Get some decent snow tires, wax it before it snows, and clean it frequently if there's salt on the road.

This car was a blast to drive in snow! With some Blizzaks, I was able to conquer ~2-4 inches of snow easily. I'm in the "it's a cheap sports car, not a Ferrari" crowd. Don't deny yourself all the winter fun to be had. I haven't driven many cars, but I feel safer in this car compared to the Honda Pilot because i'm more confident in how the car handles and reacts (but you can't beat physics)

I would say just alternate between beater and FR-S. Drive the FR-S on light snow days or dry days. Drive the beater on heavy snow days or when there is constant snow and salt. You can minimize salt contact with weekly washing at a local car wash and you can still enjoy the occasional parking lot snow drifting.

First off thanks for everyones input! Huge help...

I love drifting so the snow drifting is a huge pro for me and I don't think I would insure 2 cars if I were to do the beater - I would probably take it off the road as I don't really want to pay car payments AND insurance on a car that sits in the garage.
I like the idea of a decent beater that will actually last a bit instead of a POS that will last 4 months although a good point is made about always having soooomething to do (oil change, etc. etc.)

I'm thinking the only way I'll go the beater route is if I find a really good deal for one that comes with snow tires so that I can afford to either keep the FR-S through the winter for the fun days or if it's cheaper than winterizing.

Anyone who's used snow tires have a recommended brand/tire? I've heard Blizzaks are good but I'm not sure of any of the others

I DD drive mine because it's a company car, but I would highly suggest the following if you really plan on keeping the car around for the long haul:

-Winter tires (a given)
-Undercoating, and not the traditional kind. If you're close to the Canadian border, drive up and go to a Krown location. If you're not, order some fluid film for the boxed sections (rocker, inside the cross member, etc.) and AMSOIL HDMP for everything else that gets hit with salt spray.

I've been undercoating my cars religiously, and have always had great results. Also, as a chassis engineer, let me assure you that anyone who tells you modern cars have enough undercoating to keep them rust free is completely, and utterly wrong. I won't go into the details..but let's just say you should consider aftermarket, oil based (the traditional tar and heavy undercoating you buy in stores hardens and seperates from the base metal, can trap moisture and actually cause rust- We see this in Canadian vehicles a lot) undercoating and good snow tires to be safe.

Let me know if you have any questions!

Aaaand now the windshield on the beater is going to need replacement before winter.
+1 for the beater!

I have never understood the argument of "get a winter beater!" The only thing that does is beat money out of your wallet, unless of course you have the money that doesn't bother you. For me, I am always a 1 car owner because the cons always outweigh the convenience and use of the beater.

- buying the beater
- paying insurance on 2 vehicles
-maintaining what is more than likely a high mileage car
-space for 2 vehicles
-dissatisfaction of driving an old run down car for the winter

OR

-buy winter tires and get several years of use out of them.

This thread helped for sure. There's some valid points here I didn't even think about
I was on the fence about storing the car for the winter. I have no indoor storage. Outside w/ car cover isn't an option I would be tortured thinking about the paint all winter. Insurance/car cost for the beater... I'd rather wash it once a week and still drive it around.
Winterize it is. A garage is a requirement when I look to find a new place now haha

I have been using a "winter beater" for several years now and I'd like to give my opinion on this argument. First off, you can buy top tier winter tires for a car and still have issues with it because of ground clearance. My Jeep eliminates this problem. My Jeep allowed me to get home one day during a blizzard where a foot of snow fell within about an hour. A low to the ground car would not have been able to get through that. Another major factor to consider when you get a winter beater is what else you will use it for. My Jeep is not only useful in the winter, it's great for carrying large packages, having more than 1 person in the vehicle, and for going on roads that I wouldn't dare take my FR-S. You also get a vehicle that you can use if the other one is in the shop, since my last vehicle was frequently in the shop and they didn't offer loaner cars it saved me from dealing with a rental car.

Yes, it does have some extra costs to it, but at the end of the day you get a second vehicle which you can use for a variety of things.

I drove my car all last Winter. I didn't do anything special to it though:
Blizzaks + 16" wheels + underbody washed frequently (maybe once a week or every other week).

I'm sure everyone purchased this car for one reason or another. For me, this is my only car. This is my daily driver that gets me to and from work with an 80mile commute. This is a car I want to ENJOY and not garage it for most of it's life.

There is nothing wrong at all with storing it to keep it perfect. But honestly, I would rather drive and enjoy the car as much as I can while I have it.

The car still looks brand new. The snow driving isn't bad at all with TC on and the blizzaks. And I got to enjoy a little low speed snow drifts here and there.
:burnrubber:
Just make sure you keep her washed of salt! The winter tires are all you need. (unless you don't mind driving a beater, and insuring more cars. Each way has it's benifits.. and for me, driving the FRS worked just fine)

Over a ten year span, a winter beater will not pay for itself in the overall sceme of things. A 10 year old frs winter driven or not, is not going to have 5, 000 between the two. It will cost more to run any winter beater. The other thing to consider is that winter sucks enough, why make it worse by driving an unreliable POS.

Buy the frs and amortize the thing to zero over 10 years. Enjoy in the meantime.

You will have more fun in the winter in the FRS than a beater. Period. Drive it you won't die with this car anyway.

Get good winter tires and oil/lube rust proof all the underbody fasteners.

Okay it seems like winterizing is the way to go...With some Blizzaks on the stock 17"s for me. I am really like everyone's suggestions as they are all valid and all good points.

I think the best way to "get a beater" is not to actually get a true beater and get a decent car for purpose B. Like the Jeep, any car that fits more people and perhaps AWD will be better for the not so perfect conditions that the FR-S may (or may not) struggle in. I don't think I Have the $$ for a car like that right now, as much as I think a perfect combo would be the FR-S and the EVO for winter mode :bow:

So how much should an underbody coating cost? I just switched dealers and am really impressed with the one I'm going to now, but don't want to pay more than I have to so what's reasonable? Any additional options I can look into to make it even more protected?
:thanks:

+1. My '07 FJ Cruiser was paid off long ago so won't be a financial burden when the FR-S is in storage with comprehensive insurance only costing $15/month. Plus the FJC with it's BFG A/T's is nearly unstoppable in everything from deep snow to sandy beaches to mud. It's carried everything from bikes to dogs to fertilizer and could tow if needed. Just hose it out and go.

Obviously costs more than a typical beater but can sometimes be found for <$15K and have another 20+ years of reliable Toyota life left in them. Look for a December '06 production or later M/T, the only ones with full-time 4X4, Torsen and FF e-locker standard.

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/Cars-Tru...FJ%2520Cruiser

underbody coating costs? Anyone?

Any other helpful tips for winterizing?