So in other words, they are saying only use the battery when street racing/ autox/ drift/ drag strip and after that when done with purpose to change back to the stock battery.

Amazing DIY!


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Not designed or tested for that purpose. Very short trips I've actually come home with the battery below its recommended minimum (at least, the charger goes into its safety/recover mode). Also if I leave the dash cams running... a calculated risk on my part. I'm looking at alternatives for camera power while parked, but the short trip thing may still remain (and will bug the heck out of me... why does it happen? no idea!)

Starts the car every time, and I've never run into issues on road trips. However, it's definitely not ideal. You'll probably lower the battery life, and without care you increase the risk of something bad happening slightly. So, yeah - not at all surprised that is their official stance.

Updated with TRUNK setup
 

Redid my setup to be in the trunk. I know people say don't do it! Too much Cable Weight! But I only used 2lbs of 4g to run it. My car has a lot of weight reduction in the rear so my goal has been to get more weight off the front to balance it out.


Ive been running it in the Winter now, it does crank slower but will start after a second (2-3 cranks, 20 Degrees). I drive it 3 times a week 100miles a day.


Made A cage out of aluminum bar from Home Depot and rivets, only added a 1.2lb!

https://i.imgur.com/NKReyFw.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/g5bFL1v.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/tMebnKp.jpg




Used the above mentioned Terminals up front with an old rubber exhaust hanger as my connection point. The terminals are a hair small, Pepboys sells terminal Shims to make it wider.
https://i.imgur.com/1B1QdYG.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/BOgkZHK.jpg


Would have preferred to put in behind the spare but there wasn't enough flat space, ( to keep center of gravity central). But it fit easy and easy to drill holes in this location. Used the spare tire mount as my ground point
https://i.imgur.com/ZsDGFv1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/OKF3Cio.jpg

I haven't done my research on this yet, but it sounds like a this is a giant LiPo battery. The Shorai tender sounds like a great idea, but my main concern, the alternator will be trying to charge this battery when driving. What's to say it doesn't over-charge or doesn't charge each cell equally? LiPos burst into a nasty lithium fire when the cells get imbalanced, jarred the wrong way, or even punctured (think a car accident).

you can see teh batterys voltage on your dash. it definitely sags when your lights are off and the alternator is off

I guess my point is, the only time the alternator is "off" is when the engine isn't running, since the alternator is belt-driven. Unless there's some kind of controller that cuts off the charging of the battery... am I missing something??

Kind of an interesting side track that I am investigating: The motorcycle part suppliers now have lithium battery voltage regulators that optimize the vehicle charging for lithium batteries.

For example,
https://shop.revivalcycles.com/lifep...tor-rectifier/

I am guessing that the twins' charging is too tightly integrated to the ECU/PCM to change charging schemes but we can dream...

I use a 10mm oversized alt pulley. I don’t remember all the numbers off the top of my head and it was a long time ago I calculated. But it put the alternators battery charging more in line with the shorais recommended charging specs. 2 years now, 2 winters, and zero issues so far.

I certainly won't discredit that it has zero issues so far. By nature I think about latent failures (e.i. fine now, then out of the blue it's on fire). My confidence is slowly increasing though because people are not reporting catastrophic failures.

This is great.
I know you moved it to the trunk already... But any idea if this setup would have any issues with heat due to proximity to rear mounted turbo like the Works kit? I imagine using a heat shield, plus your wrap would be fine, but I read that lithium batteries don't like heat.

Well its since been moved to the behind the backseat, buts its the same battery still running strong.

As to answer your question I guess the only way to is to put a thermometer in the engine bay to see how much heat your turbo generates, then compare it to the recommended specs for the battery.

https://i.imgur.com/cprJCrd.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/MRrarLj.jpg

Anyone have a lead on these batteries. I can't seem to find them anywhere in stock.

It shows the larger battery available on Shorai's website:
https://shoraipower.com/lfx36l3-bs12--p130