DIY - Changing Your Brake Pads (Race Pads upgrade) - Page 4 - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

jvincent · 01-27-2016, 02:20 PM

The most important thing to do when you change pads or rotors is to press the brake a few times in the driveway before you drive off.

If the pedal doesn't feel firm, you have messed something up. Even if you haven't messed something up you will need one or two presses for the pistons to get to the right spot.

Just my two cents, bleeding the brake lines is terribly simple compared to the rest of the brake change. If you aren't in a hurry you can just gravity bleed them.

snuff58 · 05-09-2016, 11:26 AM

Nice write up! I decided to swap pads AND rotors for track. I keep my street pads and rotors just for that. To keep things in order, I marked all pads and rotors with marking paint to put parts in the same place each time. When swapping back after track days, I measure my pads and rotors before stowing.
(Centric OE replacement rotors, Carbotech XP8 front and rear.)

BFIFE22 · 11-20-2016, 08:55 PM

Thanks for the write up! Simplest brake pad swap I've done on any car

BuffDriver · 02-20-2017, 11:06 PM

One thing not mentioned but I have seen cause problems in the past on other cars (and might here on Toybarus, so this is both a statement and question about BRZ / FT86) when replacing pads on a street car is that as the pads wear the piston stays protruded somewhat and does not retract all the way into the caliper. And the sides of the piston pick up dirt and may even rust or pit where exposed or even under the rubber seal boot.

The problem happens when you push the piston all the way back into the caliper without CLEANING it and the 'trash' stuck to the exposed part of the piston and possible pits on the piston end up going through the seal, sometimes damaging it and causing leaks a while later. This will not happen on a car being tracked and having frequent brake work but can happen on a DD where it might have been a couple of years since the pistons were 100% cycled in and out. Maybe the piston seal will scrape the crud off before it rides thru and maybe it will not... sure a lot easier to check n clean and prevent the problem.

Something to check when you do a brake job so that you don't end up rebuilding your calipers. Voice of experience as I worked my way through college working at a gas station and 'fixing' other mechanics screw ups on brakes, etc.

Nastiest brake job EVER... replacing the rotors on the Jaguar XJ-S coupes inboard rear brake setup. Rotors are not on the wheels but are either side of the differential to reduce unsprung weight! Book was WAY wrong on chargeable time.

four-mat · 11-12-2017, 03:30 AM

Are there drum brakes on any 86's?

mrg666 · 11-12-2017, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by four-mat

Are there drum brakes on any 86's?

Rear brakes are dual: drum and disc. Drum brakes are operated with hand brakes. Disc brakes are hydraulic operated with brake foot pedal.

colobrio · 03-15-2020, 05:52 PM

Hey, all. Thanks to OP for the write up. I'm changing my rear pads. Left was completely smooth, removed lower bolt, loosened up bolt, and caliper rotated right off. I cannot remove the right, even with both bolts removed. The piston is pressing down and won't release. I tried a fair amount of force and bleeding fluid, but it's on there. Once I got off the highway driving home from the track yesterday (i.e., when the exhaust wasn't as loud), I could hear the brake on that side "dragging" a bit. By that point I was 3 miles from home so I finished the drive, but between that and this, it's like the piston's just not properly releasing. Any ideas?

Jyn · 03-16-2020, 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by colobrio

Hey, all. Thanks to OP for the write up. I'm changing my rear pads. Left was completely smooth, removed lower bolt, loosened up bolt, and caliper rotated right off. I cannot remove the right, even with both bolts removed. The piston is pressing down and won't release. I tried a fair amount of force and bleeding fluid, but it's on there. Once I got off the highway driving home from the track yesterday (i.e., when the exhaust wasn't as loud), I could hear the brake on that side "dragging" a bit. By that point I was 3 miles from home so I finished the drive, but between that and this, it's like the piston's just not properly releasing. Any ideas?

Piston may have seized.

gravitylover · 03-16-2020, 10:44 AM

Yup probably overheated and seized.

colobrio · 03-17-2020, 03:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gravitylover

Yup probably overheated and seized.

Yeah, looks to be the case. I finally forced the caliper off, and the boot that protects the piston was shot, and the piston had a decent bit of corrosion and some pitting, so it probably was a bit disposed to seize.

gravitylover · 03-17-2020, 04:06 PM

Yeah I gotta get in and take a look at my back brakes, it sure feels like one is dragging. A little bit warmer weather and it will be time to dig in.

