Drop in filters.

[Axis2011KR]

I opted for a drop in since I'll be swapping the motor next year and didn't want to waste a few hundred for a full intake knowing that ahead of time.

I went with the K&N for about $40 and it made a noticeable improvement on the butt dyno and picked up about .5 mpg as well over the stock filter.

[radroach]

@Aluma007 For a high flowing dry filter, I think you'd only want to run for track use only or for short term in only clean-driving environments. Oil analysis shows that silicon content is directly connected to how well your air filter works. No these aren't washable or reusable.

[86MLR]

The 17+ are dry paper elements.

[Bonburner]

Overall most aftermarket air intake systems mostly did nothing-worsen HP. Some even brought up CELs.

Drop In Filters were all comparable 2~5 hp (practically noise from various runs, heat soaking, etc.).

Some dry drop in filters are washable. ie. https://afepower.com/media/pdp-files/31-10094-1-is.pdf

Oils are washable as well. And no, its not once week or month. The environment you use it in and the number of miles you drive plays a large factor on how often you wash it. aFe oil says to wash your oiled filter every 30,000-50,000 miles. If you drive less than that, then aFe suggests you inspect the filter once a year for sufficient oil (blue color is the oil).

Why did I mention aFe? Because that's what I'm using and too lazy to look up other brand suggestions.

[chipmunk]

I read on Yamaha forums that the intake filters can be oiled using 2-stroke engine oil (based on the assumption that 2-stroke oil can be safely mixed with gasoline for combustion). Can anyone confirm this?

I used 2-stroke oil on my bike with no issues, but my R6 doesn't have any O2 sensors.

[Bonburner]

Originally Posted by chipmunk

I read on Yamaha forums that the intake filters can be oiled using 2-stroke engine oil (based on the assumption that 2-stroke oil can be safely mixed with gasoline for combustion). Can anyone confirm this?

I used 2-stroke oil on my bike with no issues, but my R6 doesn't have any O2 sensors.

But why? Oiled filter manufacturers provides cleaning kit with fresh oil. And its not expensive.

[chipmunk]

Originally Posted by Bonburner

But why? Oiled filter manufacturers provides cleaning kit with fresh oil. And its not expensive.

After hearing about K&N-MAF issues, it felt like a safe option.

In hindsight, I'll be switching back to dry OEM style filter for both soon. Trying to eek out 2 or 3 hp from the engine that makes no difference in real life.... is not worth it for me. Heck, if I really wanted every single one of those few extra HPs, I should have bought a used MR2, RX8, Elise... or even a Camaro 2.0T!

[Axis2011KR]

Originally Posted by chipmunk

After hearing about K&N-MAF issues, it felt like a safe option.

I'm not saying when you clean it and re-oil it that you couldn't go overboard and cause issues but with a brand new filter I've never heard of it happening and have not experienced anything like this personally.

I've run them on cars from 140whp-550whp. I run one on my FR-S (drop in), ran them on both of my Evo X's full intake style with bolt ons and E85, and run one on my modded F-250 Diesel also full intake style. I've probably put close to 350k miles on aftermarket oiled filters between all my vehicles that have run them and never had a single issue.

You've got a far better chance of damaging your MAF by banging it around during an install of an aftermarket intake then by having blow by oil from the filter.

[Breadman]

Originally Posted by 86MLR

The 17+ are dry paper elements.

The surface area on these are so much better than before

[Bonburner]

Originally Posted by chipmunk

After hearing about K&N-MAF issues, it felt like a safe option.

In hindsight, I'll be switching back to dry OEM style filter for both soon. Trying to eek out 2 or 3 hp from the engine that makes no difference in real life.... is not worth it for me. Heck, if I really wanted every single one of those few extra HPs, I should have bought a used MR2, RX8, Elise... or even a Camaro 2.0T!

that only really happens to people that over oil their filters.

There also appears to be some misunderstanding as to how frequently you need to clean and re-oil the filter. I've seen people post how they have to do it weekly. The time right after re-oiling poses the greatest risk of oil splattering on the MAF sensors. These situations are probably where you're hearing the horror stories - people Incorrectly using the products.

Honestly you save a good deal of money using washable filters like your K&N. If you're Really paranoid you can use washable dry filters.

[kevaughan]

Just grabbed the K&N drop in filter too. I'm in it for the butt dyno improvements.

[JIM THEO]

I use K&N drop in filters since 2000 on Impreza GT, WRX, STI, EVO6, Suzukis and now on BRZ.
Most important is the oiling procedure and the first few kms after oiling, I used to oil the filter slightly, let it in absorbing paper for 1-2 days and finally blow with air gun for any remaining extra oil.
Then I fit it and drive smoothly the first few mins just to be sure it wouldn't hurt my MAF.
So far no problem in any of my previous cars!

[kevaughan]

-snip-


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[Aluma007]

Originally Posted by 86MLR

The 17+ are dry paper elements.

the 17+ AT use the previous years rounded corner elements...I'd probably of kept the OEM one if it had the new versions.