Another V8 Swap

[kurty85]

Something definitely weird going on with your engine dustin. No offense but we just dynoed my LS2 402 in a C5ZO6 and make 490/495 at 6500. You should be way higher than that. I would think you should be 550/550 at least with a bigger engine, better heads, better intake, better TB. The LS2 has a fast 90/90 combo, dart pro1 heads, and kooks 1 7/8 headers. The low oil pressure really has me thinking the engine is struggling and there is massive blowby or like you said the reluctor wheel is off. I would go back to TSP and have them dyno a fresh engine and replace yours. Is it not rated at 630hp flywheel? Again no offense just my thoughts.

[DustinS]

Originally Posted by kurty85

Something definitely weird going on with your engine dustin. No offense but we just dynoed my LS2 402 in a C5ZO6 and make 490/495 at 6500. You should be way higher than that. I would think you should be 550/550 at least with a bigger engine, better heads, better intake, better TB. The LS2 has a fast 90/90 combo, dart pro1 heads, and kooks 1 7/8 headers. The low oil pressure really has me thinking the engine is struggling and there is massive blowby or like you said the reluctor wheel is off. I would go back to TSP and have them dyno a fresh engine and replace yours. Is it not rated at 630hp flywheel? Again no offense just my thoughts.

I kind of agree with you, but dyno numbers are just numbers without some kind of reference. Waiting for another somewhat comparable LS car to be dynoed on the same dyno for comparison. Though I do plan on making some changes while the engine is out/before next spring. I also need to figure out how to properly check physical timing on the engine. Chevy didn't make it easy

Should be a set of custom ITBs and 1 7/8 headers coming up eventually. Printing another 9 mock up pieces (as long as this one doesn't fail again). We will be at least testing the ITBs, not sure if they will stay or not.


Edit:

Bracket to hold the exhaust tube in the same spot on both sides and should orient it straight out the back. I've made changes since I got the picture, but I'll just show the real thing once it gets printed.



Product Picture:

[Zer0]

Looks good. Looking forward to seeing these parts put on to the car.

[wooly35]

im in for a header group buy! lol These CX racing headers suck.

[Axis2011KR]

Has anyone run the Vorshlag long tubes versus the CX racing headers for comparison? I know there are minimal options without a full custom route at the moment but was curious as I was planning to run the Vorshlags unless I'm ready for boost at the same time I swap.

[DustinS]

Originally Posted by Axis2011KR

Has anyone run the Vorshlag long tubes versus the CX racing headers for comparison? I know there are minimal options without a full custom route at the moment but was curious as I was planning to run the Vorshlags unless I'm ready for boost at the same time I swap.

Completely different. One is a cheap small tube diameter manifold and the other is an Expensive USA built set of Proper Long Tubes.

That being said, Vorshlag currently doesn't have any headers to sell as their manufacturer broke the jig and Vorshlag didn't have a set to send them to make a new one. So they are currently waiting to finish up their current FRS Swap to design a new set and send them off to be made.

I still may go with a set of their headers if they release them while my engine is out and they tick the right boxes.

[spitsnaugle]

Originally Posted by DustinS

Completely different. One is a cheap small tube diameter manifold and the other is an Expensive USA built set of Proper Long Tubes.

I still may go with a set of their headers if they release them while my engine is out and they tick the right boxes.

Someone needs to take LS swap their car to americanracingheaders in NY. They did LS swap headers for the 240z, sold through HawksThirdGen, and were absolutely beautiful, nice smooth collectors with flow-spike, perfect tolerances around the steering rack and starter. Felt like they were pretty reasonable at $1200 if I recall correctly .

[Axis2011KR]

Originally Posted by DustinS

That being said, Vorshlag currently doesn't have any headers to sell as their manufacturer broke the jig and Vorshlag didn't have a set to send them to make a new one. So they are currently waiting to finish up their current FRS Swap to design a new set and send them off to be made.

I still may go with a set of their headers if they release them while my engine is out and they tick the right boxes.

Figures doh! They are local back home so will likely be my go to on getting my build sorted out when the time comes.

Originally Posted by spitsnaugle

Felt like they were pretty reasonable at $1,200 if I recall correctly .

That would be very reasonable for a quality header, the Vorshlag was running almost $1,800 for comparison

[kurty85]

Dustin,

Reading back through your thread I could not find what oil you were using. I remember you had mentioned 15w50 for some reason. What is the bearing clearance on the rods and mains of your TSP engine?. It would make sense that the oil pressure was extremely low if the oil was too thick and the bearing clearances were too loose or vice versa. Usually I run 20 thousandths on mains and 15 to 20 thousandths on rod bearings and always run 10w30 or 10w40. Just enough cushioning without working the oil pump too hard and does not run too hot (196F under full load). Something to look at. Even with a big power adder most builders don't go above 20-25 on the mains and 18-20 on the rods. There are a lot of reports of people using 15w 50 in LS' and having valvetrain noise and weird wear patterns.

Kurt

[DustinS]

Originally Posted by kurty85

Dustin,

Reading back through your thread I could not find what oil you were using. I remember you had mentioned 15w50 for some reason. What is the bearing clearance on the rods and mains of your TSP engine?. It would make sense that the oil pressure was extremely low if the oil was too thick and the bearing clearances were too loose or vice versa. Usually I run 20 thousandths on mains and 15 to 20 thousandths on rod bearings and always run 10w30 or 10w40. Just enough cushioning without working the oil pump too hard and does not run too hot (196F under full load). Something to look at. Even with a big power adder most builders don't go above 20-25 on the mains and 18-20 on the rods. There are a lot of reports of people using 15w 50 in LS' and having valvetrain noise and weird wear patterns.

Kurt

Running 15w/50 oil. TSP didn’t include any of that with my engine so I don’t exactly know. I didn’t even get a parts list. Come to think of it, not sure I even have an actual invoice. Going to check tomorrow, I have most of the receipts in a file and not sure if it’s in there haha.

Currently looking at new clutches as I am pretty sure my current ACT is due for a replacement disk. Started squealing at times. Wanting a lighter clutch to help the engine rev a little faster. Engine seems lethargic compared to others I see in videos, but it could just be me (or again, Engine isn’t correct and I just don’t have a good comparison). Current clutch kit is 42lbs. Clutch Masters street/race twin disk is 30lbs and should be easier to live with. (Drop another 7lbs if I run the aluminum flywheel. I don’t think I need anything that drastic though).

[kurty85]

And that is why I would never buy anything from TSP. I have heard nothing but bad reports about their engines. Even Cleetus Mcfarland has sent back two engines that are TSP built. I will build my own or go with a reputable builder like proline (i know they are expensive but they are the best), thompson motorsports, kurt urban performance, etc.

I would run 10w30 oil and see where your oil pressure comes out at. What made you want to run 15w50?

[DustinS]

I run 15w50 because 0w30 gave me noticeably worst pressure. I ran Mobil 1 0w30 for the High Zinc content that TSP recommended/wanted.

Even with 15w50 I start losing oil pressure above 5500 rpm. Last time I really drove the car hard, I noted 50psi @6000 rpm with rev limit/Shift point of 6800 rpm. It doesn't see that pretty much ever though as the vibration kills any enjoyment of driving the car hard/I don't want to hurt anything because of the vibration.

[kurty85]

Sounds like something major is out of balance as well as clearances are off

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[DustinS]

That is why engine is coming back out.