Racecomp Superstreet-1?

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Velisma

Yeah, I figured as much. The thought passed through my mind to use my impact but I guess I was worried that it might possibly strip due to how thin the bolt is/what little threading it has and not sure how soft the metal is. Alright, simple enough. I'll give that a try. Thanks!

An air gun will always make me very nervous for tightening that nut. Electric impact a lot less so.

- Andrew

[KevBRZ]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

You can drive the car with the swaybar disconnected... Slap one stock endlink on to make sure it doesn't flop around.

I lost a nut on an endlink, drove the car for three weeks (two autox events) before noticing when I swapped wheels and tires, totally explained the odd turn in behavior, I hit a few cones those events...

LOL yeah, the only concern i have is one coilover on passenger side with no link and stock strut on drivers side with link connected so wasn't sure how that would play out and working 60 + hours a week is killing me, starting to think about putting the car up for sale due to no time to work on it nor race it. i've been off from racing for 3 years and i think i tried to come back too early.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by autoxtrackdrift

I have a Perrin 22mm front bar paired with the SS-1s. I re-used some Whiteline KLC 180-195 end links, which were quiet for the first 1,000 miles and two autocrosses on old street tires. The springs must have taken a set, however, because the bar started contacting the body/pinch weld in the middle of a road trip.


What's Racecomp's recommendation for adjustable end links? I figured I would ask since it takes a bit of time to get the end links set up and clearanced properly.

Recheck the endlinks now, as the nuts have a tendency to back off over time (unless precautions are taken).

Also, make sure your doing your final length setting with the suspension loaded.

Every swaybar/coilover/endlink combo is a little different and can be annoying to get right. But your combo right now should be good as long as everything is properly torqued and the lengths are set correctly with the suspension loaded.

- Andrew

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by KevBRZ

i bought Racer x front end links but not sure if i got the wrong set shipped or not, even fully extended to the point of over extended with only a few threads holding they were 3/4 of an inch shorter than stock ones. i wasn't able to fit them on the SS1 front struts due to not long enough, not sure if its because i am on jack stands or not. i do have stock sway bar. i just sent them a message, its starting to look like its gonna be up on jackstands for another week.

Responded to your PM.

With stock swaybar, stock endlinks work just fine on SS1s.

- Andrew

[Pat]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

An air gun will always make me very nervous for tightening that nut. Electric impact a lot less so.

- Andrew

Yes, great point. I indeed used an electric impact gun. That's what I should have said. I appreciate the correction.

[KevBRZ]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Responded to your PM.

With stock swaybar, stock endlinks work just fine on SS1s.

- Andrew

Thanks Andrew, i just got an email back from racer x , i didn't realize they were for lowered cars, when i installed the passenger SS1 coilover i had the adjuster dialed almost to the bottom of the strut so maybe that made it to tall? Sorry if this is a dumb question lol, i am new to this coilover stuff. i looking to be around 1 to 1.25 inch drop or so. i had about 1 inch of thread left at the bottom.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by KevBRZ

Thanks Andrew, i just got an email back from racer x , i didn't realize they were for lowered cars, when i installed the passenger SS1 coilover i had the adjuster dialed almost to the bottom of the strut so maybe that made it to tall? Sorry if this is a dumb question lol, i am new to this coilover stuff. i looking to be around 1 to 1.25 inch drop or so. i had about 1 inch of thread left at the bottom.

For help setting ride height help, check this post:

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Also, I'm finalizing the set up guide document but thought I'd post some quick tips here:

Camber plate
You should be able to get around -2 degrees of camber with an extra set of the OEM camber bolts while leaving the camber plate in the middle (as it is from the factory). I recommend maxing out the slotted lower mount first before adjusting the camber plates. The camber plates should be set even side to side.

Ride height
If you set the front spring perch at 50 mm from bottom and the rear perch 90 mm from bottom, you should be near a 25 mm (or 1 inch) drop. All cars are different and also the drivers rear is usually a little lower, so it will take some fine tuning. A 25 mm drop is the recommended starting point. However, there is a lot of travel and we've run these lower with good results. A little bit of forward rake can also be helpful for some users.

Damper settings
These coilovers adjust rebound damping with minimal crosstalk to compression. Rebound damping can be thought of as the force the damper exerts to resist shock extension. For these shocks, the rebound adjustment mostly alters the low and mid-speed part of the rebound curve with some effect on high speed. High speed rebound remains digressive at both softer and stiffer settings, so the ride should never be punishing.

Recommended street settings:
14 clicks from stiff front
16 clicks from stiff rear

Recommended track/autocross settings:
8 clicks from stiff front
10 clicks from stiff rear

These settings are guidelines. You may find a firmer or softer street setting to work better for you. Some may like firmer track settings for even sharper response. Those with stiffer swaybars may also want to add a click or two or rebound for the track. Handling characteristics can be altered with the adjuster, but large changes in set up should be undertaken through other means (alignment, tire pressures, ride height, spring rate, etc.). The damper adjustment is a good way to control ride and handling transitions such as corner entry and exit, but they are not for controlling overall mid-corner balance. Think about when each shock is extending, and how changing those forces will change how each tire reacts through a corner.

Maintenance
If your roads are salted in the winter, a simple wipe down in the spring should keep everything fresh for a long time.

[autoxtrackdrift]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Recheck the endlinks now, as the nuts have a tendency to back off over time (unless precautions are taken).

Also, make sure your doing your final length setting with the suspension loaded.

Every swaybar/coilover/endlink combo is a little different and can be annoying to get right. But your combo right now should be good as long as everything is properly torqued and the lengths are set correctly with the suspension loaded.

- Andrew

Hi Andrew,


The car had my weight in it and its suspension was loaded on the scales when I set up the end links. I drove it and cycled its suspension on rough streets to verify there was no contact, which was why I was confused when the contact between the bar and the body started. All of the fasteners had been torqued and marked, and were still properly torqued when I checked them yesterday. The only thing that could have changed was the loaded spring height.


I think I know where to start now - I'll put the car back on the scales to see if anything else moved.


Thanks.

[KevBRZ]

It was user error on the racer x end links It was just a matter of fiddling around a bit with them, hoping to have them buttoned up by friday and rears to be done saturday! Racer x has been great BTW with communicating etc about the issues!! Great company!

[Velisma]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

An air gun will always make me very nervous for tightening that nut. Electric impact a lot less so.

- Andrew

Definitely. 15ft/lbs isn't quite as much as people think it is. I used a small electric, harbor freight special w/ a 3/8th drive to torque it by tapping the trigger 2-3 times. Good to go.

[Racecomp Engineering]

I've been on stock suspension for the past couple weeks, and it's annoying.

The SS1s definitely ride better. There's construction downtown (there's basically always construction downtown) and 1 area with a sharp edge due to resurfacing has me cringing before impact. I didn't have to do that with the SS1s.

- Andrew

[Capt Spaulding]

It's really too bad they can't/don't machine a flat into the very top of the shaft (out of the seal wipe zone) to let you secure the shaft. Even such a flat at the very top of the shaft (the threaded part) would help.

[Decep]

For me ride is not MORE comfortable, but definitely not much worse. For a LOT better handling/dynamics.

[Velisma]

@Racecomp Engineering



Okay, so I just installed these today. Very easy, straight forward install BUT... I did notice a slight manufacture defect. I don't think it's a biggie but wanted to make sure just in case. The passenger front coilover top slotted mounting points for the hubs isn't the same as the driver side. Top driver side bolt installed back same as stock but I had to flip the passenger side stepped bolt the other way in order to insert it. It's all torqued to spec and I don't see it being a big deal but just wanted to be sure. Thoughts?