Best FI recipe for an AT, DD, Ambient Temp upto 58 C

[UNREAL]

Dears,

I read a lot of articles about FI TC/SC, some useful info about DD solutions etc...

But I couldn't find a topic that fully specific for my needs, I can sum up my requirements in the following points/questions.

1- My car is a Daily Driver and I want to maintain it as a practical DD, with an extra oomph

2- SC or TC? I like Low-Mid Range torque (My other car has an LS2 V8), I'm still not used to our high revving engine and I feel pissed off when I don't find enough torque to bypass a v6 Toyota Camry/ I know I need more power but I'm worried about FI with a high compression engine... Is it better to rebuild it with HKS 2.1L positive displacement lower compression kit?

3- Where I live heat is scorching high, Really high, i.e. ambient temp. easily reaches to an insane near 60 Degrees Celsius, The engine at OEM specs feels at the borders of its cooling capabilities (Gut Feeling, no Measurements). I considered to cool all (Engine/Engine oil (Pump or passive pressure?)/ AT Transmission (Pump or passive pressure?) Oil -I read somewhere that AT comes with its own OEM cooling solution is that true? / Diff Cooling) what is the real necessity among those?

4- How much RWHP do I need to achieve a 0-100kmh 0-62Mph in less than 5 seconds?

5- Do I need a new brake kit to control the excessive power? or simply a better pads + slotted DBA rotors will be enough? (people drive like freaking hooligans where I reside, sudden braking is expected way more often compared to the rest parts of the world.)

6- It is said that the best 1st upgrade is a better set of wheels/tires.
Is that where I should start?

7- My cars is an AT (Don't Shoot me) I'm not good at driving MT. should I consider SSC stage 2.0 valve body upgrade? Clutch set? new Torque Converter? (Long term durability is my aim more than pure performance, it's AT at the end of the day)/ I noticed some rpm dip when I brake at low speeds, is it a Torque converter issue?

Appreciate your feedback to as much points as possible, if your answer is put in a matching numbered points it will be more appreciated an helpful
Many thanks in advance for your contributions.

PS: Excuse my English its a 2nd language to me.

[Freeman]

Don't worry about your English, it was very well written.

[Shankenstein]

Automatic transmission GT86's have ~7 second 0-60 time. To get to a 5 seconds, you can either drop weight or add power (or a combination of both).

By only adding power, you will need ~500 hp (at the flywheel). By only dropping weight, you will need to to lose ~1700 lbs (on a 2800 lbs car).

The weight target is unrealistic. Even Anthony hasn't gotten close to that (LINK). You can probably lose ~200 lbs without losing much comfort or functionality. At that weight, you would still need 475 hp.

At that power level, some transformation will be required. Cooling system upgrades (radiator, oil, and transmission fluid coolers) are recommended. Fuel system ugprades (pump and injectors) will be needed. Drive shafts and axles might be needed too.

Some supercharger kits can get you there (high flow and small pulley types). There are plenty of medium-sized turbochargers that will meet your goals too.

For E85, you shouldn't need to rebuild the engine internals... but for pump gas it's likely to be necessary. The transmission itself should be OK, but it will wear faster. Upgrading the valve bodies and torque converter might be needed eventually. Fluid changes will be more frequent for both.

[KoolBRZ]

Originally Posted by UNREAL

Dears,

I read a lot of articles about FI TC/SC, some useful info about DD solutions etc...

But I couldn't find a topic that fully specific for my needs, I can sum up my requirements in the following points/questions.

1- My car is a Daily Driver and I want to maintain it as a practical DD, with an extra oomph

2- SC or TC? I like Low-Mid Range torque (My other car has an LS2 V8), I'm still not used to our high revving engine and I feel pissed off when I don't find enough torque to bypass a v6 Toyota Camry/ I know I need more power but I'm worried about FI with a high compression engine... Is it better to rebuild it with HKS 2.1L positive displacement lower compression kit?

3- Where I live heat is scorching high, Really high, i.e. ambient temp. easily reaches to an insane near 60 Degrees Celsius, The engine at OEM specs feels at the borders of its cooling capabilities (Gut Feeling, no Measurements). I considered to cool all (Engine/Engine oil (Pump or passive pressure?)/ AT Transmission (Pump or passive pressure?) Oil -I read somewhere that AT comes with its own OEM cooling solution is that true? / Diff Cooling) what is the real necessity among those?

