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Old 06-17-2019, 06:32 PM   #1191
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Good luck Dustin. You deserve this to be a good reliable car with all of the effort you put into it. Sad to see you getting engines with issues the rest of the car is so nice. Hopefully you get this resolved.
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Old 06-18-2019, 10:20 AM   #1192
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Yes, and I haven't heard back on that just yet, but I am 99% sure they are only going to offer to fix it on my dime, or maybe a slight discount on getting it fixed?

At this point, I really just want a new engine or partial refund. This one obviously has issues, but I am not holding my breath. With as much money and time I have spent working on this engine, I don't feel it's worth continuing with TSP products. Especially with @ILLSMOQ having similar issues and finding the heads cracked with only 2500? miles on the car.
1500 miles lol. The engine builder said those cracks were common and superficial on the PRC heads though.
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Old 06-21-2019, 02:46 PM   #1193
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Left to Right - Front to Back
Passenger Side:



Driver Side:



Lots of buildup



Scoring on cylinder wall. I only checked the first two cylinders on the drivers side, but both had them.

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Old 06-21-2019, 03:05 PM   #1194
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Dude, you need a new motor. These fucking rebuild shops are an expensive crap shoot. God bless what comes in a crate.
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Old 06-21-2019, 03:38 PM   #1195
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You've put so much into this, you deserve a reliable driver.
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Old 06-25-2019, 11:53 AM   #1196
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Found a company offering a 2JZ to FRS harness for the ECU Masters EMU Black. Interested in how well the canbus works.

I am still weighing the options of staying LS and rebuilding it, or switching to K20 or 2JZ. I like the idea of 2J sounding great with good power, and being able to use my current transmission easily. I just don't like how heavy and large it is. It's also considerably more expensive to build over the K20.

K20 is small and light, but I am worried the power I am looking for will make it lazy. I know there are way around this, but something I really enjoy about the LS is how easy it is to drive.

I will need to get custom bellhousing and clutch setup, but I think quicktime should be able to handle the bellhousing. Plan is to call them here in a bit on lunch.
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Old 06-25-2019, 12:40 PM   #1197
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Found a company offering a 2JZ to FRS harness for the ECU Masters EMU Black. Interested in how well the canbus works.

I am still weighing the options of staying LS and rebuilding it, or switching to K20 or 2JZ. I like the idea of 2J sounding great with good power, and being able to use my current transmission easily. I just don't like how heavy and large it is. It's also considerably more expensive to build over the K20.

K20 is small and light, but I am worried the power I am looking for will make it lazy. I know there are way around this, but something I really enjoy about the LS is how easy it is to drive.

I will need to get custom bellhousing and clutch setup, but I think quicktime should be able to handle the bellhousing. Plan is to call them here in a bit on lunch.


Can you DM me their contact info?


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Old 06-25-2019, 02:28 PM   #1198
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Can you DM me their contact info?


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Found they don't actually sell it. Website doesn't actually work, it's just up while they work on a few things.
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Old 06-25-2019, 02:36 PM   #1199
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Found a company offering a 2JZ to FRS harness for the ECU Masters EMU Black. Interested in how well the canbus works.

I am still weighing the options of staying LS and rebuilding it, or switching to K20 or 2JZ. I like the idea of 2J sounding great with good power, and being able to use my current transmission easily. I just don't like how heavy and large it is. It's also considerably more expensive to build over the K20.

K20 is small and light, but I am worried the power I am looking for will make it lazy. I know there are way around this, but something I really enjoy about the LS is how easy it is to drive.

I will need to get custom bellhousing and clutch setup, but I think quicktime should be able to handle the bellhousing. Plan is to call them here in a bit on lunch.
Just stay LS, changing now would cost more than fixing it. I spun a bearing on my 6.2 LS; took it out, flipped it upside down without taking the heads off, new crank and bearings and threw it back in the car. Been working for two years now including track days. I know your issue is totally different but my point is just replace what's broken and push forward. I must comment I'm only using GM parts though, no aftermarket stuff. Don't give up on LS, maybe just give up on certain companies.
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Old 06-25-2019, 02:48 PM   #1200
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Just stay LS, changing now would cost more than fixing it. I spun a bearing on my 6.2 LS; took it out, flipped it upside down without taking the heads off, new crank and bearings and threw it back in the car. Been working for two years now including track days. I know your issue is totally different but my point is just replace what's broken and push forward. I must comment I'm only using GM parts though, no aftermarket stuff. Don't give up on LS, maybe just give up on certain companies.
Just looking at all options. It will be expensive, but at this point it may be expensive to stay LS as well.

If the scoring is as bad as it looks, block is toast (won't know until I get it apart). Pistons were extremely worn last time the engine was apart, so I can't imagine what they look like now the second time around. Then add in rods and crank to get rid of the TSP products that will sell for next to nothing because they are used.

I also like the idea of gaining space and losing weight, especially the heavy convoluted dual 3" exhaust that doesn't really fit under the FRS. Getting rid of drone is going to be an expensive quest as well. Speaking of which, if I stay LS I am going to buy the Corsa Extreme Camaro Axle Back. Seems it will cut the drone, and should sound decent with my current muffler in the center.
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Old 06-25-2019, 02:53 PM   #1201
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Just looking at all options. It will be expensive, but at this point it may be expensive to stay LS as well.



If the scoring is as bad as it looks, block is toast (won't know until I get it apart). Pistons were extremely worn last time the engine was apart, so I can't imagine what they look like now the second time around. Then add in rods and crank to get rid of the TSP products that will sell for next to nothing because they are used.



I also like the idea of gaining space and losing weight, especially the heavy convoluted dual 3" exhaust that doesn't really fit under the FRS. Getting rid of drone is going to be an expensive quest as well.
Just get a cammed 6.0 LS2, 3in y pipe with a cutout to stock mid pipe back. No drone but can open it up to flow freely on command, and you'll have ground clearance for the exhaust. You have all the supporting mods already for an LS. Just seems counter intuitive and more expensive to start over. Just my 2 cents though.

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Old 06-25-2019, 03:11 PM   #1202
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Just get a cammed 6.0 LS2, 3in y pipe with a cutout to stock mid pipe back. No drone but can open it up to flow freely on command, and you'll have ground clearance for the exhaust. You have all the supporting mods already for an LS. Just seems counter intuitive and more expensive to start over. Just my 2 cents though.

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Old 06-25-2019, 03:31 PM   #1203
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Well if anyone knows how to google search properly I don't think TSP is going to get much work after this....
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Old 06-25-2019, 04:10 PM   #1204
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I would get a used ls3 oem, nice heads, cam, and call it a day. Just an example My LS2 402 made 507rwhp/491 rwtq all day long without breaking a sweat. 400 lb ft of tq from 2500 rpm up to 6800. This would give you exactly what you are looking for. I had mediocre heads too. Dart pro1's. Cam was an LG G6X3. Kooks 1 7/8 headers.

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