I am surprised no one reccommends Castrol SRF. I know it is expensive but it last much longer and requires less bleeding. I have never had good luck with ATE.

Just switched over to the SRF this past weekend. But I went that route because that was the cheapest in my situation.. FREE :party0030:

If you can spring for it Endless fluid is the best but not sure how it will react with the OE seals.

That's my exact setup, it is well balanced.

Regarding the XPs, you do know they need a special bedding procedure along with either new rotors or rotors that have been used with ceramic based pads, right? You shouldn't put Carbotech XPs on your rotors that have been used with the stock pads.

The car is also my DD, and except a slightly annoying noise at low speed and copious amount of (wheel friendly) dust, it is no problem. There is plenty of cold bite.

SRF Has a higher wet boiling point than the endless, wet what is most important in my opinion. That is why people on SRF go whole track seasons without changing fluid or bleeding. Not that I would do it, but lots of SRF users go two seasons on it with only a bleed in between seasons.http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...strol-srf.html

That's pretty cool that the SRF can last that long and would definitely make it a good choice for most. However, the bulk modulus (resistance to compression) of the fluid is ultimately what will determine the performance and feel of the fluid. The endless has a higher bulk modulus than the SRF.

Because it's silicon based, if it's the dot 5 one I'm thinking of... it doesn't do well with DOT 3/4 fluids and regular brake lines...

I hate to say it, but the majority of those guys have more dollars than talent.

They'll bed just fine. Just expect to lose your first session to bedding, unless you can bed them, the night before.

Essex has nice instructions and theory on bedding new pads on their site. If I understand (disclaimer - not an engineering type), after bedding a pad and laying down a transfer layer, driving at street speeds erases the transfer layer through friction. A new transfer layer must be re-created by putting heat into the brakes through a bedding-in procedure. The cycle can be repeated. However, track pads will likely have undesirable characteristics when used on the street.

Do those procedures not apply with Carbotech pads? Why must the disc be resurfaced or new if stock pads have been used when changing to Carbotech pads?

Anyone know what happens if one DOESN'T follow their bedding procedures?

Will the world really end?

The reasoning being that the scoring on the rotors from the first set of pads will cause an uneven wearing of the pad, which will cause hot spots on the rotor, which in turn will wear both out faster and increase the risk of cracking discs. Not to mention non-optimal bedding.

I've always done it just to err on the side of caution, especially if you're going to be putting that much stress on the system. I'm no expert though.

Lol Mike, I know that. I think anyone who is a decently fast driver knows what it is like to be held up by rich guys in there 100k+ cars. They just want to run flat out. Back when my dad used to take his formula continental to the Porsche club events in Corpus for practice, the 11th fastest time of one particular weekend was a guy in a race prepped dodge neon. He said that guy was consistently in the top 15.

Lol I definitely learn the hard way that pads wear much quicker then they do on the Miata. I guess I'm trying to drive it too much like I do the miata too.

The noise doesn't bother me on the street. I think it's kinda funny when you stop at lights and everyone around you gets annoyed lol

[ame]http://youtu.be/cSqzS02fy3Q[/ame]

Video i put together from this passed week at Lime Rock.

Re bedding Carbotech pads/ need for new or resurfaced discs:



Are Carbotech pads unique, or is the theory the same for ALL pads?

Why don't other manufacturers recommend the same process?

Why, Why, Why?