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Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing.


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Old 08-19-2013, 10:58 PM   #1
Dezoris
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AP Racing Essex Brake Install Review Video | 1 of 2


The Essex Sprint Brake Install Video Review





VIDEO INSTALL REVIEW:
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E4L76zkREUE"]Scion FR-S BRZ AP Racing Brake Install Review | Essex Sprint Kit - YouTube[/ame]


INTRODUCTION


Welcome to the install review thread for the AP Racing Sprint Brake Kit install by Essex.

Included in Kit:
  • AP CP3862 Rotor x2
  • AP CP8350 Caliper x2
  • Speigler Stainless Lines x2
  • Aluminum Brackets
  • Mounting Hardware
  • Documentation
  • Choice of Pads +25$
We chose Essex for our build because they purchased a BRZ to build this kit properly and did not just retro fit a WRX brake setup like most companies. To us this was this was a mantra for our build.



The installation was the easiest of any build we have done largely thanks to world class documentation from Jeff Ritter at Essex.
@JRitt





TO VIEW THE INSTALL PDF CLICK HERE

We knew this kit was one of the most tested on track by guys like @CSG Mike FT86speed and more. So it was a safe bet that we would have zero issues with brake anxiety during our Vortech Finale track video.

However one thing is different for us, we are not vendors, we have nothing to sell and we want a balanced street and track car that raises little questions. So will the AP Sprint Kit fit that bill?







Installation

As soon as we unpacked the kit from Essex it there was a sense of relief that this was not a typical big brake kit. This was not a show car kit. While certainly it looks good, it's function over form. We quickly compared the brakes, hardware and calipers to full race setups and oem replacement rotors.

We found not only was it lighter but it had the same disk width and ventilation characteristics from Turbowski's World Challenge 911 brake setup.
Weight loss is 10lbs per wheel compared to the stock brakes.







Installation was as simple as washing the rotors by hand to remove anti corrosion oils. We left them in the dishwasher rack to dry which made our GE Appliance look more professional.





We followed the instructions and had zero issues, although we did question our brake line install a bit as we were extra careful not to have any binding which is easy while the car is in the air with no wheels but under load is more difficult. Those who install the Speigler lines take extra car to check lines while car is on the ground, doing lock to lock turns. This was the only area of the documentation that was lacking.

After installation we did some research on costs of replacement parts and found that the rotors were around $160 to replace which puts you close to the cost of most higher end aftermarket pieces. Its highly unlikely you will shock these rotors enough to destroy them even running 10 track days a year. Caliper rebuilds were also affordable. Send them to Essex and it will cost you at most $120 plus shipping for factory fresh pieces.






There are two bleeders on each caliper which can take more time to bleed the system however, the ease of changing pads is stupid simple as we show in the video. That said make sure you have extra brake fluid as bleeding the new AP calipers push threw 2x as much fluid when bleeding as the stock units.

We Chose 3 Pads:

Ferodo DS2500 as an intermediate street and track pad front and rear.
Ferodo DSUno as a front track pad with DS2500 in the rear.
Project Mu 999 as a race/track pad front and rear.

So we have an overkill situation, and the problem remains that all of these will hold up on a track in various situations. In fact our DS2500 worked perfect for our lower speed track at Autobahn South with zero fade. However we have doubts about their ability to stay silent on the street. So we are working with Counterspace Garage to exchange our XP10s for the 1521s for street duty.




During install Turbowski is very anal about preparing the hub and cleaning the brakes. If you notice this car has a pretty nasty surface rust issue if you run it daily in moisture, or winters. It gets bad fast so if you are like us clean it up before mounting the rotors and calipers.




We continued to finish the install and bedded the brake pads which is critical to making sure the system works properly and quietly. Jeff from Essex has a page dedicated to how to do that. Also @Mike CSG can give you further tips for track as well as special ways to do this with race pads. Either one of these guys can help, with @JRitt being the god on the topic after countless years of experience.

So after owning a Lotus Exige and Atom both with AP Racing brakes, I knew and had high expectations for this kit.



After installation and bedding, even on the street this kit was by far one of the best investments we made. Having a good pad on the factory brakes was absolutely nothing on how the AP kit feels and stops. Even with the less aggressive DS2500 pads. We now had the brakes of a real sports car.
I would easily put the on par with the AP stopping power on the Exige for the street.

We had Automobile Magazine drive our car for an upcoming issue and a pro driver on the track. No one, who has driven this car had anything remotely negative to say about the braking system. And it comes down to one thing. While brakes may not be the highlight of a sports car, it can certainly cripple one if they don't work properly.





CONCLUSION

During our review after 2 hours on the track and over 10 hours road testing, this kit was by far one of my favorite useful changes to the FR-S/BRZ. If anyone is in the market for brake upgrades for track. Save the money for this kit and don't waste it buying several types of rotors and pads. We did that, and no setup compared to this.