4- How much RWHP do I need to achieve a 0-100kmh 0-62Mph in less than 5 seconds?

5- Do I need a new brake kit to control the excessive power? or simply a better pads + slotted DBA rotors will be enough? (people drive like freaking hooligans where I reside, sudden braking is expected way more often compared to the rest parts of the world.)

6- It is said that the best 1st upgrade is a better set of wheels/tires.
Is that where I should start?

7- My cars is an AT (Don't Shoot me) I'm not good at driving MT. should I consider SSC stage 2.0 valve body upgrade? Clutch set? new Torque Converter? (Long term durability is my aim more than pure performance, it's AT at the end of the day)/ I noticed some rpm dip when I brake at low speeds, is it a Torque converter issue?

Appreciate your feedback to as much points as possible, if your answer is put in a matching numbered points it will be more appreciated an helpful
Many thanks in advance for your contributions.

PS: Excuse my English its a 2nd language to me.

If you're not concerned with MPG, and you can't get good MPG's with a turbo or supercharger, then get a 4.88 Final Drive gearset for your differential. I have an AT and I had a 4.88 FD installed. It was fun, and it covered up the deficiencies of a poor tune. But, I NEED to be able to get 30 MPG. I drive all over the Portland/Vancouver area, up to 100 miles per day at times. I settled for a 4.30 FD, but would be happier with a 4.55. Since then I've worked on my tune and my car is more fun to drive now, and still gets 30 MPG. I also have the Phantom Electric Supercharger. I still remember when I had my 4.88 and I launched from a stop light in the right lane ends lane. I spun tires in the first 3 gears before the traction control even tried to rein things in, and by that time i was already past everyone else.

[Falcon]

To get your Car under 5s you will have to chance a shitload of things.

1. 4,88 Final Drive
2. Forced Induction - HKS 2.1 Kit with V3 SC is an Option and have a look at the ACE Header
3. Way better Cooling for Everything, Water, AT, Diff, Intercooler
4. Torque Converter
5. Brakes - i would recommed Stoptech
6. Much better Tires and Rims to fit the Brakes

At least you dont have to worry about MPGs - Fuel is stupid cheap where you live.

[strat61caster]

With that arbitrary target you're probably better off with a V8 swap, although I don't think anybody has done an Automatic V8 swap into this car, really only a few have been swapped at all. However cramming big engines into small cars is not a revolutionary formula, I'd think this was a lower risk (although higher cost) than turboing the FA20 up over 400hp.

[UNREAL]

Originally Posted by Freeman

Don't worry about your English, it was very well written.

Thanks for the encouragement

Originally Posted by Shankenstein

Automatic transmission GT86's have ~7 second 0-60 time. To get to a 5 seconds, you can either drop weight or add power (or a combination of both).

By only adding power, you will need ~500 hp (at the flywheel). By only dropping weight, you will need to to lose ~1700 lbs (on a 2800 lbs car).

The weight target is unrealistic. Even Anthony hasn't gotten close to that (LINK). You can probably lose ~200 lbs without losing much comfort or functionality. At that weight, you would still need 475 hp.

At that power level, some transformation will be required. Cooling system upgrades (radiator, oil, and transmission fluid coolers) are recommended. Fuel system ugprades (pump and injectors) will be needed. Drive shafts and axles might be needed too.

Some supercharger kits can get you there (high flow and small pulley types). There are plenty of medium-sized turbochargers that will meet your goals too.

For E85, you shouldn't need to rebuild the engine internals... but for pump gas it's likely to be necessary. The transmission itself should be OK, but it will wear faster. Upgrading the valve bodies and torque converter might be needed eventually. Fluid changes will be more frequent for both.

1- Weight reduction I bought this car because of its a light weight

2- One thing I cannot comprehend here, Why is it so difficult to reach to 0-60 in 5s? when heavier cars i.e.. Nissan 370Z that weighs 1450-1500KG and around 337 BHP have a 0-60 around 5s mark !!

