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Anyone with aluminum rings have issues with them corroding or sticking to the hub/rotor? Any tips or tricks to keep them from corroding and sticking?
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I know this is an old thread, but what is the specific size I would need for the FRS. Specifically if im running XXR 527 18X8.75 +35 ?...Thanks
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You don't need them at all. I've got TONS of track miles, and even more street miles with RPF1's without rings.
If you want them to make putting the wheels on easier, just look up the center bore diameter of the wheels. You'll need them to fit the stock hub (56.15mm), and the wheel center bore. |
from what I have been reading is dont use hub rings for track. I have a set of aluminum rings I was planning on using this weekend with the rpf1's I just got.
Some say using the rings puts less stress on the wheel studs. True or not? |
Is it really that hard to hold the wheel with one hand and put the lugs on with the other?
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metal hubcentric rings cost like less than 20 for a set of 4. well worth the positives they bring rather than the negatives that COULD bring without them.
do you really want to shortchange yourself in the long run for just $20 dollars? |
Our wheels are lug-centric, not hub-centric. The lugnuts are what locate the wheel on the hub, not a plastic or aluminum ring. Any vehicle with tapered lugnuts is the same. Vehicles with flag lugnuts or bolts are hub-centric and it's a much bigger issue that the wheel and hub match diameter.
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I don't have hub rings on my aftermarket wheels, and you don't need them if you star pattern.
1. Screw on lugs loosely, star pattern. 2. Weakly tighten in star pattern. 3. Repeat 2. 4. Torque in star pattern. No vibrations noticed. :) |
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it distributes stress and forces across the hub/studs and the wheel/lugs evenly on bumps and dips rather than just the lugs/studs |
The answer to the question is NO... they serve no real purpose other than as an installation guide tool, just like that plastic splined tool for doing clutch jobs - makes it easier to get the job done. The torque holding the wheel to the rotor hub (via stud and nut) is the mechanism which fastens and positions the wheels to the hub, which is why it is important to make sure the two surfaces are clean and free of debris/rust when mounting wheels. I have never used centering rings and never will.
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Have you ever looked at how tiny the lip on the hub is, and how far offset it is from the centerline of the wheel? If you were to set a car down without lug studs in place, but the wheel properly lined up against the hub with centering rings, it would very quickly pop the wheel off the hub long before the full weight of the car was resting on the wheel. With conical seat lugs, the only way the ring takes any force is if the lugs aren't seated and torqued down enough, or if the studs are bending. |
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