I find CSG Mike to be an intelligent, experienced, skilled, straightforward and honest young man. Were I in the market for the products and services that he sells, I'd buy from him unhesitatingly.

He drives pretty well, too. ;)

When Mike talks … I listen.

They are not negligible to those who track their cars. A motor loss is a big deal, and the car is brand new. @CSG Mike doesn't own the CSG BRZ, he doesn't even need to post about this stuff. As he said he is the messenger. This is the first year the car has been out, all that you read is the groundwork for whats to come over the next few years. Chances are, most people wont have the issue, but their are a few owners who will. The thread is meant to be an informative warning. At least thats my interpretation.

If you go to any forum and look at the begining posts from when the car first came out, I'm sure you will find similar threads. Its all a part of the process.

There are just too many people that have suffered the same DI failure, who have talked to me about the issue, but have asked me not to identify them, so that they are able to sell their cars. I'm not aware of any other catalytic converter failures, which is the topic of this particular thread.

Many early adopters have already sold their cars and/or are selling their cars due to Scion (yes Scion) and Subaru not readily warrantying the failures. A smaller amount have taken matters into their own hands and have purchased Ecutek licenses solely to fix the issue.

We have purchased Ecutek to use with our car in the future, as Subaru won't even acknowledge that there is an updated ECU. Our Subaru dealer is unable to update us to the latest revision that has been going into cars on the assembly line as early as March of 2013, because Subaru of America has not given them the tools and/or ability and/or authorization to do so.

Going forward, we are proceeding with the assumption that we do not have a warranty, and we will carry that mentality to the 2014 we have on order; the 2014 will be tuned as soon as it is broken in.

Is there a reason you are getting another car? Is one going to be a street car vs. track only?

In all reality, the current car is (was?) a street car that saw track time. We showed up to meets all the time, and the car is so tame that it doesn't even have pictures taken. In fact, most people don't even realize that the car is tracked at all. It looks like "just another BRZ" with rims, bbk, and a drop.

I'm not sure where the 2014 will go; the bosses haven't decided yet. It'll be replacing our 2013.

Selling the chassis?

I'm not worried. My wife just got her JD and took the bar. If stuff breaks, we'll only use the legal option if we have to. Subaru has been good to us in the past. It was just the shifty dealership in Toledo we took issue with.

In case people don't know, dealers get paid a fraction of their usual labor rate for warranty work. Busy dealerships lose revenue if they're doing BIG repairs for half their usual labor and make no money on the parts. This might be why some dealerships have 'trouble' getting things covered under warranty.

You have no way of knowing what they told Subaru when the claim was sent in. If the dealer is saying warranty void, contact the manufacturer directly and provide as much documentation and evidence as possible. Save all service reciepts. If you do your own service, save all receipts for parts and fluids.

Document everything, every conversation, as soon as you start hearing that they're denying your claim. Sometimes just pulling out a voice recorder and asking to record the conversation will get things rolling. If they're hanging up on you or putting you on hold and never answering, get a video camera and record it. Depending on the state/country, you may have to get permission from the other party to record. Some states only require consent from one party, so all you have to do is pull it out and let them know you're recording the conversation so you can keep everything straight.

Determined not to drop the FT86 platform yet?

The fact that they are buying a 2014 says a lot about the chassis and handling, this car is fantastic in that area. If only people quit burying their heads in the sand the DI issue that caused all this damage can be prevented.

Notice CSG are choosing to tune a 2014 which will have the latest OEM calibration that's "supposed" to fix the issue.

The million dollar question is will CSG offer their track tune to the rest of us sorry a$$'s who don't want a Visconti tune, but want a track tune that will stand up to our lead feet ?

Not sure but I think the cat may be failing in my stock front pipe.

Just in the last couple of days I have noticed that when the engine is above 5000 rpm the exhaust makes and odd sound (almost like there is some kind of small leak).

Yesterday at idle it almost sounded like something was rattling around slightly. I parked my car in the garage and left it idling and the noise did not go away. I turned off the AC and started looking under the hood and did not hear or notice anything. Then went under the car and heard every now and then what sounded like a clinking noise.

I felt around the front pipe mid pipe connection and did not feel any exhaust leak.
I am wondering if the leak is so small that it only can be noticed under lots of pressure (when I am flooring it and the engine is above 5000rpm)?

Right now I just dont know because I am new to this stuff and not an expert. All I know is I installed my Perrin catback back in April and never noticed a thing until a few days ago. Now when I push the car and rev her up it sounds like a small exhaust leak is somewhere and I swear it sounds like something is rattling around. The noise seems to be coming from the front half of the car. Cant tell if it is directly underneath me or up more towards the engine.

I'd recommend you have a friend/gf/wife drive the car around while you sit outside listening. Also have them rev while parked, and try to determine what area of the car the noise is coming from.

Report back with results, and I'll do my best to help you diagnose.

@tennisfreak: another option.

Find out how to replicate the rattle. Have said cohort replicate it at idle (if possible), and walk around the car, shooting a video, with the camera/phone/whatever pointed toward the car.

I'm going to award this with the most ridiculous post of this thread award, for being completely oblivious and obviously not reading the thread or back story.

"sinister approach?":lol:

What's sinister is knowing there's a problem and intentionally denying warranty claims or a simple reflash to potentially fix/mitigate it. Doing your due diligence to get a warranty claim paid isn't sinister, it's common freaking sense.