Another V8 Swap

[Corley]

Yea the dry sump would be mess and $$$. I was out on the car tried a -8 male to -8 female ORB. To close to the pan to turn the fitting in . I can get them cheep like $7. So looks like banjo bolts. I haven't contacted anyone yet to see what the flow is on them. Or machine the pan side to have ports and weld the bottom ones shut.

[M1K3]

I am going to have to tackle this issue too and I was looking at these ultra low profile 90 fittings:

[wooly35]

@Dustin.... do the CAI, you wont be sorry. I had quite a bit of hesitation with where I had the MAF(right next to the air filter) during highway speeds, but had a decent amount more power during WOT. So I swapped back to our original design, just to see if I still had hesitation at cruising speed. Car drove smooth.

So, I reinstalled the CAI, move the MAF into a strait section...Car runs smooth at cruising speed...the increase in power was also more noticeable once I figured out the MAF problem.

Do the CAI, you wont be sorry. lol

[cf6mech]

Dustin, watching in great interest with the sway bar delema.....i have been at this point for about a year now....

[DustinS]

Originally Posted by wooly35

@Dustin.... do the CAI, you wont be sorry. I had quite a bit of hesitation with where I had the MAF(right next to the air filter) during highway speeds, but had a decent amount more power during WOT. So I swapped back to our original design, just to see if I still had hesitation at cruising speed. Car drove smooth.

So, I reinstalled the CAI, move the MAF into a strait section...Car runs smooth at cruising speed...the increase in power was also more noticeable once I figured out the MAF problem.

Do the CAI, you wont be sorry. lol

Yeah I am going to be working on moving mine out from behind the radiator. Looking at what bends I need. I need to grab a slim fan set-up. The factory one is quite large and looks out of place with everything else.

@cf6mech Will do! I am going to see if I can hold the engine from the top and drop the subframe. Take the oil pan off, check everything from underneath and modify the pan. Also going to ask a local shop about a tubular subframe to give me extra clearance all around.

[all4spl]

Originally Posted by DustinS

Yeah I am going to be working on moving mine out from behind the radiator. Looking at what bends I need. I need to grab a slim fan set-up. The factory one is quite large and looks out of place with everything else.

@cf6mech Will do! I am going to see if I can hold the engine from the top and drop the subframe. Take the oil pan off, check everything from underneath and modify the pan. Also going to ask a local shop about a tubular subframe to give me extra clearance all around.

Pretty sure someone is currently offering a tubular subframe already for the car

[mrk1]

TSS fab makes a tubular subframe with LS mounts

[DustinS]

I went and looked at their website. Kind of chuckled.

[all4spl]

haha It's listed as V8 includes the urethane mounts that attach to the motor

[DustinS]

Mhmm. I would still need to modify it as I am most certain the mounts are not in the same location as the vorshlag.

[wrxdriver2002]

Originally Posted by mrk1

TSS fab makes a tubular subframe with LS mounts

TSS Does make a tubular subframe. It was built around my car. The placement of the engine is a little bit different than all of the other kits. If it doesn't work for you, it's easily modified.

[all4spl]

Can you shed some info on a few things with it?


A: heater hoses? still have them?
B: sway bar bolt up?
C: Height requirement?

[wrxdriver2002]

Originally Posted by all4spl

Can you shed some info on a few things with it?


A: heater hoses? still have them?
B: sway bar bolt up?
C: Height requirement?

My engine is an LSA (2013 ZL1 Camaro), so it required me cutting a hole in the hood for supercharger clearance. I can't answer height requirement for you.

Sway bar does not bolt up for two reasons. 1st being the long tube headers. I had to cut the sway bar bushing brackets off of the sway bar mount to get the sway bar on there. I don't know if an OEM sway bar would have fit because of the oil pan. I'm running a stock LS2 GTO pan with an improved racing baffle.

I absolutely still have heater hoses and will be finishing up the AC soon. The AC lines are going to require modification for a couple of reasons. First being the GM compressor, second because I am using the AC to cool the water for the supercharger, and third because the OEM lines hit the engine with how far they protrude from the firewall. As soon as we figure out the AC canbus stuff, we can get the cabin AC system working.

[all4spl]

Are you running a sway bar? What does that look like? Also what are you doing for transmission and transmission mounts?


Sorry for the thread jack! Hope this helps multiple people out