follow ft86club on our blog, twitter or facebook.
FT86CLUB
Ft86Club
Delicious Tuning
Register Garage Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Go Back   Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB > Technical Topics > Engine, Exhaust, Transmission

Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.


User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-04-2019, 12:24 PM   #1
Gam3rBlue
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Drives: Scion-FR-S
Location: Canada
Posts: 19
Thanks: 15
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Cool Possible FRS Set-Up

I have been doing quite a bit of research, which will probably not end, however from what I have found this is my possible set up for my FR-S.


(Hopefully I got the right topic area)


Please let me know what you guys think of it, and if, you think there is anything I should add in or swap out and why. I am looking to build my FR-S into a Drift car, which I know there is a lot that needs to go into that, but this is a beginning look at that.


- Edelbrock Supercharger E-Force ( Will upgrade to 3" stage 2 pulleys) and boost around 10 psi?


-Deatscwerks 300c Fuel Pump


-Deatscwerks 700c Port injectors


-Delicious MK1-Flex flue kit / Delicious edelbrock tune


-Jackson Racing dual radiator oil cooler


-ACT SB7-HDSS clutch or South Bend Stage 2 endurance Clutch ?


- not sure if a cold air intake is necessary ( haven't seem people really posting about it ) but I was looking at a Perrin cold air


- JDL EL 4-2-1 Header


- Nameless catted down pipe


- Perrin exhaust ( Was gonna do nameless from header back but wife likes the Perrin sound better )


From what I figure This will put my FR-S around 350whp with 245wtq on E85. Now I have read 350+ HP on stock block is pushing it and the longevity of the engine, So I am thinking ill have to change some internals? Correct me if I am wrong.


Transmissions seem to be a nightmare once your pushing FI and high HP, so I was looking at getting the Jackson racing Performances Trans Build. ( Let me know if that's worth it )


And; I have read a few people saying with Boost its good to switch out your rear Dif to something better like the IS300. ( Don't know if this also applies to SC or just turbo ) Let me know bros.!


Cheers,
Gam3rBlue is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2019, 12:49 PM   #2
churchx
Senior Member
 
churchx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Drives: 2014 GT86
Location: Latvia, Riga
Posts: 4,333
Thanks: 696
Thanked 2,085 Times in 1,436 Posts
Mentioned: 53 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Hmm .. maybe given above average power target think of also grippier wheels/tires setup and more capable then stock brakes, or you are not going to track it ever?

Also if choosing catback for specific sound, take note that different headers/pipes between change overall result, so suggest to seek samples of similar to your combo, not just for eg. perrin catback videos/recordings in general. Just that seen cases when some catback was fine with rest stock, but too loud or with extra drone, once later on catless header was added to mix, and then users searched for another catback to buy/install, to address loudness/droning issues.
churchx is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to churchx For This Useful Post:
Gam3rBlue (09-05-2019), Leonardo (09-04-2019)
Old 09-04-2019, 01:03 PM   #3
Gam3rBlue
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Drives: Scion-FR-S
Location: Canada
Posts: 19
Thanks: 15
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Yes better wheel / Tire set up for sure and brakes. ( I actually ran out of room on my post so I did not include some stuff )but ya some kind of Light weight / durable wheel that will take the Drift force. and I have not really looked or found good brakes what would be needed for drifting. That will be further research.


I am not sure if I will track it, I mean, There is a track right beside my house so the odd are I probably well. It would be a good way to see how everything runs and flows together with out putting it through drifting and having something blow.


You are right about the Exhaust, though , it is hard to find the exact set up I want. That's why I went with JDL headers with full nameless cause after the fact sounded nice but my wife thinks its too loud so she wanted the perrin which is a bit softer. But it could be just as loud with everything else lol . Ether way I am not to picky on the exhaust there all good brands and more or less give the same out-put, the most important thing is the JDL headers. Let me know if any one has this Exhaust set up!
Gam3rBlue is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2019, 01:10 PM   #4
86TOYO2k17
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Drives: 2017 toyota 86
Location: PNW
Posts: 2,131
Thanks: 336
Thanked 1,188 Times in 781 Posts
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gam3rBlue View Post
I have been doing quite a bit of research, which will probably not end, however from what I have found this is my possible set up for my FR-S.


