King Tut's Full Blown Turbo BRZ WRB

[Jive Turkey]

that basically what i'm running! but i think you have 5mm more of tire. which really isn't anything special.

+45 would be sunk unless you run 0 camber.

you're on coilovers or just springs, this should fit like a glove!

[King Tut]

I would rather have sunk then rubbing. I am on BC coilovers.

[humanshield]

love this WRB. looks amazing.

[ebphoto]

car looks soo good..
need to shoot soon.

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by ebphoto

car looks soo good..
need to shoot soon.

I'm waiting on you. Reminds me I need to post the shots from Summer Stance. Will do that today.

[King Tut]

Pics of the car at the Summer Stance meet with the new Advans:

[GTB/ZR-1]

MONSTROUS--looks awesome!

[FullBlown]

Damm the car looks good.

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by FullBlown

Damm the car looks good.

Thanks LJ. It is getting there.

[GuerillaRacing]

Holy cow, this build rocks! And for it to be close to us in Jax -- we might have to check this out in person!

[mit_peid]

Love the WRB BRZ and everything you've done with it. It is extremely clean, everything looks right and a little understated (I like it), and all the decisions on which parts to use seems to complement each other. Well done my friend.

[King Tut]

Wanted to update this thread with my opinons on the Full Blown oil cooler kit. The majority of the pieces are off the shelf Mocal items and your standard AN oil lines. The only truly custom piece is the mounting bracket for the outside of the oil cooler that connects under the passenger side headlight. This is similar to the Perrin kit that only contains stand offs for the bottom of the oil cooler. I was e-mailed a set of directions, and they had good pictures that made sure I knew where things were supposed to go and made recommendations such as using high temp sealant on the fittings going into the oil cooler instead of teflon tape (which I usually use).

You will need to take special care when mounting the oil cooler to make sure that you leave clearance for the driver side fitting on top of the oil cooler. It is very close to the bracing that comes out and holds the bumper bar. I would recommend you install the fittings on to the oil cooler before mounting it and tightening everything down. The driver side of the oil cooler mounts to a hole in the bottom radiator core support. That happens to be the hole that the Full Blown turbo kit uses to remount the horn. The instructions didn't mention that, but I just relocated it to the bolt that holds the A/C condensor to the radiator. The only real downside to the kit was that both oil lines were about a foot too long. I had to take each AN fitting apart and cut the lines to the proper length and reassemble. Since the kit tells you exactly where to run the lines, I would have expected them to be the correct length, but I understand a little flexibility for possibly needing to modify that routing. At the end of the day, the kit fits great and had no leaks:

[King Tut]

Here are the final dyno numbers for my car with what Toni @FA20Club.com could do with it. I set my EBC back to wastegate pressure and Toni got started. We did about 6 runs and had beat those numbers at less than 10 psi. Then we started turning up the boost and ended up with some great numbers at 12.5 psi. I was super happy with the results, the torque curve was huge and flat, and Toni had beaten my goals which were 300 hp and 240 ft-lbs. The final results of the day were:

322 hp
265 ft-lbs
12.5 PSI
Dynojet SAE Corrected

The dyno runs were all done in 90F degree heat with typical Florida humidity and rain showers throughout the 3 hours the car spent on the dyno. Now on to everyone's favorite part. DYNO PLOTS!!!

Dyno Plots:

First up we have a comparison of my @Visconti tune and the final @FA20Club.com tune:



You will see that Toni beat John's tune pretty much everywhere with less PSI. The only real advantage of John's tune was that it uses a lean spool and was making about 1 PSI more before peak boost. Here is a comparison of the boost and AFR curves:



You will note the weirdness in the boost curve at around 6000 RPM. These logs are from my AEM Failsafe gauge, and it always seems to have these weird areas where it gives results like that, but my EcuTek logs normally don't show those large swings in boost.

Videos:

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dctrsYvPTGE"]King Tut's Subaru BRZ Full Blown Turbo FA20Club.com Dyno - YouTube[/ame]

[King Tut]

Here you go @Sportsguy83 . This is what you don't want to do, add up the costs. Here are the majority of the costs to duplicate my car (approx):

Full Blown Turbo Kit $4,900
Full 08-12 STI Brake Swap $2,200
Advan RG-D 18" Wheels $2,800
Michelin Pilot Super Sports $1,000
BC Coilovers $900
EcuTek Cable and License $625
Visconti Tune $600
FA20Club.com Tune $500
ACT Clutch and Flywheel $600
Detail and Optiguard $675
FBM Oil Cooler $600
FBM Radiator $300
APR Brake Cooling Vents $300
GFB Electronic Boost Controller $300
Cusco Rear Camber Arms $525
JDL Overpipe and Midpipe $450
RAYS Lugs and Advan Center Caps $350
AEM Wideband/Boost Failsafe Gauge $300
D3PE Catch Can $300
Perrin Antenna, Bushings, and Shift Knob $180
PTP Turbo Blanket $150
MSL Single Gauge Pod A Pillar $100

TOTAL $18,655