First service at Dealer

[xXDeathMaliCeXx]

So I'm taking my car into the dealer later today for the first servicing (oil change, etc.) I told the guy I'm only a little over 5,500 miles and he didn't seem to mind that I wasn't near 7,500.

But what I'm wondering is that I asked him how much it would be for them to change the transmission fluid and diff fluid just in case of the off chance that there are some metal shavings in there due to break-in that should be flushed out. And he told me I was years off having to have that stuff changed and he would hate to see me waste a couple hundred dollars...

Why would getting my transmission fluid and diff fluid getting changed cost a couple hundred dollars? I'd much rather do it myself.

Are my concerns with metal shavings valid? Or is it just a waste of money and time to change out those fluids right now? Another thing I was wondering is that I've read dealers started using the blue oil filter instead of the black one, can I request they use a black one instead or would they charge me extra? I'm sure this all probably depends on the dealer, but I just want to see some other people's input on this and what they've experienced.

[so26]

From what I've seen on this forum plus my own experience I would suggest changing the diff oil.

[xn7485]

Do it yourself. They can't control the prices and it's way expensive.
Do trans oil for a smoother shift feel, don't need to replace these washers since they're flat and cost $5 each. I put RedLine MT90, but your call to what you wanna replace it with.
Do rear diff, there is a TON of shavings, normal but I wouldn't wanna keep that inside for whenever service interval is. I used Motul Gear 300 LS, but again up to you. Definitely need to buy replacement washers since both of these are crush type.

Drive your car for a little before doing these oil changes, to let them drain easier. I had my car up for 1hr+ waiting for it to stop but it never did.

Also, the blue filter's for the Forester and other models. BRZ's all use the bigger (and better apparently) black filters. I don't know if they've changed that recently, but get the black one if possible. Looks better anyways.

Here's the awesome guide by @F1point4 that I used: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19218

[charged86]

After my first oil change they pulled up my car and said we were going to give a rotation but we couldnt find your wheel lock key. I said " its in my owners manual in the glove box where your salesman put it".............. Couple of future FBI detectives.

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by xXDeathMaliCeXx

Are my concerns with metal shavings valid? Or is it just a waste of money and time to change out those fluids right now? Another thing I was wondering is that I've read dealers started using the blue oil filter instead of the black one, can I request they use a black one instead or would they charge me extra? I'm sure this all probably depends on the dealer, but I just want to see some other people's input on this and what they've experienced.

Waste of time is entirely up to you, it's not a secret that the stock transmission fluids aren't the best.

Metal shavings won't be an issue, because the drain plugs are magnetic and would catch any iron parts.

As for the oil filter, the black ones are all made in Japan. Subaru (like a lot of other makers) have switched over to US-made filters that are blue, and supposedly the filtration medium is inferior.

-alex

[xXDeathMaliCeXx]

Originally Posted by xn7485

Here's the awesome guide by @F1point4 that I used: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19218

Very good guide! I saw that before and that's what got me thinking I probably should do something soonish.

Originally Posted by mav1178

Waste of time is entirely up to you, it's not a secret that the stock transmission fluids aren't the best.

Metal shavings won't be an issue, because the drain plugs are magnetic and would catch any iron parts.

As for the oil filter, the black ones are all made in Japan. Subaru (like a lot of other makers) have switched over to US-made filters that are blue, and supposedly the filtration medium is inferior.

-alex

I must have gotten lucky because I scratched the top of my filter before I took it in for service and I have a brand new black one now. Seems like the dealership I went to doesn't get many FR-S's in I suppose. Just ordered 4 qts of Motul 300 75w90 to change out the tranny and diff fluid myself. I know the diff plug is magnetic, but is the tranny plug?

And this thread can be closed whenever, I went to the dealer and didn't have a problem with anything. As a matter of fact I was a day early for my service appointment... but luckily they still took my car that day. I just told them not to wash it cause I can and would rather do that myself.

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by xXDeathMaliCeXx

I know the diff plug is magnetic, but is the tranny plug?

2:05 mark:
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a98b0X0ahIY"]Differential and Transmission Fluid Swap with Red Line Oil - 2013 Subaru BRZ and Scion FR-S - YouTube[/ame]

Most manual transmission plugs are magnetic. Automatic transmissions usually don't have this, but have a filter instead.

-alex

[so26]

Originally Posted by xXDeathMaliCeXx

Just ordered 4 qts of Motul 300 75w90 to change out the tranny and diff fluid myself.

Hmmm Motul 300 is great in the diff but maybe a little too thick in the trans especially in the winter.

IMO this would be a safer choice for trans.
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/manual/manual-synchromesh-transmission-fluid-5w-30/?page=%2fstorefront%2fmtf.aspx

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by so26

Hmmm Motul 300 is great in the diff but maybe a little too thick in the trans especially in the winter.

IMO this would be a safer choice for trans.
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/manual/manual-synchromesh-transmission-fluid-5w-30/?page=%2fstorefront%2fmtf.aspx

Wow, that stuff is thinner at 100C than most 5W-30 engine oils. Safer? Probably not. My guess is that it's very weak in Extreme Pressure additives, even much lower than GL-4.

Where's the unlike button? Do you have a voa or uoa on it, perhaps?

Designed for manual transmissions and transaxles with synchromesh systems that require light viscosity, non-extreme-pressure fortified oil.

Applications
Recommended for automotive and light-truck applications that require synchromesh transmission fluid. Applications include manual transmissions and transaxles such as New Venture NV T350, NV 1500, NV 2550, NV 3500, NV 3550, NV 5600, and Tremec T4, T5, T18, T56, T176, TKO500, TKO600, TR 3450 and TR 3550. Replaces MTF-94 fluid for Land Rover, MG, and Mini Cooper. Replaces Honda Genuine MTF fluid for manual transaxles and Texaco MTX fluid. Not for use in engines, hypoid rear axles, limited-slip or wet-clutch applications

It might work very well for you, especially if you're a very careful shifter and do not drive the car hard (hello, you have an FR-S ), although I would only use a GL-4 or GL-4/5 oil in the transmission.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1231182&page=1

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=729255#Post7292 55

-Dennis

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by so26

IMO this would be a safer choice for trans.
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/manual/manual-synchromesh-transmission-fluid-5w-30/?page=%2fstorefront%2fmtf.aspx

I think you meant this one?
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...?code=MTGQT-EA

Factory fill is 75W-90. I don't think you want to deviate from that temp range too much...

-alex

[FRSRAVEN]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

Wow, that stuff is thinner at 100C than most 5W-30 engine oils. Safer? Probably not. My guess is that it's very weak in Extreme Pressure additives, even much lower than GL-4.

Where's the unlike button? Do you have a voa or uoa on it, perhaps?



It might work very well for you, especially if you're a very careful shifter and do not drive the car hard (hello, you have an FR-S ), although I would only use a GL-4 or GL-4/5 oil in the transmission.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1231182&page=1

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=729255#Post7292 55

-Dennis

This has been beaten to death, but our transmissions suffer from very poor cold shifting performance. Even on simply cool days, I had issues with first gear and 3rd gear changes.
I went with the Amsoil Syncromesh fluid, and my shifts are better in every aspect...cold, hot, etc. If I was tracking the car, I might opt for a heavier weight fluid, but the Amsoil Syncromesh offers plenty of protection for a daily driven vehicle, even one that is routinely flogged. There was a rather lengthy thread on the subject, regarding the use of a particular Pentosin fluid that is even thinner that the above linked fluid (7 cST vs. 9.7 cST).