Innovate (Sprintex) Supercharger Owners Topic

[SprintexUSA]

#1- 1/4 BSP X 5/16in (8mm) MALE ELBOW PLASTIC
#1- 1/4 BSP x 10mm MALE ELBOW PLASTIC
#1- 1/4 BSP x 1/2in 90deg brass elbow

[tahdizzle]

Good to know we can buy a product that we can't get parts for at auto zone :p

[SprintexUSA]

You can get idler pulleys, s/c oil, belts, metric bolts, o-rings, injectors, abrasion shield, and rubber elbows there.

...Then ask for 300 of any of those pieces and watch the reaction you get .

[brianhj]

Originally Posted by SprintexUSA

#1- 1/4 BSP X 5/16in (8mm) MALE ELBOW PLASTIC
#1- 1/4 BSP x 10mm MALE ELBOW PLASTIC
#1- 1/4 BSP x 1/2in 90deg brass elbow

I'm confused, I have the 2 brass elbows already

[whataboutbob]

Originally Posted by brianhj

I'm confused, I have the 2 brass elbows already

These worked for me, I also used brass elbows to make the 90 deg bend by putting a 2 in length of hose between them and the 90 deg elbows.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...postcount=2542

[brianhj]

Originally Posted by whataboutbob

These worked for me, I also used brass elbows to make the 90 deg bend by putting a 2 in length of hose between them and the 90 deg elbows.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...postcount=2542

Oh shoot I was confused.. xxscaxx said the one's he suggested were the wrong size and I was thinking your post was his. I bought the ones you suggested so I should be good.

[Dustin]

I ended up retapping the threads from BPT to NPT and used brass NPT fittings. Many hard miles so far with no issues.

[DeliciousTuning]

Originally Posted by MINOCIN

My car idles fine, usually at around 800 rpm. The vid was of a cold start so that's why you saw the 1,500 rpm idle. After the cats warm up the car automatically drops back to normal, which you see at around the 50s to 1m mark on the vid. If the oil and cats haven't warmed up though and I blip the throttle then the engine will drop below idle, down to like 500 rpm, lug the engine a bit and then jump up to 1,000 rpm before settling back to around 800 rpm. That only started happening though with tune version 8.65. It doesn't bother me too much though because I know that I can avoid it as long as I warm the engine up and then drive normally until everything is warm.

I bought my FRS back in July of 2012 but I never encountered any of the issues that many of the first cars saw. Even still, the TSB for the idle issue came out around the time that I received my free third oil change from the dealership so they did their thing, what exactly I don't know.

If the dealership reflashes your ecu then I would imagine that you would lose your tune. Get in contact with Zach or Bill at Delicious and see what they say,

If you go to the dealer they will flash your vehicle to stock and over write your EcuTeK license. If you have them do this, make sure to get an invoice from them that they performed this service.

As for the idle dip we can look into this more, but we do not have this problem on our car we drive daily. But we have seen this be an issue on cars with a lot of load on the engine.

Example: Automatic, Head Lights ON, AC ON, Sprintex Supercharger, 69mm Pulley.

With all that we have seen the battery voltages literally drop down very low (12+ range from 13.9-14) causing the engine to want to stumble and die. The scenario above and similar have been brought to our attention and we are seeing what we can do.

Also if you have installed under drive pulleys, light weight flywheels or similar this can also cause similar problems. Lighter under drive pulleys and flywheels is something we do not support in our tunes currently.

Cheers,
William Knose
Delicious Tuning

[DeliciousTuning]

Originally Posted by brianhj

Lol I want a header and maybe exhaust but I don't want anything loud. Probably EL header with cat. Like I said the more gains I can get out of the twin screw the less the whine will annoy me ahahhaha.

The 4 maps... is there a difference between 1 and 2 besides auto-blip?

We customize each tune to each customer. So their is no standard package for all, more of a recommended setup.

With that in mind we are working to improve our website to offer more options (which I am sure gets confusing). We are working on short explanations of each to give a better idea of what each feature/option does.

As for the throttle control.

MAP 1: SOFT
MAP 2: STANDARD & Auto Throttle-Blip
MAP 3: SPORT (Optional - Fuel Type: E85 or 93)
MAP 4: DRAG & Auto Throttle-Blip (Optional - Fuel Type: E85 or 93)

STANDARD is what we usually offer most customers if nothing specific is requested. This has the most normal feel for the vehicle and offer a solid feel of control from the pedal.

SOFT is what it states. It has a very light feeling to it. Something for those that want a super nice control from the pedal. It is incredibly linear to the point of almost being annoying, just keep pushing and pushing down to get more power.

SPORT is for those of you that run autocross or track event or even canyon/country road runs. It is fairly aggressive with a quick response from the throttle. Great for in and out of tight corners and something most track goers enjoy.

DRAG is literally down to the floor as fast as possible. No restrictions just all out throttle response. We have found this to be extremely aggressive and something to use sparingly. It is at the opposite side of the spectrum from soft.

Cheers,
William Knose
Delicious Tuning

[xxscaxx]

Originally Posted by Dustin

I ended up retapping the threads from BPT to NPT and used brass NPT fittings. Many hard miles so far with no issues.

Should have probably mentioned that if you use NPT to retap.

Sorry Sprintex, should have clarified that as well. Am well aware you guys use BPT.

[JesseE]

Originally Posted by Fizz

Apologies if this has already been answered (too many pages to read), but anyone here using the non-IC kit, under high temp conditions? Such as ambient temps of around 100-110F? With 91 octane fuel? Would appreciate some feedback....

I see so many guys in here running the non-IC kits, but this isn't an option for us in Australia as they only sell the intercooled versions. I've been advised that non-IC isn't suitable for our market, but I wanted to explore this further.

I run non-intercooled here in Arizona... summers are 100-115 for 3 months straight.


no engine oil cooler (yet)
we also have 91 octane.


no problems

[MINOCIN]

Originally Posted by DeliciousTuning

DRAG is literally down to the floor as fast as possible. No restrictions just all out throttle response. We have found this to be extremely aggressive and something to use sparingly. It is at the opposite side of the spectrum from soft.

Whoops, I've been using drag every time I go to a track event

Map 4 has the best throttle response and it performs the auto throttle blip for me which is awesome!
I know, I know. I should be performing my own heel-toe at the track, but I prefer to cheat
Especially since I'm not good at it.

@DeliciousTuning when you say to use Map 4 sparingly, does only at the race track count? So, 4-5 20 minute long sessions with about an hour in between each session and for only about a total of 6-10 days a year. Would that be considered sparingly? Also, I only run Map 4 with 100 octane race fuel.

Do you say to use it sparingly because it may burn out the cats quicker or is it too hard on the engine or is there perhaps another reason?

If map 4 is too dangerous for the engine at the track then please let me know and I'll switch to MAP3 instead.

Your input and feedback is greatly appreciated

[brianhj]

I only have 2 maps available when I try to switch using cruise control

[TemeCal]

Originally Posted by brianhj

I only have 2 maps available when I try to switch using cruise control

Who is your tuner? Your tuner is the one that sets up the maps.