These are great. If you can jack up two wheels at once, you can change tires in about 20 minutes.

If it takes you 20 minutes to swap wheels with a cordless impact (with adequate torque) and a decent jack capable of lifting one side of the car at a time, you're doing something wrong (or just taking your time and working very slowly).

With the rather inexpensive tools I have, I average 10 minutes to swap tires on my cars, if I have everything set out and am in a hurry, 6-8 minutes for all of them isn't that difficult. IIRC my personal record is between 5 & 6 minutes, including torquing the lugs with a torque wrench. Never used a torque stick, never felt the need.

I've used several different cordless impacts and jacks over the years, but my current impact is a 19.2V Sears impact (cost $100 -- I already had the battery and charger), and I use a Harbor Freight lightweight aluminum floor jack ($60). I have the Flyin Miata jack adapter, but usually use a hockey puck with a slit cut in it like I have for years.

That adapter is cool. With the FRS you can lift one side of the car with the jack at the front pinch weld so its not needed. But if anyone else has tips post up?

I use the adapter pad either way it helps distribute load so you aren't sitting right no the pinch weld with a flat surface.

I will pick one up thanks!

If you use an adapter (something like a puck), it's not a problem to lift the car from somewhere other than the factory jack points? I figured I'd punch through some soft part of the floor panel jacking it up from the middle.

Some cars you might be ok to jack in the middle of the car on the pinch welds, but some cars may start to deform if all the weight of one side of the car is in the middle. Since the pinch welds are reinforced at the jack points, and most cars are weight biased towards the front end, I just jack at the front jack point, and the whole side of the car can be lifted by just jacking at the front jack point, no need to jack in the middle of the car. My lightweight aluminum Harbor Freight jacks don't lift all that terribly high, but are still enough to lift one side of the car at a time. I have heard of people using a 2'-3' section of 2x4 and cutting a slot in the middle to fit around the pinch weld and using that in the middle since it would help distribute the weight better, but have never tried it myself.

@ABQautoxer or @dwx -
Trying to figure out which jack pad to get for my FR-S. Which model (1006 or 1007) will work with our cars? I noticed they're differently sized, and want to make sure:

A) it'll fit under a car with a 1.5" drop
B) the grooves in the pad are deep enough for the seams on our car

Thanks!

It is not a question of which fits the car, its which fits your jack. the 1007 is narrower and mean to sit on top of a smaller portable style jack's lifting point. The 1006 is completely flat on the bottom and can be used with most typical full size floor jacks, HF aluminum jacks, and lifts.

Ahhh....makes complete sense now. I assumed they were just different sizes, with different groove depths. Thanks for the clarification!!