Originally Posted by Bach415 (Post 943900)

Try changing to a different type of fuel/gas station then go back to the dyno to see if the problem still exist if the type of fuel/fuel content is the issue.

Originally Posted by Foobar (Post 943952)

Did you reset your ECU before you got your baseline dyno? If not, you may have to wait a while for the ECU to get used to the new tune. I think it's best to reset the ECU before each run if you're trying to do comparisons, no?

Originally Posted by FeaR-S (Post 944121)

with the 07 civic si made more power with 3" while the FR-S lost power. no tune just base before the 3" and returned a few days later and 3" lost had to be tuned to get back +1 lol :brokenheart: on E slightly different story.

Originally Posted by slowmo (Post 944433)

whats worrying me is that if the ecu is going into some safe mode or taking time to adapt then FI tune would be a nightmare

Originally Posted by slowmo (Post 945107)

Car is running smooth I think the ecu needed time to adapt with the new map

Originally Posted by slowmo (Post 943386)

... first of alk the car ran a base dyno map with an astonishing 169 whp max power...

Originally Posted by slowmo (Post 943386)

..the car did the 1st tune run and I was shocked car dropped 13whp. 2nd run dropped 19whp and it kept going on until the dyno kept reading 145WHP!!!

Originally Posted by ramiram1984 (Post 944760)

Sometimes I feel a tune is just some conspiracy...

Originally Posted by mad_sb (Post 945190)

A for learning..... Stock IAM is .7, if the tuner set's it to 1.0 you will get full advance on the first pull ( a few degrees more timing ). Other than IAM, there are the long term fuel trims (these should be reset with each flash or ecu reset). Yes those two things combined could add up to 15whp or more, but from what you describe, it was pulling more and more timing each pull due to learned knock retard so whatever direction your tuner was trying to go was the wrong direction.

It would help if you posted dyno plot and you can send me the data logs if you want an impartial opinion.


Was this the map you drove in on or was it the base flash provided by the tuner?



Were theses multiple pulls on the same tune file, or did he make a pull, change the tune, flash the tune then make another pull?

If they were back to back pulls, you lost power each time either due to learned knock retard or excessive temps or both.

Originally Posted by slowmo (Post 948604)

Thanks

Here is a video of the dyno run

Tuned Subaru BRZ 2013 - YouTube