(Hopefully I got the right topic area)


Please let me know what you guys think of it, and if, you think there is anything I should add in or swap out and why. I am looking to build my FR-S into a Drift car, which I know there is a lot that needs to go into that, but this is a beginning look at that.


- Edelbrock Supercharger E-Force ( Will upgrade to 3" stage 2 pulleys) and boost around 10 psi?


-Deatscwerks 300c Fuel Pump


-Deatscwerks 700c Port injectors


-Delicious MK1-Flex flue kit / Delicious edelbrock tune


-Jackson Racing dual radiator oil cooler


-ACT SB7-HDSS clutch or South Bend Stage 2 endurance Clutch ?


- not sure if a cold air intake is necessary ( haven't seem people really posting about it ) but I was looking at a Perrin cold air


- JDL EL 4-2-1 Header


- Nameless catted down pipe


- Perrin exhaust ( Was gonna do nameless from header back but wife likes the Perrin sound better )


From what I figure This will put my FR-S around 350whp with 245wtq on E85. Now I have read 350+ HP on stock block is pushing it and the longevity of the engine, So I am thinking ill have to change some internals? Correct me if I am wrong.


Transmissions seem to be a nightmare once your pushing FI and high HP, so I was looking at getting the Jackson racing Performances Trans Build. ( Let me know if that's worth it )


And; I have read a few people saying with Boost its good to switch out your rear Dif to something better like the IS300. ( Don't know if this also applies to SC or just turbo ) Let me know bros.!


Cheers,
the 3" pulley makes about 14psi not 10psi, and on E85 is good for about 375whp. But why supercharger? Turbo is generally preferred for drifting as you will be in high RPM / full boost most of the time and have less parasitic loss/ more power at same boost, and less heatsoak issues especially paired with hood vents and some turbo/manifold heat wrap.

The stock engine can handle 300whp pretty reliably but any higher is really pushing it, especially with how hard it is on the engine tracking/drifting. At 350whp+ of hard tracking/drifting at least do rods and pistons, possibly valves and springs since your drifting raising rev limiter may be beneficial.

If going FI and really pushing the car (heavy tracking or drifting) I advise to get a real standalone oil cooler, and not the dual cooler. That is perfect for NA tracking, or light FI tracking/DDing but not your intended use.

Rear diff, you either need a welded diff (poor mans) or a 2-way LSD (not poor mans) For the rear gearing you would want to set it up for what speeds / gears you plan on drifting, paired with what rev limiter you have set.

You will need some axles and driveshaft especially with welded / 2-way diff and that FI goal

Upgrade Trans clutch etc.
86TOYO2k17 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to 86TOYO2k17 For This Useful Post:
Gam3rBlue (09-05-2019)
Old 09-04-2019, 01:29 PM   #5
churchx
Senior Member
 
churchx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Drives: 2014 GT86
Location: Latvia, Riga
Posts: 4,333
Thanks: 696
Thanked 2,085 Times in 1,436 Posts
Mentioned: 53 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
For drifting brakes are little used, stockers will be more then sufficient. I mentioned brakes more in context, that with more power car will reach higher speeds quicker, thus more speed will need to be bled/more heat going to brakes .. fine for daily driving on public roads within legal limits, where little will change, but you may run into brakes heat capacity limits with FI build on track. Also brakes wise in drifting context, i'd search for brackets to install another set of calipers in rear, for use as hydraulic handbrake. Somehow cutting in hydraulic ebrake in existing brake lines seems a bit wrong/less reliable way.
What's most important for drifting - suspension mods, at least mods to increase max steering angle (rather shallow on these cars from lock to lock, due limited wheel clearance in turn limited by relatively wide boxer layout engine), and also drift oriented alignment (usually very high front negative camber, to counter dynamic camber change due caster, when during drift countersteer outside tire happens to be opposite one, thus one that had camber reduced (or even made positive, if static negative camber not sufficient) in wrong way for flat contact patch when drifting).
Cheapest way to increase max steering angle would be with Megan Racing steering inner tie rods. Possible that you will need to add wheel spacers for wheels to not rub at lock. More expensive ways are proper angle kits of modded knuckles and suspension arms, eg. like from PBM/Wisefab and alike. They may need sometimes also other accompanying mods, eg. wide body kit, maybe steering rack mods, maybe specific offset wheels, maybe something else. Max angle with these is insane though.
Oh. And bashbar. And roll cage. And bucket seats & multipoint harness. And maybe sequential gearbox and winters diff with quickly adjustable FD ratios
churchx is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to churchx For This Useful Post:
Gam3rBlue (09-05-2019)
Old 09-04-2019, 01:34 PM   #6
Gam3rBlue
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Drives: Scion-FR-S
Location: Canada
Posts: 19
Thanks: 15
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17 View Post
the 3" pulley makes about 14psi not 10psi, and on E85 is good for about 375whp. But why supercharger? Turbo is generally preferred for drifting as you will be in high RPM / full boost most of the time and have less parasitic loss/ more power at same boost, and less heatsoak issues especially paired with hood vents and some turbo/manifold heat wrap.

