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Electronics | Audio | NAV | Infotainment Anything related to in-car electronics, navigation, and infotainment.


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Old 11-11-2012, 12:06 AM   #57
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Finished my install, used a Rydeen Mini and the head unit connector from http://ae64.com/Ordering.htm (David at SVXdc is great ).

I took my time pulling the trim clips out and the project took about 4.5 hours. The only things I would add to the other walk throughs is:
1) A metric deep socket set is helpful to remove the BRZ fascia.
2) Trim removal tools help (http://goo.gl/NTH6n)
3) Watch out for the area behind the head unit has some sharp metal brackets. I cut my hand in two places feeding the RCA cable

I wanted to thank everyone who did all of the hard work of posting pictures and write-ups of their installs and answering my questions. I would not have been able to do this project without your help.

Cheers
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Old 11-11-2012, 12:12 PM   #58
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A step by step DIY would be nice, I'm not sure if anyone has one of these in the works yet. I know most of the info's available in multiple posts but it's piecemeal and easy to miss something important.
I think this is going to be a popular mod on the BRZ especially since the functionality is pretty much there, just need to wire the camera.

When I get my parts together, I'll try to take a bunch of pictures and try to do a start to finish DIY.

There seems to be a lot of people doing this mod, so maybe we could put together a DIY thread with links and best practices/suggestions from the users who've already installed the camera to help out someone new?

Just a thought... thanks again to everyone who's contributed so far.
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:03 PM   #59
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Duo installed... Thx to all for the helpful posts... 3 hours was about right for install (power tap/ground from amp remote) .. Center mounted the cam and was able to adjust the lines to near center..
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Old 11-23-2012, 11:31 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sure74 View Post
Yes you have to delete them. The camera has 2 sets of wires that come cut, the green set when
connected activates the camera line delete. I soldered the green wires and covered them with a
small piece of heat shrink tubing (not pictured).


I just want to make sure and make no mistakes. Looking at your picture, I would just cover them up and thats it? Nothing else is needed?


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I'd move it to the amp power, it is the darker of the green wires on the bigger plug
(next to the red wire which is power for the camera).

You have any idea what wire gauge is it? I am looking to get a wire tap but want to make sure I get proper size (12/14/16/20/22)

Thanks for the great write up, it has helped me decide
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Old 11-26-2012, 09:44 AM   #61
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@sure74 or anyone else can help me answer my question on the previous post?

Thanks.
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Old 11-26-2012, 11:34 PM   #62
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I have a Curb-Alert for that. It's a proximity sensor with an audible alert.
Sounds interesting -- Which system are you using specifically?
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Old 11-27-2012, 06:38 AM   #63
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Sounds interesting -- Which system are you using specifically?
Curb-Alert Mini

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Old 11-27-2012, 11:57 AM   #64
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Curb-Alert Mini

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@Foobar -- Thank you sir.

BTW, for those who are interested, I found this to be the best price on the Curb-alert system. It's on sale with free shipping for the holiday.

http://www.curb-alert.com/order.php
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Old 11-27-2012, 12:47 PM   #65
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@Foobar -- Thank you sir.

BTW, for those who are interested, I found this to be the best price on the Curb-alert system. It's on sale with free shipping for the holiday.

http://www.curb-alert.com/order.php
Just an FYI - $149.99 is pretty much what everyone sells it at. I can't disclose who I purchased mine from, but I was trying to get a group buy going for FT86Club and with ten orders, we could've gotten it down to $119.99. I didn't get any interest at the time, and the forum was going through some changes with regard to vendor requirements on any commercial sales, so I dropped the inquiry. I ended up buying a couple for my own cars though, and still got it for less than $149.99, so you may want to see if anyone is willing to negotiate on price before buying.
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Old 11-29-2012, 07:04 AM   #66
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@SVXdc

Hey Dave, I am doing my install tomorrow and I was wondering, what power sources can I use to test my camera? I have a 19.2 Volts Li-ion tool battery, but I'm concerned its too much Voltage and would damage the camera. Aside from that, I have a car battery charger I could use and the car battery itself. (Car battery would be ideal I guess, just trying to see if other options work).

Thanks.
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Old 11-29-2012, 01:13 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sportsguy83 View Post
@SVXdc

Hey Dave, I am doing my install tomorrow and I was wondering, what power sources can I use to test my camera? I have a 19.2 Volts Li-ion tool battery, but I'm concerned its too much Voltage and would damage the camera. Aside from that, I have a car battery charger I could use and the car battery itself. (Car battery would be ideal I guess, just trying to see if other options work).

Thanks.
Just use the power from the car. If you have a spare car battery that would be fine also. Why risk blowing out your new camera?

Also, not sure what gauge the wires at the factory amp are.
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Old 11-29-2012, 01:16 PM   #68
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Quote:
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Just use the power from the car. If you have a spare car battery that would be fine also. Why risk blowing out your new camera?

Also, not sure what gauge the wires at the factory amp are.
Oh yeah, I plan on using the car's battery. I was just trying to know if it was possible doing it with a higher Volt source without damaging it, and without having to move a TV to the garage.
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Old 11-29-2012, 05:42 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by Sportsguy83 View Post
Hey Dave, I am doing my install tomorrow and I was wondering, what power sources can I use to test my camera? I have a 19.2 Volts Li-ion tool battery, but I'm concerned its too much Voltage and would damage the camera. Aside from that, I have a car battery charger I could use and the car battery itself. (Car battery would be ideal I guess, just trying to see if other options work).
Yeah, 19.2 is probably a bit high. I wouldn't use that.

First, look around your house -- you might find you have something with an A/C adapter ("wall wart") that supplies 12 V.

Or you can pick up an adapter that plugs into a cigarette lighter outlet and has plain wires. Walmart has those fairly cheap. You might have a device sitting around your house that has that kind of plug to run the device in your car (just make sure the plug doesn't contain circuitry to drop the voltage to something less than 12 Volts).

If you're careful, you can take two pieces of small-gauge stranded wire, strip the ends, and shove one end of each wire into the rear of your factory radio harness (on the pins for +12V and ground).

For everyone else who's wondering why he asked about this -- I've heard from more than a few people who received bad cameras (usually the no-name Chinese ones from eBay). Some have arrived completely dead. Others were PAL even though they were labeled and sold as NTSC (Subaru's HU requires NTSC, even in countries that use PAL for TV). And some died just a few days after being installed.

So I recommend people first test the camera on a TV or monitor. Then test the camera using my harness but before installing the camera's long wire and definitely before drilling any holes or cutting any wires. That will make it much easier to return the camera if it doesn't work. Plus, your next camera may need a different size hole.

For a no-name camera, I would even go as far as temporarily clipping the camera to your license plate (or inside your rear window, if you're worried about it getting stolen), and simply string the cable over/around the seats into the trunk. Then drive around with it a few days, to make sure it doesn't die.
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:23 PM   #70
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Yeah, 19.2 is probably a bit high. I wouldn't use that.....
David, thank you so much for your always kind help.

Have a great night.

Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk 2
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