So let me gth this straight. The 2 door speakers are powered by the external amp.. The rear AND dash speakers are powered by the head unit?

Yeah. You can see for yourself. Reach under the trunk mat and unplug the amp, and you can hear all the treble coming from the dash and rear speakers.

Wow that is so shitty. That little 198 watt amp runs just those two speakers and it sounds really weak.

...wait,

@

so now you are saying that even the FSM is wrong? the rears are also driven by headunit?

maybe it's the 2 drivers (door and dash) are driven by amp and the tweeters are driven by the HU. because this seems to show 4 speakers driven by the AMP (as referenced in my first post)


http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c9/240sx_god/AV-5.jpg

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c9/240sx_god/AV-6.jpg

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c9/240sx_god/AV-6.jpg

STEREO COMPONENT AMPLIFIER is the amp in the trunk. F9 and E6 Front No. 1 Speaker Assembly are the front door speakers.

OK now I see,

H/U powers front stage (dash) and rear stage (tweeters in rear seats)

AMP ties into front stage signal wires for the door speakers...this is just so abnormal to my brain,

Why install an AMP to power 2 speakers in an 8 speaker car...

Yeah this is the first time I have seen it done this way. My guess is to make it compatible with different head units, since it could be either Scion or Subaru. The lower spec cars in Japan only come with the 2 door speakers, powered off the head unit (which is not included in Japan), with the option to upgrade to the 8 speaker system (what we have). If you had all 8 speakers powered off the head unit alone, the door speakers would be underpowered, so they added the external amp for the front speakers, and run it off the signal line so it works with whatever head unit is in there.

I went old school with the lc2i from audiocontrol. It's ok... But to be honest the cleansweep is the best thing out there nowadays, and it isnt that hard to install. There are a few threads on here that'll help you with wiring diagrams to know which wires you could steal a signal off of. Easiest thing might be to run your loc in the trunk off of the speaker signal that comes to the rear amp, and do your rca and full setup all back there. You could steal the remote off of the stock rear amp as well. I found a spot in the rear to sand and run my ground, so the only thing that you would need to run from the front is your power.

Deaden the doors, install some nice 2ohm 6.5s, replace the dash 4s and hpf with some 3.5s, and do a setup for an 8 in the rear and you'll be golden! You'll save money, and reap the benefits of your own labor :D

That sub will literally destroy your car. I wired a 12 mofo (the old mofo, not the sh!tty mofox) at 1ohm from my old thunderbird just for s&g, and everything in the car rattles. I thought the doors would fall off. The w7 is an absolute beast, so best thing is to stay away from that one. This car wasn't meant for thunderous bass, so my best advice is running an 8, or at most a 10 and calling it a day. I ran a pioneer 12 at 400w rms, and it's still way too much. My gain is non existent and the rear-view is unusable.

What is the wattage the head unit is sending per channel?

over 9000

The avatar explains it all like Clarissa.

A custom-made sub enclosure should run you only about $100-$400, actually. All-MDF on the low-end and a custom fiberglass enclosure on the high-end.


I have a 10W3v3-2, and it delivers plenty of thump, such that I needed amped aftermarket speakers to no be overwhelmed by the sub.

Once you start getting your own component items, kiss the OEM Audio system out the door. Those systems are specifically designed for the components they come with, NOT a mix and match of other items. Either go with a custom solution or the OEM Audio+ turn-key solution.