DIY - Spec D Headlight Retrofit LED Bar (Completely Reversible)

[Mr Mister]

I have found that the LED 'boomerang' on the Spec D Headlights is too dim for me during the day, so I decided to retrofit the headlight to install a switchback one that was much brighter. If you are just swapping out the LED Bar for a different one then you should be able to get this done in an afternoon (Approx 4 hours taking your time) and the process is completely reversible! However, if you are doing the full change of LED Bar, painting the inside housing, and changing sealant, I would allow 2 full days and this process is of course, not completely reversible. Note: The pictures shown are from both the left and right headlights, which may appear confusing at times.

Tools Required:
Heat Gun (Or Oven)
Various Sized Flathead Screwdrivers
Phillips Head Screwdriver
Crimp Tool
Wire Connectors
Zip Ties
Half Loop Wire Connector
New LED Bar
Spray Paint (Optional)
Butyl Tape or Different Silicone Sealant (Optional)
Razor Blade/Small Sharp Knife (Optional)

Remove your headlights from the car. As my headlights were unable to fit into my oven, I had to use a heat gun to remove the top from the bottom. I found it best to focus on getting the pointy (inside) edge open first and then moving down the headlight. It is best to hold the heat gun about 3cm (about an inch) from the gap where the top and bottom parts attach, on the lower heat setting (350°C). Heat for around 10 seconds while continuously moving the heat gun back and forth over an area around 20cm. Once the sealant is soft enough you should be able to pry it open, the flathead screwdrivers will help. As you pull the pieces away from each other, keep using the heat gun where the bits are still stuck together just a bit further down.







Keep prying the pieces apart and eventually you will have two separate pieces with a disconnect able wire holding them together. It comes apart by pressing the tab pictured and pulling away from each other.




The LED 'boomerang' can be taken off by removing the 3 screws holding it down, and then lifting it out off of the metal guides.




Here is what lights up the LED 'boomerang', 33 small LED's.




Optional:
If the LED Bar that you are installing is a switchback, then you can simply remove the indicator bulbs by undoing the screws behind each and pulling then out.



The wiring unit is held down with a small amount of glue which can be peeled off easily.



To take out the plastic piece that held the indicators and LED, remove the 4 screws from around the outside and take it out. This does take a little bit of jiggling to get it off properly.



Once the piece is separated you are then able to take off the fogged plastic 'boomerang' by pressing each of the (I think) 5 clips down with a small flathead screwdriver and then pulling it out. When taking this out there is a small bit of clear silicone at each end of the piece. These can be taken out with the help of some small nose pliers and scraping with a small flathead screwdriver.





Test fitting the new LED Bar.



Optional: If you want to paint the inside cover, get a good spray paint that will stand up to the events. I put three light coats on to just cover the entire front of the piece. Make sure that you clean/wipe it down first.





Moving to the other part of the headlight now, you may want to remove the lens and cover so that it doesn't get damaged. You'll need to cut the wires that were attached to the front part right here, and slide off the sleeve.







You'll then need to strip the 3 wires and attach them to the ones from your new LED Bar using the connectors shown and a crimping tool. Be sure to crimp both the plastic part and the metal part. Lightly tug on the wires to ensure there is no movement.






For the ground wire, my LED kit came with some extra wire, which I used to extend the positive power wire out of the headlight, via the rubber backing, through the indicator hole.





Using the needle nose pliers to open the gap on the inner housing as much as possible without breaking it, slide the LED Bar through it and sit it in correctly by pushing it down.




If your LED Bar came with a controller unit, this spot here is the perfect spot to stick it.




Optional: Scrape off the silicone front the clear lens with a razor blade and use a flathead screwdriver for the other part.




For the wiring (my headlight is the Toyota 86 GTS/BRZ/8 Pin version) to have the LED Bar always on, remove this white pin from the harness by removing the white cover with the pliers, then use a small flathead screwdriver to lift up the bit above it (as shown in the picture), while lightly pulling the back of the wire. Then splice the white wire into this red and white wire here on the automatic headlight adjuster.






Optional: Peel the paper off of the butyl tape and sit it along the edge of the plastic cover. Press down the sides to get some good coverage, over where you can see the remains of the old sealant. Spend about 2 minutes heating all of the way around the butyl tape before pressing it together with the other piece. Put the final screws in and screw them tightly to pull the pieces together. I used clamps around the clips for about 10 minutes to hold them in. Cut off excess with a razor blade.








Repeat with the other headlight.

Some comparison shots - The new LED Bar is much brighter than the old one and you can see that it is white instead of purple like the original one. The pictures do not do the new LED Bar justice for it's brightness compared with the standard one.





Attach your red wire coming out of the headlights to a wire that will go to the positive power on the battery using a half loop connector. Run the wire to both headlights and zip tie it to hide it.



Reattach your headlights, test and enjoy!





Side Note: Using one of these LED Flexible Bars is great for just a DRL solution as they are much brighter than many other seamless/continuous strip DRL's, however not as bright as the Mercedes celis rod DRL's. If you are installing a switchback make sure that you test the indicator in daylight before installing because these can be basically useless during the day, which would be a defect basically anywhere (if you have disconnected your lower guard indicator).

[Futaba]

Nice write up! I'd love to black out my headlights but i really dont want to lose high beam

[Tselmeg916]

Where did you get the new led flexible bar? And how long is it?

[Mr Mister]

Originally Posted by Tselmeg916

Where did you get the new led flexible bar? And how long is it?

I bought it directly from a supplier I found on AliExpress but there are heaps of them for sale on eBay pretty cheap. The length of it is 60cm and it was the perfect size for the housing.

[Vincenttam]

I found it funny that op's left hand slowly started get even more obliterated as the post continued lol. Thanks for the hard work, bookmarked.

[Brandar]

Do you have a video of the End product? Would love to see it working.

[zypher10]

hey mate, how did u keep the led bar form moving?

[Mr Mister]

Originally Posted by zypher10

hey mate, how did u keep the led bar form moving?

The tube was a tight fit into the space so it has sort of held itself in there.

[Mr Mister]

Originally Posted by Brandar

Do you have a video of the End product? Would love to see it working.

I have a video from when I was testing the indicator but I'm not sure how to share it on here.

[William's BRZ]

This is awesome! I added some led strips on my stock tail lights that are sequential since I painted the housing black. Lol

[YamahaR86]

Do you still have the old DRL laying around? I'd like to see what size type of LEDs are so I can solder new colored ones in instead.

Only thing I don't like about the new LED bar you put in is it's a solid white with it off.