Gotcha, thanks I was able to source the seal at a toyota dealership and installed the new one in. All is good now (fingers crossed)

I damaged one axle seal when removing the axles to replace the diff side CV boots. I was in a hurry (realized the seal was bad on Sunday, had a track day on Thursday) and local dealers didn't have the seals in stock. Ordered the Timken 710142 from Amazon with 2 day shipping and installed it Tuesday.

After some 350 highway miles and 3 track sessions the seal was very slowly weeping some diff fluid. Not enough to run down the diff but enough to wet the area around the axle.

Ordered a couple of OEM seals (same part number for Subaru and Toyota (it's a Toyota part) - 9031143009) from a local dealer and they arrived the next day (had I knew they'll come so quickly I wouldn't have bothered with the Timken). Swapped one in instead of the Timken and so far looks good. I have another track day coming up and I'll report back if the OEM seal performs better.

Although the Timken does fit fine and obviously works okay, it's pretty different than OEM. The OEM has a rubber coating on the outer ring while the Timken is bare metal. The seal is press-fit into the diff housing, and I can see the metal Timken not sealing perfectly to the housing (even if the seal around the axle is good).

Timken on left, damaged OEM seal middle, new OEM seal right.

Just for giggles, can you measure the ID of both seals. I haven't had any issues with the Timkin in my car.

Kinda hard to measure with the soft rubber, but it looks like the OEM one is a little bigger than then Timken (setting the calipers to 41mm is snug on the Timken, but there's a bit of wiggle room on the OEM). Outside diameter is 70mm on the Timken, and a little more on the OEM, but it can squish to less than 70mm. I suspect that the OEM's metal part is under 70mm, and the rubber creates the seal, while the Timken relies only on the metal press-fit (which is the one I suspect that leaked (seal to diff housing) rather than the axle side (seal to axle)).

It might be that the Timken is more sensitive to correct installation (perfectly flush and even, perfectly clean) while the OEM with its rubber coating can still fully seal if it's not perfect. I used the old seal to hammer the new seal in place, trying to get it to be flush all around (manual says between -0.5mm and 0.5mm is acceptable).

Seeing as the OEM seal can easily be had for less than the Timken, it's only a matter of availability to prefer it, IMO.