The dealers around here don't want to work on modified cars. If you're from the northwest please give me the dealer and mechanic info so I can take it to the same place you did.

Sorry Midwest. I would esclate this to someone higher up.

I wonder if this might have been something that might have affected earlier cars more? I have no idea how or why that would be but it seems like I didn't see as many reports this year of axles breaking than I did the previous year.

My car had 350 autox runs this season and no signs of impending axle failure yet, but I'm sure I'm on borrowed time (I have 2 spare axles). Lowered around 1-1.25".

this is what i did to try and alleviate the problem of breaking axles, the notching of the subframe was necessary to keep the DSS axles. This was a lot of work and a big pain in the ass.

PBM Diff/Subframe Risers and Subframe Notch

I'm going to bring this thread back. I went to have my oil changed yesterday and was informed that my "front cv axle" has a leak. Obviously that's impossible, it's not a FWD car. However, I looked around the rear to see if I could spot any grease slung on anything and couldn't see a drop. I don't hear any clicking noises from the rear either. I'm lowered around 5 inches, which is a lot of strain on the CV joints/boots however, I'm thinking the Toyota dealership thinks I'm just some young guy that doesn't know anything about a vehicle and wants me to spend money. It does have me worried now. How much does a replacement axle run for? I couldn't find anything online really besides a whole kit for 600+ hp.

When I broke mine I just found a used one for about $100.

Looks like it'll be a while before the Pep Boys and Autozones start selling them.

400 bucks according to the subie parts site which, BTW, is not bad for a new one.

If you pre-load the axle and suspension before a hard launch it should reduce the heavy load on the CV cage. Also if you are racing, autocross or whatever and you don't turn of the VSC,TRC,and pull the ABS you are trying the spin the rear wheels when the nannies are trying to hold you back and thus putting even more stress on the bearing cage. I suggest pedal dance and pull the ABS fuse and if you have to make sure you pre-load the axles before you launch.

Necro'ing this thread: Seem to have broken an axle last Friday at the drag strip. 4 runs in total @428/330 with the third launch experiencing some bad axle hop (was trying to be a bit more aggressive on the launch that time). I am getting some clicking from the left rear when sharply turning left and applying throttle. Will be taking it in for a repair at the stealership tomorrow…hope it's not too expensive.

Save yourself the money, buy these two - have an extra, and swap it yourself.
Takes maybe 30 minutes, easy 1 person job.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-SUBARU-...ca1c10&vxp=mtr

I've found new axels on eBay for ~$100. But the rarely pop up on there. I just buy them when I see them. I have one in the garage at home now.

lol me too - that's where i got mine. Could also try places like LKQ and other car part companies.

Dealer has replaced both of my axles under warranty.
The clicking begins on starts only then progress to shifting (up or down) and then cornering.

I am at 25k miles with effectively no track time.
However I bought it used at 9k miles so no telling what the PO did to it.

When your car rolls in super low on wide autoX wheels/tires with a big "Tire Rack" banner on the windshield warranty sorta doesn't work anymore. Plus I have 97,000 miles on my car now anyway.