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Electronics | Audio | NAV | Infotainment Anything related to in-car electronics, navigation, and infotainment.


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Old 02-16-2014, 02:35 PM   #15
robwbright
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Originally Posted by so26 View Post
Not yet but I'd like to put the 4" version of the infinity speakers in the rear.
The tech/install guy who installed my sub in the trunk 10 days ago says that it would be easy enough to install 5.25" or 6.5" speakers in the back - says the mounting bracket for the stock ones could just be cut back and that there's plenty of depth for a bigger speaker. He said if it were him he'd just leave the smaller hole for the bigger speakers.

I may eventually replace the doors and backs with Memphis 6.5s... but the sub addition made a really big difference. I bought the Rockford Fosgate P300-10 powered sub for $153 shipped.

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...e_P300-10.aspx

It fits almost perfectly under the back deck - so much so that if you turn it a bit sideways, it won't move at all. Don't expect to blow the back window - but I wasn't looking for that. I wanted enough bass to fill out the bottom and be able to feel it a bit in the car.At low volumes the stock system had ZERO bass. Now it sounds balanced. With the sub turned all the way up and the deck at 70%+ volume, the rear view mirror shakes. On some songs I actually turn the sub down a bit because it overwhelms the mids and highs. It enabled me to turn the 3 lowest bands of the EQ in the stock deck down a couple notches - which reduced some of the rattles in the doors.

If you're looking to make the stock system sound decent for a very reasonable amount of money, I'd recommend the Rockford.
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Old 02-20-2014, 11:18 PM   #16
so26
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Originally Posted by Whos2sayJay View Post
Can you explain how you did this? I want to do the same thing, but I'm not sure I understand the concept. I know the 3.5 inch speaker won't receive a signal if the stock tweeter harness is not connected, how do you bypass that?
The little red wires pushed into the wiring harness as seen in last pic of my 1st post shows you how to jump the connects.
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Old 03-12-2014, 12:16 PM   #17
michaelahess
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Originally Posted by onefitz View Post
Found a lot of that rattling is actually coming from the window/door lock control boxes. A little sound deadening stuck to them to keep it from rattling made a world of difference.
I hot glued the crap outa all bits and pieces that connected to other bits and pieces, as well as the sound deadener. SILENCE
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