The stock engine can handle 300whp pretty reliably but any higher is really pushing it, especially with how hard it is on the engine tracking/drifting. At 350whp+ of hard tracking/drifting at least do rods and pistons, possibly valves and springs since your drifting raising rev limiter may be beneficial.

If going FI and really pushing the car (heavy tracking or drifting) I advise to get a real standalone oil cooler, and not the dual cooler. That is perfect for NA tracking, or light FI tracking/DDing but not your intended use.

Rear diff, you either need a welded diff (poor mans) or a 2-way LSD (not poor mans) For the rear gearing you would want to set it up for what speeds / gears you plan on drifting, paired with what rev limiter you have set.

You will need some axles and driveshaft especially with welded / 2-way diff and that FI goal

Upgrade Trans clutch etc.

From what I was reading Turbo or SC in the FR-S for either track or Drifting came down to personal preference but with the SC you have a consistent good throughout the power. But since Iv never done either , even though I always wanted a turbo, I went with the SC since it's a little easier to install and less harsh on the engine / maintenance is easier . From what if read if you don't have a turbo tuned right or set up on your car with a the particulars you can really fuck your car. In general though it seemed less expensive to do a SC over a turbo and still be able to have a drift / maybe track car for that reason . However again I have no experiences so if a turbo is generally what is used and the better option for drifting ,maybe I'll switch it up. I am just going off what if read and watched videos on and people seem to dirft either or.

Do you have know of a stand alone oil cooler that would be Good for this or a couple to compare ? . Same with axles and drive shaft you think would be good.

375whp sounds good ha ! Even better then what I thought . So gonna have to do some internals , which is good to know but also sucks since they are $$.

Last edited by Gam3rBlue; 09-04-2019 at 02:03 PM.
Gam3rBlue is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2019, 01:45 PM   #7
Gam3rBlue
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Drives: Scion-FR-S
Location: Canada
Posts: 19
Thanks: 15
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by churchx View Post
For drifting brakes are little used, stockers will be more then sufficient. I mentioned brakes more in context, that with more power car will reach higher speeds quicker, thus more speed will need to be bled/more heat going to brakes .. fine for daily driving on public roads within legal limits, where little will change, but you may run into brakes heat capacity limits with FI build on track. Also brakes wise in drifting context, i'd search for brackets to install another set of calipers in rear, for use as hydraulic handbrake. Somehow cutting in hydraulic ebrake in existing brake lines seems a bit wrong/less reliable way.
What's most important for drifting - suspension mods, at least mods to increase max steering angle (rather shallow on these cars from lock to lock, due limited wheel clearance in turn limited by relatively wide boxer layout engine), and also drift oriented alignment (usually very high front negative camber, to counter dynamic camber change due caster, when during drift countersteer outside tire happens to be opposite one, thus one that had camber reduced (or even made positive, if static negative camber not sufficient) in wrong way for flat contact patch when drifting).
Cheapest way to increase max steering angle would be with Megan Racing steering inner tie rods. Possible that you will need to add wheel spacers for wheels to not rub at lock. More expensive ways are proper angle kits of modded knuckles and suspension arms, eg. like from PBM/Wisefab and alike. They may need sometimes also other accompanying mods, eg. wide body kit, maybe steering rack mods, maybe specific offset wheels, maybe something else. Max angle with these is insane though.

Okay ,perfect. I did read about the angels and cambers so you can drift better into turns . Will look into those ,probably
Once the main components are done since you can drift with out them. Just might be a little harder.

Switching Suspension / coilovers is high on the list though. So the car will be more stable going into corners . Have not found any good recommend brands yet for this .

