Ask Dave, he probably has some Yeungling in his fridge RIGHT now and I'm not about to share my bottle of Dogfish Head Miles Davis Bitches Brew with you.

Surprisingly I don't at the moment.. Leffe Brown, Sierra Nevada Pale Ale and some Henry Weinhard's Private Reserve currently.

So now that we're on to beer, is it safe to say your problems are solved?

BTW: when testing with the cooler bypassed and no bypassed, make sure you're testing at identical oil temps, most preferably identical-very-hot-oil temps.

(ノಠ益ಠ)ノ彡

I will not be sharing my allagash curieux either.

It's safe to say I haven't touched the car since I posted this thread ;)

Until I get to the track I won't see any high oil temps, they'll just be normal DD conditions. I want to either determine it's not an issue or fix it before I track the car :)

Using the second sandwich adapter I can add the temp gauge in (it's unplugged currently as I haven't dropped the pan to weld the bung in yet). Then I can swap the temp to the block and pressure to the sandwich plate and retest.

Depending on those results I can remove the oil cooler adapter and just run the spacer and gauge sender sandwich plate and get more data that way.

I'll try to add the additional sandwich plate in today. Accessing the pressure sender sucks so I might be too lazy to deal with that tonight. I don't rev high on the street so I can easily avoid the lower pressure above 7k. I'd love to see how another car compares to mine though. Someone else needs to install an oil pressure gauge :)

In that Honda Tech thread you link I have a post on the 2nd page of it about the oil temp gauge/sender I use. I personally like getting temps from the oil pan because that's where the oil is after it's done its job being cycled through the engine. Most folks tap the pan but using a drainplug sender is massively easier.

I like my temps from the pan and my pressure from the block (just before the oil makes it to its intended location). Like what you and I are used to on the Hondas. My oil pressure sensor is on the back of the block on the D16.

Just a thought.

That sensor would be nice actually if the Defi would use it.. sadly it doesn't. I wonder if someone makes a simple drain plug replacement with a tapped hole in 1/8"NPT for a sensor though.. will have to google :)

That or I'll weld a bung (or tap) the pan for temp which was the original plan.

I will install one next weekend if I get the gauge. I planned on using the extra spot on top of the block for the pressure and replacing the stock oil pressure switch with a temp probe.

I am a fan of using the pan for oil temp but I have a Fumoto valve and don't want to weld a bung in the pan. Greddy makes a 1/8 PT (not NPT) oil pan adapter.

I think the Defi sensor is technically 1/8" PT but 1/8" PT fits in the common US 1/8" NPT so I normally just look for 1/8" NPT. Never had a leak using that combo.

I'll look for that Greddy-likely-overpriced piece :)

@dwx or others, do any of you know the oil drain plug thread pitch?

Thanks!

So far I've seen M16-1.5 and M20-1.5 on the internetz.

M16-1.5 I can easily find adapters from Greddy, Autometer, Glowshift, etc.. M20-1.5... not so much.

I believe M16x1.5. M20x1.5 is the standard Subaru fitment, but I'm showing a GReddy drain plug for our models is M16x1.5.

I quote: "A couple of years ago (Late 2010) Subaru began using a new size engine drain plug on some models from an M20 to the smaller M16X1.5. If the wrench required to take off the plug is 14mm then your car needs the M16 plug."

Yeah the BRZ plug is smaller than the older ones, it is 14mm.

It is M16-1.5

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...11&postcount=3

we will be logging pressures at the track this weekend with the stock system then put our overkill solution back on and relog to see how everything changes.