks like an awesome functional mod. Why are these parts not available through TRD in America?! I'm all for anything that will stiffen a chassis!!! Roll cages are great for this but so impractical in a street car

I went to the Toyota Dealer local to me and they couldn't find anything remotely close to the provided part numbers. :/ I wish they were only $100. I can't really justify spending any more than that.

I recently installed these door stabilizers. Got them off japan-parts.

I tried using an impact driver with a 40oz hammer (used a 24oz first but no luck) on my driver side and it took some convincing to knock it loose. I tried the same with the passenger side and didn't have any luck. I went with a socket wrench with the philip bit off the impact driver since it was a snug fit and I got it off without any problem. I can't speak for another car but on my car a socket wrench with the correct bit was the trick.

After the install, I had to realign the latches. My driver side was in on top and the passenger was out on top. My guess is due to twisting the bolts loose as it follows the same direction as loosing it. My advice is to use the torque spec TRD recommend for the torx screw (17 lb) as after I align the door and went over the spec a bit, my door would get out of align and it caused a few small scratches.

Maybe 50

Its $115 plus $25 shipping on https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/40799

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0c1BuzJhZuo"]TRD Door Stabilizer - YouTube[/ame]

uno mas

'door stabilizer' is about all I understood..................but pictures help :popcorn:

AE86 TRD Door Stabilizer Review: https://youtu.be/YjANtd****E
Edit... For some reason you can't link to this video, but it comes up to in searches.

Lol bolts came out first try with a breaker bar. Thanks for the write up OP!

Got em.

Got this recently, can anyone tell me what size phillips bit head am I suppose to get?....

I could find one that's that big... so I tried with a flat head.... ya.....not a good idea.

please help thanks!

Kind of want

so you telling me if i install these door things..i will have better handling?

Best purchase I made on Frs next to otf.

does anyone have the carson toyota part number for ordering ?

did anyone else have a slight door misalignment? installed mine yesterday and my driver side door is slightly off than normal compared to my passenger side door.

Carson Toyota part number? I think the part number is the same everywhere. FT86SF has them for sale, not sure how it compares to dealership prices though.

Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk

My driver side door came out perfect, but my passenger door is slightly "off". I have not found a solution yet. Since it's on the passenger side I don't notice it every day, so it doesn't bother me as much. I'd be very happy to hear about a solution, though.

Didn't see it mentioned in the thread.

The Torx are T-40, if you don't already have a set you can get the right one.

Just got these not too long ago. Having trouble with the body side striker bolts. Have tried using 3/4" ratchet with socket bits, bits with breaker, and even a manual impact driver...But with no luck. Anyone had to use an electric impact driver to get these bolts out?

I had to use an electric impact, managed to get them out but stripped one in the process, not a big deal since I won't need them again. Passenger side door is slightly off with alignment but I don't want to go through the hassle of trying to get it right.

Hardly seems worth it.

Somebody needs to make it without the TRD logo and that will knock it's price in half. Then just say it's to make the car door close nicer/quiter
and not say it's a performance piece and that should knock it down another half. Then we will be where it should be in the first place, maybe $30-40.
I'm tempted to do like somebody else said in here and just make a DIY wedge/shim. I mean if I am reeaallly bored one day since this is really stretching it for "performance".
It's only after watching that video of the car door kind of moving a little that makes this sort of an attractive mod but in reality we all know that there is no way a human
driving inside the vehicle can detect if that thing was on the door or not. It's like getting a 5 hp bump from an air filter and saying you can feel it on your butt dyno.