Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB
Page 15 of 28 « First 511121314 15 1617181925 Last »
Show 40 post(s) from this thread on one page

Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/index.php)
-   Software Tuning (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=88)
-   -   Tactrix EcuFlash Info for BRZ 86 FRS Rom flash update and logging (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62332)

steve99 07-20-2016 04:51 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tor (Post 2708791)
Thanks freerunner, we cross posted.

I will make a read/save first thing.

Everyone from my neck of the woods seems to have A01G, so I suppose I do as well. That's one less thing to worry about then.

I already updated the 32bitbase, with the one from Github. I just wanted confirmation that it was correct.

Which RR file from Kodename47 should I pick? Is his "standard" definitions also containing the extra tables?

don't get me wrong im not being an ass.


Over the past three years ive attemped to help several people who have bricked their ecu due not understanding the process and whats going on with flashing/defs/roms ect.


Bricking your ecu was quite expensive until we discovered the process to exchange ecu yourself , before that it was buy new ecu from dealer and get them to install and code in, about $1300 our money.


It took me quite some time to understand this process and their was basicly nothing written on how to do it back then.


This process is robust if you know what your doing and understand the process.


Its also very unforgiving if you get it wrong, once ecu is bricked its bricked, its not like a memory stick you can just erase and try again.


Things change constantly, and at freerunner said your usually ok with A01G roms/defs but oft guys change stuff all the time so you need to check. Also A01G is not suitable for all cars only up to about mid 2014 manuals.




Read out your stock rom first
Save a copy as .srf and .bin
Establish which calid it is


Play around with ecuflash and romraider and tunes before you try to flash


Conform the rom calid of the rom your going to flash
check tables in ecuflash and romraider if your editing and before flashing


always allow ecuflash to correct checksum if it askes (failure to do this will likely brick ecu)

Tor 07-20-2016 05:24 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodename47 (Post 2709299)
@Tor I'll link to my A01G Romraider defs when I'm on a laptop so you can choose which ones you prefer. What files are you trying to flash? OFT with launch control etc or just a normal standard ROM?

It doesn't matter if the tables don't appear in ECUflash, the definitions just point to the table locations so if the info isn't in the definition it is just invisible.
Questions still open:
1)My car is stock with A00G. I want to flash either OTS 2.076 or Wayne's 1.09 to the car.
Q:
From what I read so far I can flash the A01G version to my 2013/A00G car?

2) I want to use RomRaider to add timing to Waynes 1.09 if using that instead of OTS (tip from Wayne). EU/German fuel is supposedly better than AU (see my log, no knock on stock tune with 34 deg C ambient temperature).
Q:
I suppose your "OFT Manual G series" A01G file will work both for Waynes 1.09 and OFT 2.076?

I might want to experiment with "sound tuning" (exhaust bubble). Or other simple stuff where I can follow guides and slowly learn to use the software. I would need the Overrun tables from your definitions (thank you for your work).

Questions that have been answered:
1) Use Github 32bitbases - leave the other files as they are.

2) The OTS is a true A01G and won't cause me headaches if/when editing.

3) Use Github A01G EcuFlash definition (6 months old) for any A01G tune, no matter what definition was used to edit in RomRaider (thanks).


Future plans:
After I moved (in 2 months) and get a garage I want to remove the cat from the stock header. Then I want to repeat the above for a stg 2 tune, or depending on how brave I am/how much it catches my interest/how much time I have, might try out working on it myself.

Thanks for helping me out. :cheers:


Steve99, I don't know what I did to piss you off, I am just looking for advice on the (I suppose) fairly simple questions above. In any case thank you for writing the many guides, which without I would be even more confused. :)

Tor 07-20-2016 05:45 PM
Looks like we were both writing and cross posting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by steve99 (Post 2709326)
don't get me wrong im not being an ass.


Over the past three years ive attemped to help several people who have bricked their ecu due not understanding the process and whats going on with flashing/defs/roms ect.
I can imagine there are a lot of questions from people not reading up on the stuff. I think I did and I am fairly sure that my own answers to my questions are correct. The reason for asking them and not simply diving into it, is exactly because I do not want to brick my ECU. So while my questions might seem noobish, I am basically just looking for a blessing before ruining anything.

