HPDE tires - 2019 edition

[Jamestl]

As others have said, you'd want to get max camber up front. But instead of one pair of camber bolts, get two sets (for top and bottom). I was able to get -2.9 this way. Very cheap way to get better tire wear.

[EAGLE5]

Some people say it might not hold the settings well that way, though.

[showrun]

I've read every thread I could find (and I don't suck at searching on the intarwebs) the more I read, the more confused I get as to which size bolt to buy (14 vs 16mm) and which hole to use (top vs bottom). Then some people say both. Others say camber bolt in bottom, then move bottom stock bolt to the top....

[EAGLE5]

If I recollect correctly, camber bolts are usually for the bottom. You can get a crash bolt that uses a real Subaru part or a camber bolt that is lopsided. Then if you want, the smaller stock bolt can replace the larger top bolt, but then you have two places that can potentially slide instead of one, ruining your suspension setup.

[Tristor]

Originally Posted by showrun

I've read every thread I could find (and I don't suck at searching on the intarwebs) the more I read, the more confused I get as to which size bolt to buy (14 vs 16mm) and which hole to use (top vs bottom). Then some people say both. Others say camber bolt in bottom, then move bottom stock bolt to the top....

The top and bottom holes are differently sized. If you have 16mm camber bolts (ala Whiteline) they go in the top, if you have the OEM "crash bolts" which are 14mm they go in the bottom. If you use "crash bolts" you can move the non-eccentric 14mm bolt from the bottom into the 16mm top hole to gain more negative camber, although I find this a risky proposition.

[Vesartis]

Originally Posted by showrun

I've read every thread I could find (and I don't suck at searching on the intarwebs) the more I read, the more confused I get as to which size bolt to buy (14 vs 16mm) and which hole to use (top vs bottom). Then some people say both. Others say camber bolt in bottom, then move bottom stock bolt to the top....

Yah, it definitely isn't clear, so to summarize:
Two bolts connect the knuckle to the strut. The lower bolt/hole is 14mm and the upper bolt/hole is 16mm. (No slop or adjustment) Not every camber bolt kit description specifies which size it is, but the instructions should tell you which hole to use, so that would let you know the size.

So you have three commom options:
1. Replace lower bolt with an eccentric/lobed 14mm bolt.
2. Replace upper bolt with an eccentric/lobed 16mm bolt.
3. Replace lower bolt with an eccentric/lobed 14mm bolt and move the original 14 mm "crash" bolt to the upper 16mm hole. This would give you extra play in the top bolt for adjustment. Slightly risky as you are relying on the friction and tension of the bolt to hold position rather than direct contact.

[Jamestl]

Originally Posted by jsimon7777

Some people say it might not hold the settings well that way, though.

Personal experience is that it’s been fine for at least a season on track (~10 days). But of course if you have an off that could throw off the alignment. I think you run that risk regardless of its one or two camber bolts.

Also camber gained via at the hub is better than at the plates as the plates will gain more camber when the wheels turn.

[i8ur911]

Others have mentioned it, but I'd highly recommend a set of Michelin Pilot 4S's or even the Conti Extreme Contact Sport (looks identical to the Pilot 4S).

Both tires will give you plenty of slip angle to help with learning and car control as well as be good in the rain.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[Opie]

Originally Posted by showrun

I've read a lot about the RE 71R. My understanding is that it is very fast, but only for a very short amount of time before overheating. Great for ax, time attack and such, less so for 20-30 minute sessions. And they last 1-2 days. Has your experience been different?

I run the RE-71R exclusively, they are a fast and sticky tire that also has decent grip in the rain. I easily get 10+ track days out of a set in hot, Central Florida and for the most part, drive the car to and from the track days.

That being said tire pressures and temps need to be monitored between sessions and adjusted as needed. Have been running -2.1 camber in the front and -1.9 in the rear.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by Vesartis

Yah, it definitely isn't clear, so to summarize:
Two bolts connect the knuckle to the strut. The lower bolt/hole is 14mm and the upper bolt/hole is 16mm. (No slop or adjustment) Not every camber bolt kit description specifies which size it is, but the instructions should tell you which hole to use, so that would let you know the size.

So you have three commom options:
1. Replace lower bolt with an eccentric/lobed 14mm bolt.
2. Replace upper bolt with an eccentric/lobed 16mm bolt.
3. Replace lower bolt with an eccentric/lobed 14mm bolt and move the original 14 mm "crash" bolt to the upper 16mm hole. This would give you extra play in the top bolt for adjustment. Slightly risky as you are relying on the friction and tension of the bolt to hold position rather than direct contact.

The load on the upper bolt is going to want to force it to slip towards more negative camber, as long as you're not adjusting camber with the upper bolt it'll never slip on you.

I'm running the SPC lobed bolt in the bottom hole, stock bottom bolt in the upper hole on KW V3's and it maxed out at -3.8*. It's dialed back to -3.2* by the bottom lobed bolt, and is actually SUPER easy to adjust on the alignment rack. Don't have to lift the car or anything. They've been on for about a year and zero signs of slippage.

[BigTuna]

I had Maxxis Victra VR1s on my car for a while and loved them. I only AutoX'd with them, but I know there are a few people on here that use them for HPDE and track days.

[venturaII]

I have to say, what the RT615 K+ lack in outright grip compared to the hero tires like Rival S and RE-71R, they more than make up for in consistency, durability, and as such, great value as a track tire. It's not like you'll go wrong with them, that's for sure. I'm driving the piss outta mine (~1:24 laps at Thompson), and they look fantastic after 6 or 7 half track days...

[DarkSideFRS]

i have a few friends running the Toyo Proxes RR for track... so far so good

[dpaqu]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Is your priority going fast, or getting long life, or maximizing learning?

Lower grip tires will force you to find other ways to find speed; the stock tires are fantastic for that.

Don't get stuck in the "corvette driver" mentality!

I've got 5 track days and 20K miles of commuting on the stockers. They are about done so this thread is relevant to me. It's finally hot enough (on the brakes hard enough?) that I've felt them go greasy. If your ok with not getting griptastic ~200tw tires the dilemma becomes finding a hard/street tire that doesn't go away when it's hot. Nobody talks about that because we all buy "track day tires" for the track.


I'd love to know if the traditional summer street tires like the PS4S or Continental equivalent will hold up to the heat generated by a stock powered 86 without the grip giving out and me wasting a 7/10th lap to get them to come back.