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#23 |
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Registered user
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Thanks for getting involved! I hope there will be more technical data posted soon; intake replacement on low HP subarus are usually only for sound benefits.
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#24 |
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FT86Club Official Vendor
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Rotomolding also allows the designer to make complex shapes that you can't do with off the shelf materials. It does require some up front costs to make the molds, but it's well worth it to get parts that fit like a glove and look like they belong in the engine bay.
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#25 |
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This is awesome! I will definitely keep an eye out for you guys!
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#26 | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Extreme86 For This Useful Post: | Keith@AIRAID (06-13-2012) |
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#27 | |
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Quote:
Good luck with the development.
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2013 FRS - Whiteout - Slightly modified
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#28 |
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Okay, we FINALLY sent tooling files out today to get the molds made. I'm guessing about 8 weeks to machine the tooling, then we need to approve the parts and release them for production. For now here is a preliminary dyno chart just to show that we are making power and that the AFR is in line. The solid line is stock and the dashed line is our prototype. We should be good for 5-7 hp and 3-4 ft/lbs with the production parts.
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| The Following 8 Users Say Thank You to Keith@AIRAID For This Useful Post: | AJUSA.com (08-16-2012), baldolera (06-20-2012), civicdrivr (06-20-2012), LivingLegend (06-20-2012), MarkRacerX (06-21-2012), mattles (06-20-2012), nix (06-21-2012), Starscream15 (07-17-2012) |
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#29 |
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Looks good.
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#30 |
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Here is the prototype off our 3D printer installed on Matt's car. This is very close to what the production parts will look like. It uses an enclosed airbox and draws air from the stock location.
![]() And here it is on the flowbench. We decided to make the airbox mate to the factory inlet in case people did not want to take their bumper apart to remove it. ![]() To get the most airflow I recommend removing the factory inlet to let the box breathe from the space behind the bumper. It is possible to unbolt the top edge of the bumper and sneak the inlet out very carefully. We designed in a nice smooth velocity stack where it mates to the inlet which netted a couple more hp. By adding the velocity stack and removing the factory inlet, the CFM increased by 20% on the flowbench. I also stuck my hand in through the opening where the airbox breathes from and it is noticably cooler inside the bumper, so we know it is a great source for fresh, cool air.
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| The Following 7 Users Say Thank You to Keith@AIRAID For This Useful Post: | AJUSA.com (08-14-2012), baldolera (06-20-2012), civicdrivr (06-20-2012), MarkRacerX (06-20-2012), nix (06-21-2012), Smudgeous (06-24-2012), Travis (06-21-2012) |
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#31 |
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That looks pretty good, kudos to you guys!
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#32 |
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Very nice! I will keep this one in mind.
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#33 |
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I appreciate the development and hard work going into this intake and I don't doubt its functionality at all, but damn that's a BIG airbox! I'm sure the final design will look cleaner with paint and branding
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#34 |
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Sideways for 5 days!
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This is what I wanted someone to come up with when creating a intake for this car.
I don't want a tube that sits in front of the wheel! I want a air box that keeps engine heat out and lets the cool air in. |
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#35 |
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#36 |
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Lightness is a sickness
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Were the dyno runs done with or without the stock "snorkel"?
Is the velocity stack built into the airbox, or is it an add on part? So far, this looks like the intake Im going with. Im not a fan of metal intakes since they absorb heat. I love the Iceman intake on my '88 Civic, and it was a similar material to yours.
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#37 |
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Here's an early prototype without the lid so you can see the filter. It has a 120mm (4 3/4") opening and attaches to the MAF housing. This is a new filter that we tooled up for specifically for the FR-S. I wanted to fit the biggest filter possible so it required an odd size.
![]() We effectively split the intake tube and moved part of it inside the airbox due to packaging constraints. I've never seen an intake that does that, but it looks pretty cool and it works well. Also note that since the part is rotomolded we were able to hit a very specific diameter at the MAF sensor to dial in the calibration. No tune required! ![]() This is why I recommend removing the stock inlet. It more than doubles the size of the opening the intake is drawing air from. ![]() If you leave the inlet in, this is what the cross section looks like. Not bad, but it could be better.
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#38 | |
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We did both, but the chart I posted is stock with the snorkel VS Airaid without snorkel. That was the ideal configuration.
Quote:
I believe Iceman intakes were also rotomolded, which would use the same Crosslinked Polyethelene that we use. Last edited by Keith@AIRAID; 06-20-2012 at 04:57 PM. Reason: typo |
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#39 |
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Did you guys think about making a better designed inlet to compliment your system? That way you still get fresher air (like stock) but with better flow.
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#40 |
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Very cool! Thanks for explaining the big design!
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#41 |
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We are getting air from the front bumper just like stock, so there is no need to add an inlet because it's all the same air. The factory inlet only exists to house the Helmholtz resonators that control noise.
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#42 |
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just a quick check-in, still running the latest prototype, sound tube delete, OEM front bumper 'snorkel' removed -- and I still love it.
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#43 | |
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Quote:
I misunderstood when you said "no inlet," thinking it was left totally open to the engine bay. |
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#44 |
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Why not a plastic lid? After all that effort to keep temperature down using polyethylene it seems a shame to add a metal lid to soak and radiate heat down into the box.
BTW this is the best designed intake for this car I've seen so far. Sealed systems with all the filter surface area and flow of a cone system is the best combination. |
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