And I do indeed want to learn! But I need to get started somewhere. I am practically orientated. I want to get my hands on it in a safe way, even if I don't know it all from the beginning.

Quote:
Things change constantly, and at freerunner said your usually ok with A01G roms/defs but oft guys change stuff all the time so you need to check. Also A01G is not suitable for all cars only up to about mid 2014 manuals.
For that reason, my plan is to stick with whatever definitions and tunes I pick out now and with the advice I get are deemed safe combinations. If I in the future for some reason need to change, I wont due so without due diligence.

Quote:
Read out your stock rom first
Save a copy as .srf and .bin
Establish which calid it is
Check and save! It's A00G according to "current ROM metadata" to the left. I wonder how it's recognised as I only have the Github A01G definition loaded in EcuFlash.

When saving I also got an error message about "invalid data":

https://s31.postimg.org/3vbhbv6az/Sc...t_23_39_30.png

I suppose that is exactly because I don't have a A00G definition loaded? I will of course do it properly before attempting any kind of flashing. Only have A00G on the read, delete it and put the A01G in the folder when flashing.



Check on the rest of the advice as well. Thank you. I already edited (and discarded) several files, just to find out how the RomRaider interface works.

Thanks for your help, it's much appreciated! I hope I will be just as enthusiastic as you and many others, and who knows maybe I can contribute down the line (I'm a flow chart kind of guy :D ).

steve99 07-20-2016 06:12 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tor (Post 2709350)
Questions still open:
1)My car is stock with A00G. I want to flash either OTS 2.076 or Wayne's 1.09 to the car.
Q:
From what I read so far I can flash the A01G version to my 2013/A00G car?

2) I want to use RomRaider to add timing to Waynes 1.09 if using that instead of OTS (tip from Wayne). EU/German fuel is supposedly better than AU (see my log, no knock on stock tune with 34 deg C ambient temperature).
Q:
I suppose your "OFT Manual G series" A01G file will work both for Waynes 1.09 and OFT 2.076?

I might want to experiment with "sound tuning" (exhaust bubble). Or other simple stuff where I can follow guides and slowly learn to use the software. I would need the Overrun tables from your definitions (thank you for your work).

Questions that have been answered:
1) Use Github 32bitbases - leave the other files as they are.

2) The OTS is a true A01G and won't cause me headaches if/when editing.

3) Use Github A01G EcuFlash definition (6 months old) for any A01G tune, no matter what definition was used to edit in RomRaider (thanks).


Future plans:
After I moved (in 2 months) and get a garage I want to remove the cat from the stock header. Then I want to repeat the above for a stg 2 tune, or depending on how brave I am/how much it catches my interest/how much time I have, might try out working on it myself.

Thanks for helping me out. :cheers:


Steve99, I don't know what I did to piss you off, I am just looking for advice on the (I suppose) fairly simple questions above. In any case thank you for writing the many guides, which without I would be even more confused. :)

Im not upset mate


I just don't like hearing about people bricking their ecu :-)




If your stock rom is A00G then yes use A01G roms and defs and you should be fine.


You probably best using wayno's roms and his defs for romraider use the A01G roms and defs. His roms are already set up with a lot of good tweaks and set up for 98 ron fuel not usa 91/93.


Then just flash with ecuflash using a A01G def, make sure you let ecuflash correct checksum, romraider does not correct it properly.








All the roms are native metric, the defs just scale the parameters to display in metric (some eg kodename47 defs) or imperial (romraider , wayno,s). The danger is transferring data from one rom to another if you have a mix of metric and imperial defs.


keep everything A01G and you should be fine. always worth checking rom with hex editor to see all three calid are same and A01G and that some tables like Primary OL fueling and base timing B look fine and x/y axis look good, mismatch rom/def will show up with weird values or weird axis values.


If you ever see anything weird, don't flash, find out what problem is.

Kodename47 07-20-2016 06:33 PM
A00G/A01G/A02G all compatible.

