Just wanted to clarify that the starter on my engine has an external solenoid. 6 months ago I asked David which starter I should order, he told me to order a k24 starter. So that’s what I did. That “k24” starter had an internal solenoid. The k24 starter with internal solenoid fit better than the recent starter I ordered that is supposedly k20 and has an external solenoid. After my modifications I never tried the k24 starter but I’m sure it will fit.

I did go ahead and clearance the trans just incase but I don’t think I needed to.

I grabbed a K24 starter because that is what I was told that they would be using, but I'm guessing grinding down the bellhousing was less desirable than just buying a K20 starter for them, so it is that much more plug and play.

I do see that your starter is external and looks like the K20 starter in their photo. I think I will be just using the K24 starter and making modifications. I'm not too worried about grinding down the inside of the bellhousing.

I just love how they have you remove spot welds and hammer the body but won't have you grind/file down the inside of the trans to clear the starter your probably already own.

Anyone else have the awesome issue where you’ll never be able to drain the oil because the drain bolt it basically touching the subframe? I posted a video on my Instagram.

What part of Cincinnati are you in @visbits? I’m in Hamilton, maybe once my cars done we can meet up or something, would be cool to check out the turbo setup
On yours.

I feel like of these questions and comments would be better served in the Kpower kit thread.

Did you email them, and did they get back to you? I had planned on driving a few miles down the street to Fujimoto’s distribution warehouse to see if I could pick up a valve for this build. I had one on my FA20, and I won’t be going back. I will probably hammer the subframe and do a valve if it will clear. Weird that they didn’t design that better. Even in their writeup it is clearly blocked by the subframe.

That's a pretty major oversight. I may look into a valve as well some hammering or notching as well.

That is terrible and totally unacceptable for a $800 oil pan.

I kinda forgot that this thread was just a general kswap owner thread and that the other is specifically for Kpower. Didn’t email them but David commented on my Instagram post and told me to email him. Not like he can do anything about it at this point. Oil pans on the engine, and the engines in the car. It’s not coming out unless I need to replace the clutch or if the engine blows. I’ll just get one of those oil extractor things To suck the oil out.

I don’t think a valve would work down there as there just isn’t any room between the current bolt and subframe. Best bet would be to install a new drain bolt. And maybe even a dipstick right there on the oil pan since our normal dipstick is pretty useless. Took me 3 minutes to install the dipstick. Just hits the baffling inside the pan.

Hammer a crucial part of your car?
Why not relocate it, especially if you have a tig?
Buy a bung, drill a hole, install bung, hold it in place with a smaller bolt and two washers,
spot weld it two or three places, remove bolt and run a bead around it or you can fuse it. Bolt and washers are not necessary but helps transfer heat if your a amateur tig welder.

They may have built the pan with a tube crossmember in the proto car.

http://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDyNrNw26y0

I already did hammer the subframe; we have to in the directions. Now, I'll just do it some more. The subframe already has bends and curves and holes. What is the difference between one more? It would actually be easier for me to cut, sand and MIG weld a recession in the subframe than for me to TIG weld the oil pan, but I don't really think it is necessary; I'll have to see. I'm not sure, but the current spot for the oil pan could be the low spot.

I kinda half-heartedly put up a post where I will keep track of mine. Waiting on the KPower kit to show up then I'll add more.

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=149422

For reference for this thread, these are the final numbers. Depending on what the new GR86 transmission proves to hold, I may do that or a CD009 or BMW transmission, and I will likely do cams, rods n pistons and at some point go back to the dyno to turn up the boost.

You literally addressed every concern I had about the platform..
Weight
Engine
Engine placement
(going to) double A arm
114.3

Awesome build!