The Ca-Fi stays in a standby mode that is user-configurable. I have mine set to 2 days, no problem. You can opt to turn that off completely and you'll just have to cold boot it each time you start the car, until you get a better battery that is.

Mines set on cold boot, I don't understand why it's drawing so much or is a .68 amp draw normal on an off car?

Spec is <70mA

My multimeter is on dc 10a. So .68 is 680 miliamps isn't it?

Unless my understanding is wrong, yes .68 amps would be 680 milliamps. Maybe the 10a means you have to step it down by a factor of 10, so it's really 68 mA? Not an electrics guy, sorry.

Just checked another thread - Subaru apparently told another owner that there really isn't a published spec for our car, but most of these cars should be < 70 mA. They tested another car on the dealer lot and it was 150 mA, Subaru said that was a normal condition at this time. So is it <70 or 150? Guess they don't really know either. Here's the link to that post: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=38

But yeah, 680 seems high.

I had a similar issue, mine was due to the trunk not closiing properly and the light staying on.

I replaced the trunk light and dome light to a low power LED's

During the issue I measured the power consumption to get a better understanding on what was beeing consumed

Off , 12.70 V, 600mA
30 sec, 12.74 V, 140mA
60 sec, 12.79 V, 14mA
90 sec, 12.79 V, 13mA

So you need to wait for 60 seconds to get the true power consumption.

You did not say what year.

I have a 2015 with about 4500 miles on it. I had not driven it for about 5 days. Went out to go to work and the battery was dead. Not even enough energy to light up the clock.

Had Toyota Road Side Assistance so off to the dealer it went. They got it started with a jump and then measured the battery and the charging system. It seemed to be fine, with the battery showing 12.41 volts when the car was off. But the tech was not satisfied and brought out an old "carbon pile" [as he put it] tester and the battery failed miserably, dropping to 8.3 volts under load.

In short, it "looked like" it was good until it was asked to do some heavy lifting at which point it failed. They replace the battery under warranty.

He also measured the 'no key in the ignition' current flow. It would bounce between 22ma and 26ma. The bounce was the security LED turning on and off.

As a side note, when I got the car back they had reset the clock to the correct time :thumbup:.

Arvid

Mines a 2015 as well, I ended up buying the battery someone suggested earlier in this thread and it's working wonders.

I think Panasonic batteries are super cheap.

Never had a good one.