Another reason to love this car: Clutch Bleeding

[BaBaFlyingSheep]

Originally Posted by TelMinz

It's supposed to come back up on its own.

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

It will not come back by itself unless you have removed the helper spring.

Alright, looks like we don't have a consensus here...

Finally found a youtube vid that shows what I'm experiencing.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4UmyCoG7Lms"]Clutch bleed slave cylinder WRX STi manual long version - YouTube[/ame]

Anyone else have the same experience, or does your clutch come back up by itself?

I don't know what the helper spring is, or where it is, but this is my actual process:
1) Crack bleeder valve
2) Friend will push clutch all the way down
3) Close bleeder valve
4) Clutch stays stuck to floor
5) Slowly use hand to pull clutch back up
6) Repeat

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by BaBaFlyingSheep

I don't know what the helper spring is, or where it is

Just have to get in there with a flashlight and look at where the clutch pedal arm pivots. You'll see it.

[ryoma]

Originally Posted by BaBaFlyingSheep

I don't know what the helper spring is, or where it is, but this is my actual process:
1) Crack bleeder valve
2) Friend will push clutch all the way down
3) Close bleeder valve
4) Clutch stays stuck to floor
5) Slowly use hand to pull clutch back up
6) Repeat

step 1 & 2 are reversed. have your friend pump the pedal once or twice (you probably don't need to pump it at all, but I do anyways) then hold it down to the floor. then you crack the bleeder valve for a bit and then close. your friend then releases the pedal.

I have my spring removed and my pedal comes back up so I can't help you there. I have never bled my clutch with the spring still attached.

EDIT: thinking about it again, I am not sure if cracking the bleeder valve first then pumping or reversing that order really matters as long as there isn't any suction from the pedal. but I have been doing my method for the brakes and clutch my whole life and never have tried your way so I am not sure.

[JohnnyK]

If you are having to bleed your clutch (or brakes) at 35K, you have a leak in your hydraulic system.

[ryoma]

Originally Posted by JohnnyK

If you are having to bleed your clutch (or brakes) at 35K, you have a leak in your hydraulic system.

if you see the fluid getting into a dark brown hue, it is always a good idea to bleed it regardless of the mileage.

[continuecrushing]

Originally Posted by ryoma

if you see the fluid getting into a dark brown hue, it is always a good idea to bleed it regardless of the mileage.

yeah, plus a lot of these cars are approaching 3.5-4 years old...

You can't bleed the brakes/clutch TOO often

[tCsonfrs]

Originally Posted by continuecrushing

yeah, plus a lot of these cars are approaching 3.5-4 years old...

You can't bleed the brakes/clutch TOO often

Almost 5 really....

[ApexEight]

Question: if air gets in the clutch hydraulic system, bleeding thorugh the bleeder screw wouldn't actually get rid of the air since the clutch line and master cylinder are mounted above the slave cylinder, and thus bubbles would float up there and never be released by the slave cylinder bleeder screw, right? Perhaps unbolting the slave and hanging it higher than the master cylinder while bleeding would solve this issue?

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by ApexEight

Question: if air gets in the clutch hydraulic system, bleeding thorugh the bleeder screw wouldn't actually get rid of the air since the clutch line and master cylinder are mounted above the slave cylinder, and thus bubbles would float up there and never be released by the slave cylinder bleeder screw, right? Perhaps unbolting the slave and hanging it higher than the master cylinder while bleeding would solve this issue?

Air bubbles will move with the fluid during the bleeding process. They do not get trapped anyplace.

[ls1ac]

Just put this on the other thread.
Every once in a while I will find a slave that will not bleed all the air out using the pedal method. I will then use a vacuum bleeder and then back to the pedal method.
I am guessing that compressing the bubble in in the slave makes it smaller and it stays put. With the vacuum it expands the bubble and it then moves.
No idea if this is what is really happening but it works (especially on new slaves).
Hope this might help if you are having trouble.

[Savvy Tofu]

Speed Bleeder Clutch Installation

1. Identify bleeder valve http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119459 right behind the intake manifold
2. Purchase SB7100S-SS stainless steel Speed Bleeder http://www.speedbleeder.com/
3. Unscrew and withdraw as much old fluid from clutch reservoir as possible and fill to max line with chosen break/hydrolic fluid
4. Clean the bleeder valve and surrounding area with water
5. Take a piece of clay from your detailing clay bar and cover the valve nipple to prevent leaks when unscrewing (optional)
6. Place shop towels under the valve area - It will spill
7. Use a 10mm flare wrench to remove valve (not optional - using any other tool will strip the corners from experience)
8. Install new SB7100S-SS using 10mm flare wrench
9. Tighten until it bottoms out, do not over tighten!
10. Attach tubing line to valve nipple. You can also buy this at Speed Bleeder website
11. Insert other end of tube into whatever vessel you have (soda bottle) and tape the bottle down so it can't spill over (not optional)
12. Loosen valve just over a 1/4 turn with your flare wrench
13. Depress your clutch - it WILL stick to the bottom if your clutch is stock every time you depress it due to helper spring
14. Lift your clutch back up - using your foot is fine to pull it back up
15. Repeat ~6 times until all old fluid has been replaced with new fluid. The reservoir is small so check it every 3 pumps or so and refill as necessary.
16. Top off fluids to max, close bleeder - DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN, clean up and put the cap that comes with the bleeder on.

Use only non-expired and unopened break fluid and dispose of hydraulic fluid responsibly. Break fluid is highly corrosive, clean the area well with water and towels. Please let me know of any errors or changes necessary for this post. Good luck

Source Credits http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15363

[James33]

So the reservoir for the clutch is separate from the brakes? Does anyone have a photo showing both? My Lotus uses the same one and makes it easy to bleed everything with a pressure bleeder kit. Easier than a vacuum kit to me. Fill the container with fresh fluid, attach to reservoir, pump to about 10 psi or so and then crack each nipple and catch contents until it runs clear. Close and move to the next one. No chance of air getting into system and only takes 1 person.

James

[continuecrushing]

Originally Posted by James33

So the reservoir for the clutch is separate from the brakes? Does anyone have a photo showing both? My Lotus uses the same one and makes it easy to bleed everything with a pressure bleeder kit. Easier than a vacuum kit to me. Fill the container with fresh fluid, attach to reservoir, pump to about 10 psi or so and then crack each nipple and catch contents until it runs clear. Close and move to the next one. No chance of air getting into system and only takes 1 person.

James

I'm sure someone has a photo, but it is two separate containers/reservoirs-however, they are close to each other (at least on LHD).

[Savvy Tofu]

Originally Posted by James33

So the reservoir for the clutch is separate from the brakes? Does anyone have a photo showing both? My Lotus uses the same one and makes it easy to bleed everything with a pressure bleeder kit. Easier than a vacuum kit to me. Fill the container with fresh fluid, attach to reservoir, pump to about 10 psi or so and then crack each nipple and catch contents until it runs clear. Close and move to the next one. No chance of air getting into system and only takes 1 person.

James

Yes, the 86 has a separate container for clutch fluid. Feel free to write up a guide for your preferred method of bleeding to add to the collection. Please note there is no perfect fit cap for the pressure bleed method for the 86 clutch container. You must use a universal and clamp it down. Hence I went with the speed bleeder method. Hope this helps.

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