Defs (Non-OFT, no LC access):
A01G - Metric/Ratios - ECUtek Style
A01G - Metric/%

These will work correctly with any A01G file whether OFT or not, so the ones you listed are compatible.

steve99 07-20-2016 08:21 PM
as above from @Kodename47


A00G/A01G/A02G defs compatible


just be aware that


OFT A00G A01G and A02G are all actually based on A01G rom


The stock A00G/A01G/A02G roms appear not to have been recompiled or what ever was done did not alter the locations of the known tables in definitions so they are compatible definition wise. It likely that changes were made to "undefined" or unknown tables in the rom for A02G


The A00G to A01G incorporated a critical fix to transient retard tables so its well worth going to A01G if your going to drive car hard, A02G seemed to just add more idle stability fix's according to the romraider gurus.


If you want a "real" A02G rom you will have to transfer all the changed tables from a OFT A01G rom to a stock A02G rom.

freerunner 07-21-2016 03:35 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tor (Post 2708791)
Everyone from my neck of the woods seems to have A01G, so I suppose I do as well. That's one less thing to worry about then.
As long as your car didn't come with a D00G or upwards you can flash A01G regardless which version was installed. Commonly European models before or early 2015 haven't had D00G, IIRC.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tor (Post 2708791)
I already updated the 32bitbase, with the one from Github. I just wanted confirmation that it was correct.
Can't hurt but should not be necessary any more based on my last experience.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tor (Post 2708791)
Which RR file from Kodename47 should I pick? Is his "standard" definitions also containing the extra tables?
They all come with extra tables, you just have to choose which units are more pleasant to your eye. :) I went with standard/metric since the units are mostly similar to my Tactrix logcfg.

Tor 07-21-2016 05:25 AM
Thanks a lot to all of you. With your help I feel confident to flash now. :)

I will start out by simply flashing Waynes 1.08.2 Stg 1 A01G, without any changes. Then do some logging and see if it knocks. If it doesn't I might add 2 deg timing to the base timing B, using Waynes defs.

freerunner 07-21-2016 06:08 AM
Don't want to cut your zeal, but I suggest you to get your AFR (-> maf scale) right in the first place ;)

steve99 07-21-2016 06:09 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tor (Post 2709367)
Looks like we were both writing and cross posting.



I can imagine there are a lot of questions from people not reading up on the stuff. I think I did and I am fairly sure that my own answers to my questions are correct. The reason for asking them and not simply diving into it, is exactly because I do not want to brick my ECU. So while my questions might seem noobish, I am basically just looking for a blessing before ruining anything.

And I do indeed want to learn! But I need to get started somewhere. I am practically orientated. I want to get my hands on it in a safe way, even if I don't know it all from the beginning.


For that reason, my plan is to stick with whatever definitions and tunes I pick out now and with the advice I get are deemed safe combinations. If I in the future for some reason need to change, I wont due so without due diligence.


Check and save! It's A00G according to "current ROM metadata" to the left. I wonder how it's recognised as I only have the Github A01G definition loaded in EcuFlash.

When saving I also got an error message about "invalid data":

https://s31.postimg.org/3vbhbv6az/Sc...t_23_39_30.png

I suppose that is exactly because I don't have a A00G definition loaded? I will of course do it properly before attempting any kind of flashing. Only have A00G on the read, delete it and put the A01G in the folder when flashing.



Check on the rest of the advice as well. Thank you. I already edited (and discarded) several files, just to find out how the RomRaider interface works.

Thanks for your help, it's much appreciated! I hope I will be just as enthusiastic as you and many others, and who knows maybe I can contribute down the line (I'm a flow chart kind of guy :D ).
If you save image as .srf it saves extra data and info about tge rom for the tactrx guys.

if you save as .bin format it does not save the extra info , and it zero pads the 0000-7FFF area this does not get written when you write a rom to car, its just a warning message and is ok.

the 0000-7FFFF is the " boot" area of the ecu, this is the failsafe area and will often save you from bricking ecu as it allows the ecu to still communicate with obd port after a failed flash, but only if you dont turn off ignition Not even tactrix guys have worked out how to read thi locked area yet so the info in that area id not valid anyway.

once you turn off ignition the ecu may jump from program mode to run mode and pass through boot area and attempt to run a corrupted partial flash and go into an indetermiate or loop state, it does not appear to have a good watchdog timer .

if you ever get fail always reflash , dont turn ignition off.

