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Here's some facts I owned a unichip. I own an open flash tablet. The unichip is garbage. The open flash tablet actually does useful things. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Unichip is fine for other vehicles, but I sold mine 10 cents on the dollar
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thanks for the input guys, i guess OFT it is for me.
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Compressor Bracket
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Many Thanks to keen as for his compressor bracket.
Really firms up the intake and results in some additional ESC noise goodness. |
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Interesting idea. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Does the bracket flex enough for engine movement? I guess the intake tubing flexes enough?
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The bracket itself is only 1 - 1.2 mm thick and is fairly flexable. The benefit is that it takes some of the load off the 2 remaining intake bolts so the connection to the intakes snorkel lines up better. |
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I noticed with my mishimoto intake I no longer have any flex. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
AFAIK nobody has looked into the idea of a RPM guage on the dashboard to really keep an eye on what the ESC is doing. Would be especially handy now with Procede management when the voltmeter often doesn't reflect lower RPM inputs at partial throttle.
Something like this seems applicable but I'm not electrically savvy enough to be sure how it'd be integrated: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...BL_Motors.html Cheap enough to give it a go and throw it away if it doesn't work out. :thumbsup: Also for you guys who may not be monitoring the Software tuning section, be aware that there's (possibly) a problem with OFT's which become bricked after the latest firmware/software auto-update. There's a thread about it, but no input from Shiv and Co at this point. Workaround for the time being is probably to use the OFT but don't let it connect to the internet at any point – especially if it's been some time since you've done so. That's just my speculation, YMMV. |
just added myself into google doc. :)
i am wondering how to charge battery? I usually drive my car weekend and dont want to drain battery. just connecting battery tender to Odyssey battery is going to charge 2 dump pack batteries as well? or i need to disassemble and charge them? |
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Don't worry about it for either Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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That being said, does anyone know or have first hand experience on how long the ESC starter battery can go with the OFT plugged in before it's drained to a point it can no longer start the car? |
i usually charged my battery in winter since i drive like once per 2 weeks? also avoid on salty roads.
since i installed ESC, trying to avoid my battery dead. just trying to see ok to charge battery with unit installed or i need to disassemble batteries to charge |
Anyone selling or knows someone who is selling a PROcede ESC Controller?
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Always unplug the Blackview when parked in the garage, though car has Cat3 rust/paint protection running 24/7. Not a good idea to drain the starter too much as it can give the battery a memory where it won't fully recharge. Had this issue on another car, maybe the Oddessy doesn't have this issue? |
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i dont need to disconnect dump pack battery cable at all? |
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It's totally seperate from the dump wiring so nothing is disconnected. |
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thanks. i kinda wish we can charge dump pack batteries without disassemble as well |
The battery tender should charge all the batteries shouldn't it? That's what the car's alternator does. And the charger is taking the place of the alternator right? I guess it charges the dump batteries (24V) through the charger/controller.
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but wanted to make sure because i have no idea how this controller works. I don't drive a lot in winter time so i just usually leave it charged with battery tender. |
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Do what Gums said. The dump pack is separate and does not get used or charged until the controller is on, when the car is on. When my car is parked in my garage, I directly connect the starter battery (12v) to my charger to keep it fully charged. It does nothing to the dump pack (24v). |
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well, no sooner do you guys post up this issue, and I left my dome light on for a day and a half.......
Odyssey completely dead..... won't hold a recharge... ordering a new one now...... |
This is unrelated, but just came back from a 3 week vacation and my odyssey started my car up strongly within the first crank. Should've trashed my old battery a long time ago.
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Outstanding article!
I killed my OEM battery by letting it sit unused in the garage for a year and a half. It wouldn't take a charge with a normal charger. I connected it to a trickle charger and after about 4 days it came back to life! Don't give up on your Odyssey until you try this. |
Thats awesome! I'll give it a try. Had to go pickup a new odyssey anyways (found it in Compton for $90 (4wheelparts).
