Attachment 209139Attachment 209138Attachment 209137My Saturday project, get this M10x1.25 shift knob to fit my Subaru BRZ M12x1.25 threads. Game plan? Buy a 1 inch long M12x1.25 coupler, buy a 1inch long M10x1.25 bolt, and one way or another that bolt will be permanently secured in the M12x1.25 coupler lol.

Some of you may recognize this shift knob from the ND1 Miata, it is surprisingly well weighed and has a great feel to it. Updated Photos of this shift knob in my Subaru will be posted sometime late Saturday.

Sounds like you may have been doing something else! :thumbup:

It looks great! I don't see how it will go into reverse.

What do you mean? Am I missing something?

Attachment 209153Attachment 209152EZ Clap, plastic threads in the knob, just forced it on and it works like a charm. Just need to fill that gap in somehow.

Oof. I mean no disrespect, but that's...not the best I've seen. Maybe it will be better after you fill the gap? The knob itself is nice looking and matches the colors of the interior.

Do you have to use your other hand to engage the reverse lockout?

Attachment 209162Nope I can still do reverse lockout with 1 hand. I know it's semi ghetto looking but I absolutely adore how that knob feels in my hand. Did some driving around today with it and absolutely love it. It may even rival my future UEL headers as my favorite mod.

I got a cheap rubber grommet for now, I will find something nicer eventually to make that gap look cleaner.

If you are happy with it then good job! Enjoy the drive buddy.

FWIW the grommet does substantially improve the look, not perfect yet but I can see where you are going with that.

Installed the MXP Comp RS. My car is still under 1000 miles, so I can't really rev it out. So far, I really like it. A little drone off throttle at 3000. Overall, it will improve my connection to the car; my downshifts are buttery now.

I feel the same with the drone, I don't know if I'm getting old or I don't like it lol

Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk

Same. I was really struggling with consistently heel toeing the car when I first got it. Put both a Borla exhaust and a Cusco gas pedal extension and those together have made it immensely better. Like from 5/10 to 8.5/10. Still not as good as say a Porsche or S2000 due to the throttle response, but better than basically anything else I’ve driven in recent memory.

If I had to pick one of those mods for hard driving, I would still take the pedal extension, though.

Cusco pedal extension is definitely a must have (imo). Ordered one for my incoming car already and had it on my old cars too. One of the cheapest and best upgrades for heal/toe consistency!

Im having a hell of a time trying to ball/toe so I will definitely need the gas pedal extended to the left a bit more for consist rev matching. That pedal looks like my best option.

Yep. For me it’s not so much an issue that I can’t do it at all, but that the throttle pedal position is just far enough it’s not a quick fluid motion that is hard to mess up. Often I missed the pedal by a bit and/or my foot positioning makes it awkward to modulate the brakes and gas as I need to.

Had some fun dancing the car on ice/snow yesterday.
There was another white BRZ at the event. Anyone here?
https://youtu.be/X8JBd3Tpkrs

Installed my new Enkei Raijin wheels with Michelin Pilot Sport All Season 4 tires. Getting ready to take it for a ride in a few minutes, and am hoping that the TPMS light doesn't come on.

Very much want to see how those Raijins look. Post pics when you can.

Finally removed the clutch spring. Been hesitating since my '16 brz. Much easier to modulate with a bit of pressure. Have the mtec spring on order, but debating whether I should even put it in. I've always been a fan of heavier clutches.

TPMS light came on after 15 miles of driving. :(

I am going to post a thread tomorrow that I hope does not get me banned. It's about how I think Subaru is going at this with the TPMS sensors and the need to reprogram them with new wheels like BMW has with buying a battery from them, and having to reprogram them and register it to the car.

Another grasp for money by Subaru and BMW.

My wife's Audi wanted a dealer visit for a new battery. I decided to do it myself. There were several posts stating to key in a code that was one digit off from the old battery's code, but then I learned if you switch out the battery quickly it will not ask for the code. This worked for me and the car is doing great months later.

I pulled the trigger on a car phone holder today. It was $39.00 at Best Buy. I have researched them for a while and came up with this one. I think it looks clean and is out of the way. Here are some pics of the installation. I inserted a little black plastic piece from an old wire bracket to hold the trim apart for the phone cable. The cable is not pinched and can slide freely. See the last pic to see the piece I cut out and the bracket it came from.

Washed, clay barred, and waxed. Took her out for some Philly cheesesteaks; I'm really enjoying the Comp RS. I can't wait to clear the break-in period! This car is a dream.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0

Installed the TRD door stabilizer kit. Had to re-align the drivers side back plate after getting the screws out, but passenger side was cake.

it needed a clay bar already?

Pics if possible please. Also what is this and why is it needed/beneficial?

same as the previous gen.

here's that how-to, which is going to be identical for the new-gen.
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28367

basically you add a 'puck' of plastic to the car-side door latch, as well as another 'puck' of plastic to the door-side door latch. when the door is closed, they contact each other, and make it so the door can't wiggle around.

theoretically, it makes the door a more solid member(snicker) of the unibody structure by rigidly connecting the rear of the door to the b-pillar area.

the reality? it's a TRD 'mod', which might have some positive attributes, but it's first and foremost objective usually is to separate the user from a large quantity of money.

Nah. It didn't need washed or waxed, either. Sure looks nice, though, and will keep it fresh through the snowy months ahead.

Ohhhh, people kept trying to force these on us everywhere we went in Philly. They didn’t sound appetising at all. We finally had one (several) and they were bloody awesome! Have tried to make them ever since. Can’t make them the same! Haha.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds

New wheels and tires: 18x8 offset 45 Enkei Raijin in Hyper Silver with 225/40-18 Michelin Pilot Sport All Season 4 tires.

Sick! Do you have some shots from the front and back so we can see the effective offset?

I will take a few pictures from the front and rear this afternoon, and will post them then.

In the meanwhile, I do have a few more pictures to post that I took yesterday.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds

Even though I got 18x8's with 225/40-18's, Luke at Tirerack told me one could also do this wheel in 18x8.5 45 offset and run a 245/35-18.

It makes a difference. I clayed mine the day i took it home and the dealer didnt wash it. I used a light clay and it still picked up a ton of crap out of the paint. Rail dust and shit from shipping. if you're going to polish it doesn't add much time, especially on a car this small.

Yeah, I figured it couldn't hurt. The car spent a week at sea, two weeks at port, and then another week on the rail. It's not lost time to me either way; I really enjoy detailing.

I don't even have 1000km on my car yet and it's covered in salt/road gunk.

The average high has been about -14C since I picked it up so washing it isn't even an option since that would just turn it into a BRZcicle in the driveway.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds

Front wheel offset

https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...080&fit=bounds

Rear wheel offset

Even though neither fronts or rears are close to flush, the fronts do look better.

As I mentioned earlier, Luke at Tirerack told me one could go with the 18x8.5 45 offset Enkei Raijin with a 245/35-18. Those would obviously be more flush. I remember seeing a picture of someone here with 8.5's and 245/35-18's and the rears appeared to poke slightly past the fender. If one were to lower their car, that would fix that. I am not going to lower my car, which is why I only went with the 8's. They look fine to me.

They look great! That’s a really nice offset IMO. Not everyone goes crazy for flush or hellaflush. I prefer a slight inset so I can still get full compression and tuck the tire in the wheel well without problems.

What is your offset ?