steve99 07-21-2016 06:13 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tor (Post 2709699)
Thanks a lot to all of you. With your help I feel confident to flash now. :)

I will start out by simply flashing Waynes 1.08.2 Stg 1 A01G, without any changes. Then do some logging and see if it knocks. If it doesn't I might add 2 deg timing to the base timing B, using Waynes defs.

just be carefull adding timing, wayno has also changed the knock correction max A table and total timing is base b plus knock correction max A.

also if your looking at usa 93 tunes their 93 is usually more knock resistant than your 98 ron.

im sure your flash will be fine

Tor 07-21-2016 09:22 AM
I flashed Waynes stg 1 A01G tune without any problems. And the car runs fine. There is a noise I didn't hear before at 4000 rpm. Best described as like a hissing noise from the valves. I suppose that comes from some adjustments and it's normal?

Edit:
I suppose this is what I hear at 4000 rpm?
https://s32.postimg.org/kk39wywxh/Sc...t_18_22_24.png

I drove the car for about 45 mins to 1 hour and in the end did some pulls in 3rd gear.

Quote:
also if your looking at usa 93 tunes their 93 is usually more knock resistant than your 98 ron.
I think there is a misconception (or generalisation) about EU fuel. We have (Germany and Northern EU) fuel that is at least on par or surpasses US fuel. Actually there is equally a common misconception here, that all US fuel is crap.

Anyway I run 100 octane Shell V-power (we got 102 octane Aral as well). And I have 0 flkc / 0 fbkc and IAM 1 with Wayne's 1.08.2.

http://datazap.me/u/tor/ww1082-stg-1...ata=2-16-19-27

However I will leave it as it is until I see how it's working at the track.

As for how it feels, I can't feel a difference in power as expected. But the pedal tuning feels very nice, more aggressive generally and when accelerating from within the torque dip it feels more linear. Best way to describe it is there is a better correlation between what you demand and what you get (I make no illusions that I am actually getting significantly more power in the torque dip).

Quote:
Originally Posted by freerunner (Post 2709707)
Don't want to cut your zeal, but I suggest you to get your AFR (-> maf scale) right in the first place ;)
Thanks!

How does the MAF look in the log? 12-13 during the pull should be okay?

I will have a closer look at the guide:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64790

Tor 07-21-2016 11:50 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve99 (Post 2709709)
just be carefull adding timing, wayno has also changed the knock correction max A table and total timing is base b plus knock correction max A.
Is the info about KC max additive advance found here applicable to our cars as well?

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2612534

lizbrayan 07-21-2016 05:18 PM
Alright Guys, so I got my tactrix openport 2.0. I got the D00D definitions from github. Read my stock ecu which is also D00D. Have my oft stage 2 uel 93 map open and I checked it in a hex editor. The only place za1jd00d shows up is at 8000. What else do I have to do to make sure I dont brick my ecu. Did I cover all my bases am I good to go ?

Wayno 07-21-2016 06:17 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tor (Post 2709757)
I flashed Waynes stg 1 A01G tune without any problems. And the car runs fine. There is a noise I didn't hear before at 4000 rpm. Best described as like a hissing noise from the valves. I suppose that comes from some adjustments and it's normal?

Edit:
I suppose this is what I hear at 4000 rpm?
https://s32.postimg.org/kk39wywxh/Sc...t_18_22_24.png

I drove the car for about 45 mins to 1 hour and in the end did some pulls in 3rd gear.



I think there is a misconception (or generalisation) about EU fuel. We have (Germany and Northern EU) fuel that is at least on par or surpasses US fuel. Actually there is equally a common misconception here, that all US fuel is crap.

Anyway I run 100 octane Shell V-power (we got 102 octane Aral as well). And I have 0 flkc / 0 fbkc and IAM 1 with Wayne's 1.08.2.

http://datazap.me/u/tor/ww1082-stg-1...ata=2-16-19-27

However I will leave it as it is until I see how it's working at the track.

As for how it feels, I can't feel a difference in power as expected. But the pedal tuning feels very nice, more aggressive generally and when accelerating from within the torque dip it feels more linear. Best way to describe it is there is a better correlation between what you demand and what you get (I make no illusions that I am actually getting significantly more power in the torque dip).


Thanks!

How does the MAF look in the log? 12-13 during the pull should be okay?