As for the e-brake and stuff. Honestly if I do upgrade it it will be a last on the list thing . I like a challenge ,so I'm learning how to Clutch Kick and some.old school Drifting with no e brake use . FIGURE if I'm gonna learn might as well learn the hard way ;p high light any brands or parts you recommend !
Gam3rBlue is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2019, 02:12 PM   #8
Dzmitry
Senior Member
 
Dzmitry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Drives: 2018 Subaru BRZ Limited with PP
Location: Phildalphia, Pennsylvania
Posts: 975
Thanks: 2,123
Thanked 609 Times in 391 Posts
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gam3rBlue View Post
From what I was reading Turbo or SC in the FR-S for either track or Drifting came down to personal preference. And since Iv never done either , even though I always wanted a turbo, I went with the SC since it's a little easier to install and less harsh on the engine. From what if read if you don't have a turbo tuned right or set up on your car with a the particulars you can really fuck your car. In general though it seemed less expensive to do a SC over a turbo and still be able to have a drift / maybe track car. However again I have no experiences so if a turbo is generally what is used and the better option for drifting ,maybe I'll switch it up.

Do you have know of a stand alone oil cooler that would be Good for this or a couple to compare ? . Same with axles and drive shaft you think would be good.

375whp sounds good ha ! Even better then what I thought . So gonna have to do some internals , which is good to know but also sucks since they are $$.
Greddy or Jackson Racing oil coolers are solid standalone products. That will get you most of the way, and as mentioned earlier in the threat, hood vents would finish off the job with very sufficient cooling. CSG offers some popular vents that prove well on keeping the engine bay cool for track use. The Driveshaft Shop will have the driveshafts you need, also can be found on CSG.

Yes, it's true that an SC may be less stressful on your engine. But with how far you may be planning to go with this, a turbo setup may be a good option. SC's are usually great for those staying within 300 whp and keeping their stock engine reliable. That's not to say they aren't good for surpassing this, but at the power levels you may be wanting, it will be pushing the SC pretty hard. With this kind of a build, you don't want to skimp out on a tune, so a professional tune will be very important, in which case a turbo setup can be quite reliable. This is, of course, if you choose to build up a few engine components and trans. After this, with the combination of proper cooling, the several support mods mentioned in this thread, and a solid tune, you would be sitting in a good spot.
Dzmitry is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Dzmitry For This Useful Post:
Gam3rBlue (09-05-2019)
Old 09-04-2019, 02:13 PM   #9
churchx
Senior Member
 
churchx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Drives: 2014 GT86
Location: Latvia, Riga
Posts: 4,333
Thanks: 696
Thanked 2,085 Times in 1,436 Posts
Mentioned: 53 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
My drifting experience is very limited - on stock NA power, but on ice track (so totally not power limited, only traction limited). Relatively shallow max steering angle was the biggest limit when drifting there that i felt. I had to be extra extra careful to not overdo it with throttle and turning/swinging inertia, and work a lot with massaging clutch to restore rear traction/reduce rear stepping out. After all, once you are past correctable, better just complete spin, as otherwise you may run off track inside curve, as car keeps turning, and with wheels countersteered till lock now fronts will point to inside and steer car there. It was so much easier on unmodified car (bmw of friend) that simply had wider max steering angle even stock, where i in most cases always had extra to countersteer even more and be able to drift with more throttle, wider angle and more fun/less hard work.

In general, i suggest you to search & read drifting & drift setups related threads in this forum section (including stickied one), if drifting is your main goal. That's not my main goal/target, just some fun i have in winter (for summer it's normal HPDE non-drift trackdays for me), so i'm not too familiar with drift specifics. But if i had main target drifting, to not reinvent bicycle, i'd first search what others had done with these cars.
churchx is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to churchx For This Useful Post:
Dzmitry (09-04-2019), Gam3rBlue (09-05-2019)
Old 09-04-2019, 02:17 PM   #10
Dzmitry
Senior Member
 
Dzmitry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Drives: 2018 Subaru BRZ Limited with PP
Location: Phildalphia, Pennsylvania
Posts: 975
Thanks: 2,123
Thanked 609 Times in 391 Posts
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gam3rBlue View Post
Okay ,perfect. I did read about the angels and cambers so you can drift better into turns . Will look into those ,probably
Once the main components are done since you can drift with out them. Just might be a little harder.

Switching Suspension / coilovers is high on the list though. So the car will be more stable going into corners . Have not found any good recommend brands yet for this .