ShadowReaper · 09-03-2021, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by becauseracecar1

Attachment 79745
Attachment 79746
Will this Work?
Thanks!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Only 7 years late but that trolley jack is garbage. It will do fine with tire rotations and oil changes but it doesn't elevate the car much to do comfortable work under the car as it's raised. I'm so happy with my Arcan 2 Ton Low Profile Steel Floor Jack XL20

05-09-2016, 11:26 AM	#44
snuff58 Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Drives: 2014 Subaru BRZ Limited MTblue Location: Ohio Posts: 95 Thanks: 20 Thanked 34 Times in 21 Posts Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	pads and rotors for the track Nice write up! I decided to swap pads AND rotors for track. I keep my street pads and rotors just for that. To keep things in order, I marked all pads and rotors with marking paint to put parts in the same place each time. When swapping back after track days, I measure my pads and rotors before stowing. (Centric OE replacement rotors, Carbotech XP8 front and rear.)

02-20-2017, 11:06 PM	#46
BuffDriver Member Join Date: Oct 2016 Drives: 2016 Subaru BRZ Location: Houston area, Texas Posts: 66 Thanks: 13 Thanked 41 Times in 22 Posts Mentioned: 1 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	One thing not mentioned but I have seen cause problems in the past on other cars (and might here on Toybarus, so this is both a statement and question about BRZ / FT86) when replacing pads on a street car is that as the pads wear the piston stays protruded somewhat and does not retract all the way into the caliper. And the sides of the piston pick up dirt and may even rust or pit where exposed or even under the rubber seal boot. The problem happens when you push the piston all the way back into the caliper without CLEANING it and the 'trash' stuck to the exposed part of the piston and possible pits on the piston end up going through the seal, sometimes damaging it and causing leaks a while later. This will not happen on a car being tracked and having frequent brake work but can happen on a DD where it might have been a couple of years since the pistons were 100% cycled in and out. Maybe the piston seal will scrape the crud off before it rides thru and maybe it will not... sure a lot easier to check n clean and prevent the problem. Something to check when you do a brake job so that you don't end up rebuilding your calipers. Voice of experience as I worked my way through college working at a gas station and 'fixing' other mechanics screw ups on brakes, etc. Nastiest brake job EVER... replacing the rotors on the Jaguar XJ-S coupes inboard rear brake setup. Rotors are not on the wheels but are either side of the differential to reduce unsprung weight! Book was WAY wrong on chargeable time. __________________ Edelbrock SC kit w/ ECUtek tune, Oil Cooler, UEL catted header, Perrin 2.5 Overpipe n Catted midpipe, 3.0 Catback resonated (all exhst ceramic coated), TRD short shifter, MTEC clutch n trans springs, Trans: Pentosin MTF2, Diff: Motul 75W90, Whiteline trans bushing, 3/4" clutch slave cyl., Ferodo DS2500 pads w/Motul 600 fluid, 17x8 wheels n 235/45ZR-17 tires

11-12-2017, 03:30 AM	#47
four-mat Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2015 Drives: 2014 Subaru BRZ Location: USA Posts: 9 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	E-brake / parking break Are there drum brakes on any 86's?

03-16-2020, 10:44 AM	#51
gravitylover Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Drives: 2013 BRZ Premium 6MT White Location: SE NY Posts: 1,503 Thanks: 1,218 Thanked 669 Times in 474 Posts Mentioned: 7 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	Yup probably overheated and seized. __________________

03-17-2020, 04:06 PM	#53
gravitylover Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Drives: 2013 BRZ Premium 6MT White Location: SE NY Posts: 1,503 Thanks: 1,218 Thanked 669 Times in 474 Posts Mentioned: 7 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	Yeah I gotta get in and take a look at my back brakes, it sure feels like one is dragging. A little bit warmer weather and it will be time to dig in. __________________

01-27-2016, 02:20 PM	#43
jvincent Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Drives: 2022 WRB BRZ Sport-Tech Location: Ottawa, Canada Posts: 1,746 Thanks: 131 Thanked 1,410 Times in 715 Posts Mentioned: 25 Post(s) Tagged: 2 Thread(s)	The most important thing to do when you change pads or rotors is to press the brake a few times in the driveway before you drive off. If the pedal doesn't feel firm, you have messed something up. Even if you haven't messed something up you will need one or two presses for the pistons to get to the right spot. Just my two cents, bleeding the brake lines is terribly simple compared to the rest of the brake change. If you aren't in a hurry you can just gravity bleed them.

03-15-2020, 05:52 PM	#49
colobrio Member Join Date: Dec 2019 Drives: 2013 BRZ, 6MT, WR Blue Location: Colorado Posts: 39 Thanks: 14 Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts Mentioned: 1 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Hey, all. Thanks to OP for the write up. I'm changing my rear pads. Left was completely smooth, removed lower bolt, loosened up bolt, and caliper rotated right off. I cannot remove the right, even with both bolts removed. The piston is pressing down and won't release. I tried a fair amount of force and bleeding fluid, but it's on there. Once I got off the highway driving home from the track yesterday (i.e., when the exhaust wasn't as loud), I could hear the brake on that side "dragging" a bit. By that point I was 3 miles from home so I finished the drive, but between that and this, it's like the piston's just not properly releasing. Any ideas?

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