I will have a closer look at the guide:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64790
Looks fine. Openflash Stg1 runs intentionally lean compared to Stg2. If you want it more in the power band you only need to copy the AU.Rich scale over the top of Stg1. After you add more timing with it rich it may or may not make more power than running leaner.

Kodename47 07-21-2016 06:33 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by lizbrayan (Post 2710117)
What else do I have to do to make sure I dont brick my ecu.
Not use that file and find/make a genuine D00D ROM.

If you search for ZA1J in the hex editor, what are the other results?

lizbrayan 07-21-2016 06:34 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodename47 (Post 2710180)
Not use that file and find/make a genuine D00D ROM.

If you search for ZA1J in the hex editor, what are the other results?
It only appears at the 8000 line thats it.

Sent from my SGH-T999N using Tapatalk

Kodename47 07-21-2016 06:39 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by lizbrayan (Post 2710182)
It only appears at the 8000 line thats it.
No, it will appear more than once.

lizbrayan 07-21-2016 06:46 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodename47 (Post 2710186)
No, it will appear more than once.
I only found it once man i just looked for it again

Sent from my SGH-T999N using Tapatalk

Kodename47 07-21-2016 07:25 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by lizbrayan (Post 2710191)
I only found it once man i just looked for it again
Did you search for just ZA1J?

There should be 3 instances of CAL ID in a ROM, and all will need to match.

lizbrayan 07-21-2016 07:33 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodename47 (Post 2710209)
Did you search for just ZA1J?

There should be 3 instances of CAL ID in a ROM, and all will need to match.
Yeah only za1j and then at the 8000 line it gave me za1jd00d

Sent from my SGH-T999N using Tapatalk

lizbrayan 07-21-2016 07:41 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodename47 (Post 2710209)
Did you search for just ZA1J?

There should be 3 instances of CAL ID in a ROM, and all will need to match.
I checked again and i found it again at the 10000 line but didnt find it again

Sent from my SGH-T999N using Tapatalk

steve99 07-21-2016 08:42 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by lizbrayan (Post 2710226)
I checked again and i found it again at the 10000 line but didnt find it again

Sent from my SGH-T999N using Tapatalk
As kodename47 said their are three calid in rom unless something is rearly wrong

just search for ZA1J dont search for ZA1JDOOD, what we are trying to establish is if all three are same their should be ones at 8000,10000 and a bit over 11000

steve99 07-21-2016 08:48 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tor (Post 2709862)
Is the info about KC max additive advance found here applicable to our cars as well?

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2612534
got a bit of an explaination here

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61820



the noise arround 4000 rpm with EL header tunes is normal and due to valve timing\overlap to remove torque dip if you rearly hate it you can reduce exhaust cam by 10 degrees but you will get more torque dip back in that area

Tor 07-22-2016 12:16 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayno (Post 2710169)
Looks fine. Openflash Stg1 runs intentionally lean compared to Stg2. If you want it more in the power band you only need to copy the AU.Rich scale over the top of Stg1. After you add more timing with it rich it may or may not make more power than running leaner.
Thanks again Wayne!

Quote:
Originally Posted by steve99 (Post 2710280)
got a bit of an explaination here

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61820

the noise arround 4000 rpm with EL header tunes is normal and due to valve timing\overlap to remove torque dip if you rearly hate it you can reduce exhaust cam by 10 degrees but you will get more torque dip back in that area
Thanks, I will have a look at the link.
No I like the noise it makes. It has a very aggressive sound to it. Just curious what caused it and that I wasn't imagining things.


Another question that is Tactrix related, but not tuning related. For track usage, I could see the logging feature being very useful. Particularly if it would be possible to log either brake pressure or brake pedal travel (probably easier), e.g. via a potentiometer connected to pin 12 via the 2.5mm jack. Would it be possible to define the output of pin 12 in the logcfg.txt?

steve99 07-22-2016 12:52 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tor (Post 2710396)
Thanks again Wayne!


Thanks, I will have a look at the link.
No I like the noise it makes. It has a very aggressive sound to it. Just curious what caused it and that I wasn't imagining things.


