Shaftworks coilovers 6k F, 9k R
20mm whiteline front 16mm rear bar 949 Racing 6UL 17x9 +40 245 40 17 A052 Still have to do alignment going to shoot for -3.5 to -4.0 camber front 0.0toe front 1/8" rear Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk |
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Will try to do the pan and pickup at some point this year too, forgot this car benefits from that. Quote:
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Idk maybe I’m crazy but there’s not a ton of weight reduction available in stx.
Coilovers for a couple pounds Wheels should be at least net zero to go to 17x9 Battery 15-25# Header/exhaust 10-30# Front brakes 20# Remove sound tube 2# Seat is only worth like 5# with the current minimum weight Light gas, li-ion shorai, and I still have oem cast brakes and I’m down to <2,600# with no driver. My car is like 2760# off the showroom floor, remove trunk junk and gas gets you to 2650ish, coilover header exhaust decent wheels and even a cheap pc680 15# battery will get you damn close to 2600, maybe 2620 if you don’t like being low on gas, after that it’s just drive it good imho. :iono: |
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https://youtu.be/Gw6StCSwXts https://youtu.be/_V-v2UW4Is4 |
OK - I'll jump in! Just did the lion's share of this work recently, so still doing some initial drives and planning an alignment/corner balance.
Suspension/Wheels/Tires: CSG Spec Tein Flex A. 6Kg/mm F/R; factory-spec/recommended preload Apex ARC-8 - 17x9 +42 Michelin Pilot Sport 4S - 245/40R17. Will likely go with something else (AO52, RE71RS) once these are done. Stock Sway Bars F/R SPL Endlinks F/R Drivetrain/Chassis: Whiteline Front Gearbox Mount Bushing Kartboy Rear Shifter Bushing Whiteline Rear Differential Mount Bushing Cusco Front Strut Bar - Type OS Cusco Power Brace - Rear Side Member Motul Gear 300 - 75W90 (transmission) Motul Gear 300LS - 75W90 (differential) Brakes: OEM Performance Package Brembos (calipers, lines, rotors, pads) Motul RBF600 Fluid Radium Master Cylinder Brace Engine: Jackson Racing Dual Radiator/Oil Cooler ARK DT-S Catback Motul 8100 Eco-Lite - 0W20 Etc: MTEC Shifter Springs MTEC Clutch Spring Raceseng Circuit 100 shift knob Alignment/Corner Balance: Front Camber: -2.8deg Front Toe: 0.0deg Rear Camber: -1.7deg Rear Toe: 1/16 total Cross-weight (RL/FR): 49.967 Cross-weight (FL/RR): 50.033 Driver weight: 180 lbs Not installed/removed: Whiteline 22mm FSB (contacted LCA when car was lowered) Whiteline 16mm RSB (removed to balance OEM front bar when coilovers were installed) Whiteline 18mm RSB (never installed) Whiteline endlinks F/R (removed with sway bars to keep package complete) Radium Strut Tower Brace (interfered with damping adjustment on coilovers) SPC Rear Lower Control Arm (never installed because of bushing/class incompatibility) |
What coolant is everyone running?
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--Bryan |
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I'd be very happy to be stand corrected since I was eyeing the Moroso baffle + Killer B pickup. |
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This is a clear case imho where the performance gain is practically nil and is yet another instance of outdated wording creating a gotcha that shouldn’t exist. Rulebook wording as of today: 14.10.A Oil pans, oil pickups, and differential covers may be modified or substi- tuted. Addition or modification of windage trays or crankshaft scrap- ers is not allowed. We could probably eliminate the windage tray wording that exists from a time when engines were designed to oil by the crank dipping into the oil pan which if you separate you can shed resistance and increase power, which is moot anyway because you could just run low on oil and get the same benefit at slightly higher risk. |
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However, note that my post says "baffled pan" not "add on baffle". I'm going to make my own and weld it to the pan below the pan rail. If you look at the available pans for other engines (including the WRX boxers) you can see several ways to do this, it's a fairly simple part. That solution is 100% legal for any engine. --Bryan |
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If you're really concerned about a protest, I'd suggest writing a letter to the SCCA and ask for clarification. |
FWIW I don't see how a bolt on oil pan would be illegal. Nor do I think a bolt in baffle like Tomei would be illegal.
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