CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[Racecomp Engineering]

Good aero with quality suspension...done right...can really change the way you set-up and drive the car and be a big advantage. If you're new to the track and car set-up then IMO I would recommend keeping things simple. (not saying you are, I don't know you're history).

- Andy

[ScionOfHorus]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

I've seen very of these cars with "real" aero...the kind that produces significant downforce and requires significant suspension changes.

If you do get a decent aero package going, you may end up changing out springs to dial things in just right, so I'd recommend a quality damper with some valving range and separate compression and rebound adjustment (2 way).

Depending on your tire choice, I'd do the BBK first, then coilovers, then aero.

- Andy

It's not an insignificant amount, something like 110#s at 100mph on the diffuser, and I haven't seen the numbers on the splitter yet, but that's because he's not finished with it yet.

Currently using 245/45/17 pilot super sports, going to upgrade brake fluid only for the may track day and see how it goes. Had some decent fade earlier this month.

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Good aero with quality suspension...done right...can really change the way you set-up and drive the car and be a big advantage. If you're new to the track and car set-up then IMO I would recommend keeping things simple. (not saying you are, I don't know you're history).

- Andy

Yeah, right now I'm aiming for good looks that will be helpful on the track one I actually know how to use it properly.

My first post basically had my entire tracking history. 1 weekend at TWS, 1 weekend at MSR-H, and I'll be at MSR-H again may 16/17th. MSR-H being my hometown track.

[Calum]

Originally Posted by jvincent

The hardest part of the sub-frame install is making sure that you don't crossthread the bolt going back in. Make 100% sure that you've got it threaded by hand before putting any tools to it.

This times a billion. I've been getting paid to fix things since I was 10. That's 25 years of making a living by knowing how to screw a bolt into a hole, at this point I'd say I've master it. I still had to **** around with those bolts and almost fucked it up. There's no secret sauce to it, anyone that can turn a wrench should be able to accomplish putting in those bushings, just take your time. And remember, if your impact gun is turning to the right, you had better be on a left hand thread.

[cjd]

The rear subframe bolts were miserable. I got one after a minute if fiddling, the other took almost five minutes, finally got it after using a 2x2 to apply a little pressure in the right direction as I threaded the bolt. It kept pretending to be threaded then falling out.

Totally worth it.

It was about 50F when I installed mine. No trouble other than those bolts.

[rh9]

@Racecomp Engineering , I have my 900hp brz which mainly a street/drag straight line car,

what do you recommend for coilovers ? rates ? bushing ? diff support ? for better straight line traction and high speed stability ?

thanx

[DeaconRoc]

@Racecomp Engineering @CSG Mike

Seems my suspension is faulty and the vendor has offered to refund it so it looks like I'm in the market for something else.

My use is 90% street and 10% track (sprints).

My shortlist is:-

KWV3
KW Clubsport
AST 5100
Ohlins R&T
HKS Hypermax IV GT
HKS Hypermax IV SP
Bilstein B16

The ohlins and the AST's are at the top of my budget and the HKS come in as the cheaper options. For my usage what would you recomend? I run the car in summer on Federal 595RS-R's.

Thanks!

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by DeaconRoc

@Racecomp Engineering @CSG Mike

Seems my suspension is faulty and the vendor has offered to refund it so it looks like I'm in the market for something else.

My use is 90% street and 10% track (sprints).

My shortlist is:-

KWV3
KW Clubsport
AST 5100
Ohlins R&T
HKS Hypermax IV GT
HKS Hypermax IV SP
Bilstein B16

The ohlins and the AST's are at the top of my budget and the HKS come in as the cheaper options. For my usage what would you recomend? I run the car in summer on Federal 595RS-R's.

Thanks!

How many track days do you plan on doing per year, and will you be getting rear LCAs and front camber plates, if your chosen damper doesn't include them?

[DeaconRoc]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

How many track days do you plan on doing per year, and will you be getting rear LCAs and front camber plates, if your chosen damper doesn't include them?