Another question that is Tactrix related, but not tuning related. For track usage, I could see the logging feature being very useful. Particularly if it would be possible to log either brake pressure or brake pedal travel (probably easier), e.g. via a potentiometer connected to pin 12 via the 2.5mm jack. Would it be possible to define the output of pin 12 in the logcfg.txt?
Hmmm im not sure im following you with the brake pressure, thats probably monitored by the vehicle sability module rarther than the engine ecu i think unless your adding your own sensor.

the 2.5 mm jack on tactrix is set up to monitor inovate wideband im not sure what voltages it expects might be worth emailing the tactrix guys, ive never used it.

Tor 07-22-2016 01:11 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve99 (Post 2710407)
Hmmm im not sure im following you with the brake pressure, thats probably monitored by the vehicle sability module rarther than the engine ecu i think unless your adding your own sensor.

the 2.5 mm jack on tactrix is set up to monitor inovate wideband im not sure what voltages it expects might be worth emailing the tactrix guys, ive never used it.
Yes, I meant brake pressure via own sensor. Hence, I would think it's probably easier to add a potentiometer to the pedal. Probably not as accurate as monitoring pressure, but probably enough to pick up brake technique mistakes or spot bad habits.

Seems like it would be possible, another project for the winter. :)


P.s.
I read the link you gave about KCA and now I think I understand what you meant with "be careful with adding timing". Because the ECU can't pull as much timing with Waynes map as the stock one can (lower values in KC Advance Max A), in case one would add much too much?


Again, thank you were much for your help.

lizbrayan 07-22-2016 01:42 AM
1 Attachment(s)
So I made a zip folder that has my stock rom from the ecu and the oft stage 2 uel 93 tune that "has" my calid. @steve99 and if some of you other guys can also help me out thatd be great thanks!

steve99 07-22-2016 03:33 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by lizbrayan (Post 2710425)
So I made a zip folder that has my stock rom from the ecu and the oft stage 2 uel 93 tune that "has" my calid. @steve99 and if some of you other guys can also help me out thatd be great thanks!
yep your stock rom is ZA1JD00D it was saved in ecuflash .srf format so hex locations different, you can open the rom and save it as .bin if you load a ECUFLASH DOOD def into the correct directory in ecuflash then the hex locations they are 8000,10000,11EB9E hex in standard bin format

checked the stage2 rom in your zip its real D00D as well so you will be able to use standard ecuflash D00D definition to flash

be sure to allow ecuflash to correct checksum before flashing

steve99 07-22-2016 03:37 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tor (Post 2710418)
Yes, I meant brake pressure via own sensor. Hence, I would think it's probably easier to add a potentiometer to the pedal. Probably not as accurate as monitoring pressure, but probably enough to pick up brake technique mistakes or spot bad habits.

Seems like it would be possible, another project for the winter. :)


P.s.
I read the link you gave about KCA and now I think I understand what you meant with "be careful with adding timing". Because the ECU can't pull as much timing with Waynes map as the stock one can (lower values in KC Advance Max A), in case one would add much too much?


Again, thank you were much for your help.
main reason is some people just blindly copy base B say out of a standard OFT tune into wayno's without realising that he has changes the KCA table from what oft guys use

lizbrayan 07-22-2016 07:56 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve99 (Post 2710451)
yep your stock rom is ZA1JD00D it was saved in ecuflash .srf format so hex locations different, you can open the rom and save it as .bin if you load a ECUFLASH DOOD def into the correct directory in ecuflash then the hex locations they are 8000,10000,11EB9E hex in standard bin format

checked the stage2 rom in your zip its real D00D as well so you will be able to use standard ecuflash D00D definition to flash

be sure to allow ecuflash to correct checksum before flashing
So im good to go? i have the za1jd00d def in the brz 2014 folder because theres no 2015 folder and the 32bitbase def in the base folder. What do i have to check in the za1jd00d def to make sure its okay?

Sent from my SGH-T999N using Tapatalk

Tor 07-22-2016 08:14 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve99 (Post 2710454)
main reason is some people just blindly copy base B say out of a standard OFT tune into wayno's without realising that he has changes the KCA table from what oft guys use
I see. No, I would have select all fields in Base Timing B and added 2 degs with "Increment Value (Coarse)" arrow-up button.