I had a couple friends in town that I had to show off the supercharger to..... success though as the went from :bs: to :confused0068: I don't have a trickle charger... looking at this one from the homey's. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Battery-T...0192/204841738 $39 or $22 online. what do you guys think? Quote:
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http://www.costco.com/Battery-Tender...100241973.html |
Just to let you know odyssey batteries have two batteries. Trickle chargers sometimes won't charge them properly.
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Hey guys so I have the newest procede controller and i have a version 1 esc. My esc switch (no partial boost) is a straight wire brown/black (no aux) which goes to the phantom controller. Does anyone know which wire (brown or black) i need to cut and attach to the Procede? I'm guessing brown wire since black is most likely ground
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You have to use a multimeter to test which wire is ground and which has 5v of current. I don't remember having two wires to the WOT switch. I do remember there being one shielded wire and then copper surroundings. One is ground and one is positive, but you need to test them, as there is not a standard of which is which, since it was before the procede's time. For me, the copper wires was what I needed to tap to the procede. For another member, the single shielded wire was what he needed to tap. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Knocking problem with Procede and OFT ESC tune
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@shaynek contacted me about fixing a knock problem that was dropping his IAM when he boosted at low rpms. The first thing I thought was "Try my tune instead of the OFT tune", but it knocked just as bad as the OFT tune. Well, in theory, I should be able to plant my foot at any rpm without getting engine knock, if the tune is right...
So I started with Timing compensation and looked at the MAP comp table. It looked like the more pressure it got, the more it changes the timing. That should do it, right? But, in the description in RR it says in parenthesis, "(clutch depressed)", see pic below. Well that isn't going to work on an AT, and sure enough, it didn't. So I looked in the Timing Advance section and saw the Knock Correction Advance Max A table, and thought "Let's give this a try." I rescaled it to go to an Engine Load of 4.0, since that was as high as I saw in my logging, and lowered the cells where I saw the most knocking. This is only my first try at modding this table, but it did virtually eliminate knock. 3 out of 5 logs had no knock whatsoever, and the 2 that did had only momentary knock, not long enough to drop the IAM. See the logs here, http://datazap.me/u/koolbrz/log-1453...ata=1-2-8-9-10 If you're getting knock between 2000 and 3000 rpms when boosting heavy, (I saw Engine Loads as high as 3.82, and boost as high as 4 psi) you'll need to change this table to eliminate knock. If anyone has a dyno, they can optimize this map to get the most out of it. Just start with a table full of 3's, then log the knocks and pull timing from those cells, bump the other cells to 3.5, log and pull timing, bump up to 4, log and pull etc... |
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Hey kool nice job spotting that. Were you getting knock on your system as well? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Yes, I was getting it too
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To my understanding, Knock Correction Advance Max A is the amount of timing the ECU is allowed to pull in response to knock for a given load/RPM cell. Setting it to zero may actually prevent the ECU from responding to knock at all, even though the events are still occurring. Remember, the parameters that we log, FBKC and FLKC, aren't the knock events themselves; they're the ECU's response to what it thinks is a knock event (FLKC is a bit different, but the logic still applies). Just because you don't see those parameters logged anymore doesn't necessarily mean knock isn't still occurring.
Said another way, the total ignition timing is the sum of Knock Correction Advance Max A and Base Timing A/B (B is what's normally used; I think A is for limp-home or post-start, not sure which). There are probably some other compensations applied as well. You can achieve the same effect you're going for by rescaling the load axis on Base Timing B and removing timing from there. Since it looks like you're pulling 6 degrees total, I'd go ahead and pull 3 from Base Timing B and 3 from Knock Correction Advance Max A in the affected cells. That way, you still have some headroom in Knock Correction Advance Max A for the ECU to pull timing in response to knock. It may actually reveal that it's still knocking in that range. |
OK, someone had to do it!
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Here is my prototype rescaled Base Timing B table. It goes up to 4.0 Engine Load because I've logged up to 3.82 Engine Load. Now timing can be pulled from wherever knock is coming from. Load columns 1.4 through 4.0 are all the same, so far. That is where I'll be making most of my changes. I'm also trying a rescaled BTB table with a smoother transition. That's the 2nd pic.
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