I'm doing six sprint days this year - probably six to eight next year. I have the whiteline rear upper camber bushes so wasn't going to get LCA's. The ohlins, ast's and hks options would have camber plates. The kw's I was going to use upper camber bolts with the 'ovaled' mounting hole they have. I hadn't really thought what I'd do with the Bilstein's.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by DeaconRoc

I'm doing six sprint days this year - probably six to eight next year. I have the whiteline rear upper camber bushes so wasn't going to get LCA's. The ohlins, ast's and hks options would have camber plates. The kw's I was going to use upper camber bolts with the 'ovaled' mounting hole they have. I hadn't really thought what I'd do with the Bilstein's.

Hmmm that's actually a pretty solid amount.

From your list, I'd go with the Ohlins if you prefer an easy to drive, but comfortable setup.

I'd seriously urge you to consider spending a little bit more so that you can get a mid-range two way damper, rather than a high end one way damper.

[stockysnail]

Originally Posted by ScionOfHorus

OK, not sure if I just missed anything or it hasn't been brought up yet, but...

How should I go about balancing aero with suspension upgrades? Currently stock on both, but planning to get aero (driveway labs splitter, side skirts, and diffuser, and a gt wing), then coilovers, then a bbk as funds allow.

I plan to track about 4-6 times per year depending on work and finances. Currently have only done 2 weekends, with another coming up in may. Then none for a while.

My skill level definitely doesn't really require any of them just yet, but I'm also going to do it anyways because I love the look, hence the upgrade order. But if adding the aero will make the ride worse without stiffer spring rates/better dampening/anything else I'll get the coils first and the aero right after.

I'll be ending up around 260whp once I reinstall my supercharger, and goal is 300whp once I get flex fuel.

I've had the Driveway Labs stuff for a long time now as I was apart of the first few to get his first diffuser and side skirts. Each will help only a little, so I'd do those parts last after brakes (AP Racing), and suspension (Springs/struts if you don't want to adjust height). After that do aero, unless you buy it all at once. The wing will add drag, not reduce it and I'm not a fan of that, especially since you're not going to be pushing over 400hp. Feel free to click my build link in my thread to see what the aero parts look like and my suspension setup, which is wonderful for a street and occasional track vehicle.

[stockysnail]

@CSG Mike or @Racecomp Engineering I'm looking for your thoughts on brake upgrades. Feel free to look at my build thread again since it may have been a while. I'm around 250whp, running RE-11a 245r17. I track 4-6 times a year with around 4 autox a year. The rest is daily driving. I live in the Portland area so no salt is used on the roads. Would you recommend the AP Racing Sprint kit with a set of pads for racing and a set of pads for street use or some other setup? A guy that was running the Sprint kit at the track when I was there says it's a night and day difference from stock (not sure if stock for him was with or without track pads on his stock rotors/calipers).

My last track day my car did double duty (2 people shared my car on track taking turns), and my rotors were pretty tore up. The pads Carbotek AX-6 front and rear were great until near the end of the day when the front pads and very noticeably uneven wear with more wear at one end of the pad vs the other. The rotors (stock) also seems warped as the breaks felt like they were pulsing even afterwards on the drive home with normal constant street driving pressure. I swapped the rotors with an extra stock set and the breaks were fine again after also swapping pad onto the stock street pads.

Also eventually thinking about getting a set of racing slicks and another set of cheap wheels, since I can't afford the amazingly light TSW that you guys have on your site.

[DeaconRoc]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I'd seriously urge you to consider spending a little bit more so that you can get a mid-range two way damper, rather than a high end one way damper.

What would you suggest to fit that brief?

It needs to pass the girlfriend test though!

Thanks for the input!

[ajc209]

Decon - we dont have a huge choice of good 2 ways coilover at reasonable prices.

The Ohlins DFV can be had for £2066 which is a bargin (US readers we brits have 20% tax added ~ $2650 before tax)

We have the Tein SRC at around £3200 but they come with 10kg front, 12kg rear rates and even though the damper is excellent, it will be firm on the street.

A more affordable alternative is the Tein Monosports (which I am still waiting on CSGs input vs Ohlins) which has 8kg front and 9kg rear rates, but the damper is not as good as the SRC and only one way adjustable. These sell at about £1500 which is a bit close to the ohlins really. Again I'd love to hear CSGs opinion of these vs Ohlins as the price is close in the UK.

[ajc209]

I guess the main point about the Monosport vs the ohlins is the 8kg front and 9kg rear spring are more track focused with less understeer than the "safer" and softer Ohlins.