I got helped to another solution. However, my questions are wandering off the Tactrix topic. So to avoid clutter I'll find appropriate threads when I have further questions.

Again many thanks for your help, and to everyone else who helped me out in this thread! :)

Kodename47 07-22-2016 12:34 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tor (Post 2710505)
I see. No, I would have select all fields in Base Timing B and added 2 degs with "Increment Value (Coarse)" arrow-up button.
Don't just go adding 2 degrees across the whole map....

Tor 07-22-2016 02:37 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodename47 (Post 2710629)
Don't just go adding 2 degrees across the whole map....
Thanks, yes I have the utmost respect for messing with thing. I wouldn't have done that without a lot of questions first with exactly how to go about it. :D I just meant I certainly wouldn't blindly copy/paste anything from another map. I'm surprised that there are people treating it all with such carelessness. They must have deep pockets.

I noticed yesterday that my brakes are so bad I am not driving the car before I get my brake job done (got my new XP10 pads in the mail today). So first priority is now brakes.

I also want to drive on track next Wednesday, so I'm considering just to leave it all as it is on Waynes 108.2 tune and log it there to see how it behaves. For me it's more important that it has a conservative track tune, than to squeeze out every hp for street usage. During the pulls I logged it had no knock at all.

I also did a log pulling the car fairly hard up a hill on a backroad in mid rpm range (I think I was feeling out the torque dip) - there after just normal cruising. To be honest, I didn't look at that log very thoroughly until today
http://datazap.me/u/tor/ww1082-drivi...26-27&mark=332

During the "hill climb" there were a 4 flkc events (0.65 range) and 2 fbkc (1 at -2,1 at 3200 rpm and 0.93 load, going off the throttle). I suppose that is "normal"? And even with these events more timing wouldn't hurt, possibly pulled back in those areas if it's consistently reproducible?

Now I am getting off-Tactrix topic again. :D I guess I should use the sticky datalog thread instead?

lizbrayan 07-22-2016 03:57 PM
Alright so i flashed the oft stage 2 uel to my car. Feels great. Just got a question is it possible to program a launch control on an a/t with ecuflash, if so how do i do it?

Sent from my SGH-T999N using Tapatalk

phrosty 07-22-2016 04:03 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by lizbrayan (Post 2710791)
Just got a question is it possible to program a launch control on an a/t with ecuflash, if so how do i do it?
In theory it may be possible, but your torque converter stall limit gets in the way of any meaningful launch control.

Kodename47 07-22-2016 04:34 PM
@Tor if you're using Wayno's base and advance tables, if you want to advance timing I would suggest no more than 1 degree at a time and even then it's only really beneficial to do it for WOT loads. You might find some response improvements by adding timing in medium transient loads (~0.8+) if you're not showing any signs of timing retard but there's no point in increasing timing on cruise over stock IMO. How you add this is up to you, in the base table or the advance, just remember to check the totals of the 2 combined to try and keep a smooth-ish table.

Tor 07-22-2016 05:12 PM
Thanks for the description. It helped to increase my understanding. For now I wont need to change anything. It was stupid to mention the +2 deg on the whole table, without the full picture. What I meant to say was "I won't copy tables from one map to another without someone telling me why to do it".

EAGLE5 07-22-2016 05:42 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by lizbrayan (Post 2710791)
Alright so i flashed the oft stage 2 uel to my car. Feels great. Just got a question is it possible to program a launch control on an a/t with ecuflash, if so how do i do it?

Sent from my SGH-T999N using Tapatalk
You place your left foot on the brake pedal and your right foot on the accelerator. When you hit the desired RPM, lift your left foot. Last I remember, all the launch control did was hold a chosen rpm before dropping the clutch.

lizbrayan 07-22-2016 05:43 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsimon7777 (Post 2710883)
You place your left foot on the brake pedal and your right foot on the accelerator. When you hit the desired RPM, lift your left foot. Last I remember, all the launch control did was hold a chosen rpm before dropping the clutch.
Lol you made me laugh bud, it was worth a shot

Sent from my SGH-T999N using Tapatalk


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:47 AM.
Page 15 of 28 « First 511121314 15 1617181925 Last »
Show 40 post(s) from this thread on one page

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2026 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.


Garage vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.