Well there has to be some negatives right? You bet. The calipers do not have dust boots. What that means is if you live in an area with high levels of salt in the winter or in dusty off road conditions, you will destroy the caliper seals and will need to have them rebuilt. The question is what is the alternative?






We are going to swap back to stock front calipers for the winter which should be about an hour swap plus bleeding time. Or we could run them and rebuild them for safety in the spring.

The bottom line is when you dump money on your car you want items that show a high level of return, have a story behind them and people who support and know the platform. This kit meets all of those requirements from us.

We highly recommend it, no BS.



Support and Products Provided By:
ESSEX WEBSITE WITH FULL PRODUCT DETAILS
COUNTERSPACE GARAGE
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Last edited by Dezoris; 08-19-2013 at 11:54 PM.
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:59 PM   #2
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Old 08-19-2013, 11:00 PM   #3
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Man... and our 1 year review is just about finished... beat me to the punch!
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Old 08-19-2013, 11:05 PM   #4
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Man... and our 1 year review is just about finished... beat me to the punch!

I am sure yours will be better.
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Old 08-19-2013, 11:25 PM   #5
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So I am not the only one with extensive corrosion on the hubs. I have had two studs snap off and the rotors were nearly seized into place. Had to actually follow the factory recommendation and thread a couple bolts through the two holes in order to push the rotor away.
Looking at buying this kit as well. Came off the track yesterday, running Hawk +/ HPS combo and the brakes were smoking like a chimney even after the cool down lap.
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Old 08-19-2013, 11:26 PM   #6
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Excellent choice. You really make me want to get this. Drop in slotted rotors, pads, lines, and fluid will have to do for now.

Thanks again for putting in all this effort for us.
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Old 08-19-2013, 11:34 PM   #7
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So I am not the only one with extensive corrosion on the hubs. I have had two studs snap off and the rotors were nearly seized into place. Had to actually follow the factory recommendation and thread a couple bolts through the two holes in order to push the rotor away.
Looking at buying this kit as well. Came off the track yesterday, running Hawk +/ HPS combo and the brakes were smoking like a chimney even after the cool down lap.
Let us know when you're ready
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Old 08-19-2013, 11:42 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Deep Six View Post
So I am not the only one with extensive corrosion on the hubs. I have had two studs snap off and the rotors were nearly seized into place. Had to actually follow the factory recommendation and thread a couple bolts through the two holes in order to push the rotor away.
Looking at buying this kit as well. Came off the track yesterday, running Hawk +/ HPS combo and the brakes were smoking like a chimney even after the cool down lap.
Yeah after winter last year it was a joke. Did not break studs yet but the rotor was frozen on. The car is definitely going to be a rust bucket down the road if you deal with winters.

As far as the brakes, the stock brakes just can't dissipate heat like these, learned my lesson.
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Old 08-19-2013, 11:43 PM   #9
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Excellent choice. You really make me want to get this. Drop in slotted rotors, pads, lines, and fluid will have to do for now.

Thanks again for putting in all this effort for us.
Yeah its about cost for sure. But since we have the same setup I am sure either you will copy me or I will copy you.
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Old 08-19-2013, 11:50 PM   #10
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So I am not the only one with extensive corrosion on the hubs. I have had two studs snap off and the rotors were nearly seized into place. Had to actually follow the factory recommendation and thread a couple bolts through the two holes in order to push the rotor away.
Looking at buying this kit as well. Came off the track yesterday, running Hawk +/ HPS combo and the brakes were smoking like a chimney even after the cool down lap.
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Originally Posted by Dezoris View Post
Yeah after winter last year it was a joke. Did not break studs yet but the rotor was frozen on. The car is definitely going to be a rust bucket down the road if you deal with winters.

As far as the brakes, the stock brakes just can't dissipate heat like these, learned my lesson.
I had to clean my hubs very thoroughly as well. At least one rotor needed to be knocked off with a deadblow hammer.

Didn't watch the video yet, but did you coat the hub and inside of the hat with anti-seize?
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Old 08-19-2013, 11:56 PM   #11
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I had to clean my hubs very thoroughly as well. At least one rotor needed to be knocked off with a deadblow hammer.

Didn't watch the video yet, but did you coat the hub and inside of the hat with anti-seize?
Yes we placed it on the hubs which we did not show.
But definitely recommended as you said.
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Old 08-19-2013, 11:57 PM   #12
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good review and slightly entertaining.
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Old 08-20-2013, 12:01 AM   #13
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good review and slightly entertaining.
Thanks, we cut out over 5 minutes of just raw stupidity, profanity and more mostly because we really liked this product and that was rare for us.
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Old 08-20-2013, 12:08 AM   #14
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Yes we placed it on the hubs which we did not show.
But definitely recommended as you said.
I enjoy your threads, thanks Dezoris.
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