As for the e-brake and stuff. Honestly if I do upgrade it it will be a last on the list thing . I like a challenge ,so I'm learning how to Clutch Kick and some.old school Drifting with no e brake use . FIGURE if I'm gonna learn might as well learn the hard way ;p high light any brands or parts you recommend !
Again, not to be pushing you on CSG particularly, but they offer a lot of what you are looking for, with some good price ranges (in reference to the coilovers), and will be able to assist you in your setup. Otherwise, do a little more searching as there a few options around for some suspension upgrades through good brands like Whiteline.
Dzmitry is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Dzmitry For This Useful Post:
Gam3rBlue (09-05-2019)
Old 09-04-2019, 02:30 PM   #11
G-Man
Senior Member
 
G-Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Drives: 1980 corvette, 2014 Subaru BRZ
Location: the colony
Posts: 366
Thanks: 217
Thanked 141 Times in 98 Posts
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Garage
Have you taken it out yet?

not sure what level of "a drift car" you want, but you can go to grassroots drift events with a stock car and have a ball. Start there see what you like and dislike, then ask questions on how to fix that. IMO a big partlist isn't the way to go.

If you have a local shop that goes to those events support them! They will be the best and fastest source of information/fixes when you blow up on the course.
__________________
G-Man is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to G-Man For This Useful Post:
Spuds (09-05-2019), Tristor (09-06-2019)
Old 09-04-2019, 02:33 PM   #12
Lantanafrs2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Drives: 2013 frs red
Location: South Florida
Posts: 3,517
Thanks: 2,520
Thanked 3,088 Times in 1,654 Posts
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Are you an experienced drifter? You're talking a shit ton of money...
Lantanafrs2 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to Lantanafrs2 For This Useful Post:
Dzmitry (09-04-2019), G-Man (09-04-2019), Spuds (09-05-2019), Tristor (09-06-2019)
Old 09-04-2019, 02:57 PM   #13
86TOYO2k17
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Drives: 2017 toyota 86
Location: PNW
Posts: 2,131
Thanks: 336
Thanked 1,188 Times in 781 Posts
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gam3rBlue View Post
From what I was reading Turbo or SC in the FR-S for either track or Drifting came down to personal preference but with the SC you have a consistent good throughout the power. But since Iv never done either , even though I always wanted a turbo, I went with the SC since it's a little easier to install and less harsh on the engine / maintenance is easier . From what if read if you don't have a turbo tuned right or set up on your car with a the particulars you can really fuck your car. In general though it seemed less expensive to do a SC over a turbo and still be able to have a drift / maybe track car for that reason . However again I have no experiences so if a turbo is generally what is used and the better option for drifting ,maybe I'll switch it up. I am just going off what if read and watched videos on and people seem to dirft either or.

Do you have know of a stand alone oil cooler that would be Good for this or a couple to compare ? . Same with axles and drive shaft you think would be good.

375whp sounds good ha ! Even better then what I thought . So gonna have to do some internals , which is good to know but also sucks since they are $$.
Per peak WHP to WHP comparison, twinscrew/roots style Supercharger will generally stress the engine more for two reason (some setups and variables may differ),

but for one supercharger generally will have more instant low end torque, a huge hit of torque at 3k rpm is what snaps rods.

Also supercharger has much more parasitic loss so you need substantially more crank HP to get the same WHP, 375whp is around 460crank hp on a supercharger or around 430crank hp with a turbo.

The other advantage to a turbo, is with a proper inter-cooler setup you can keep intake temps low and consistent. With a supercharger especially pushing out that much power heat soak and high intake temps will be a struggle. Only so much you can keep intake temps down on a twin screw/roots style supercharger eventually you will succumb to heatsoak issues.

cost isnt that much different, a lot of hidden costs for both FI setups at that power level.
86TOYO2k17 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2019, 07:22 PM   #14
Gam3rBlue
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Drives: Scion-FR-S
Location: Canada
Posts: 19
Thanks: 15
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lantanafrs2 View Post
Are you an experienced drifter? You're talking a shit ton of money...
Hah no I'm not.. I think I mentioned that somewhere . But money is money.. whether I am a pro drifter or not it's still a car I wanna build for the fun of it lol and to try it out.
Gam3rBlue is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply

Tags
build, frs, setup, supercharged

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:37 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Garage vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.