3- As for the available fuel we have 91 Octane and 95 Octane fuel only... I use the "95" one. No option for the E85 unfortunately.

4- About the AT transmission I think it is bloody expensive (Same as Lexus IS/GS AT) that's why I want to be very careful, are you sure (Relatively) that it'll be fine around say 300-350WHP

Originally Posted by KoolBRZ

If you're not concerned with MPG, and you can't get good MPG's with a turbo or supercharger, then get a 4.88 Final Drive gearset for your differential. I have an AT and I had a 4.88 FD installed. It was fun, and it covered up the deficiencies of a poor tune. But, I NEED to be able to get 30 MPG. I drive all over the Portland/Vancouver area, up to 100 miles per day at times. I settled for a 4.30 FD, but would be happier with a 4.55. Since then I've worked on my tune and my car is more fun to drive now, and still gets 30 MPG. I also have the Phantom Electric Supercharger. I still remember when I had my 4.88 and I launched from a stop light in the right lane ends lane. I spun tires in the first 3 gears before the traction control even tried to rein things in, and by that time i was already past everyone else.

I didn't understand your first sentence...
What would be the top speed with FG of 4.88/4.55?
I thought Electric SC are a Urban Myth

Originally Posted by Falcon

To get your Car under 5s you will have to chance a shitload of things.

1. 4,88 Final Drive
2. Forced Induction - HKS 2.1 Kit with V3 SC is an Option and have a look at the ACE Header
3. Way better Cooling for Everything, Water, AT, Diff, Intercooler
4. Torque Converter
5. Brakes - i would recommed Stoptech
6. Much better Tires and Rims to fit the Brakes

At least you dont have to worry about MPGs - Fuel is stupid cheap where you live.

1- Any suggested brands? What would be the Top Speed?
2- I was thinking about the insanely expensive Cosworth Stage 2.3 (It costs 15K USD to be installed and calibrated by a Cosworth Authorized Dealer at Bahrain) the problem is for all that money I will be getting a puny 80bhp... not whp!
3- For the coolers I was thinking to go all Mishimoto!
4- Excuse my ignorance I saw a video that explains how Torque Converter works but I didn't under stand how changing to high stall one will help and what negative effects it'll have on a DD car.
5-6- Clear


I'd like to sincerely thank you all for your time to post your feedback.

I still wish to know more, specially regarding how to cope with the excessive heat. And always bear in mind maintaining the daily drive-ablity (How ever that is spelled)

Kind Regards

[CSG Mike]

There is no replacement for displacement.

You'll be hitting a fuel limitation quickly, whereas a larger engine does not.

I would suggest you consider a V8 swap; this is the most realistic option for your goals.

[UNREAL]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

With that arbitrary target you're probably better off with a V8 swap, although I don't think anybody has done an Automatic V8 swap into this car, really only a few have been swapped at all. However cramming big engines into small cars is not a revolutionary formula, I'd think this was a lower risk (although higher cost) than turboing the FA20 up over 400hp.

Is it that difficult to run the FA20 cool in such a harsh and hot environment?
I already have another car that weighs almost 2 tons with an LS2 6.0L (ME market - Chevrolet Caprice (A re-Badged Holden WM Caprice))... A great and (torque)y engine that I've been driving for the last 7 years...

I bought my Toyota 86 because I wanted a (2 Adults + 2 kids) fun and sporty car for short in-city trips... and the Caprice is for long distances cruises...

I'm extremely happy with the unsurpassed road feel and control I have with the 86, But I'm finding it hard to adapt to the lack of power (Relatively Speaking) specially in the lower and med range...

Appreciate your discussion and reply.

Kind Regards

[UNREAL]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

There is no replacement for displacement.

You'll be hitting a fuel limitation quickly, whereas a larger engine does not.

I would suggest you consider a V8 swap; this is the most realistic option for your goals.

Same reply given to strat61caster above

[8686]

I suggest edelbrock SC

I have the innovate and I see that edelbrock have a better package.

I am located in J town and no problems so far.



Sent from my 86 using Tapatalk

[FRS Justin]

Spencer fabrication turbo kit

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by UNREAL

Is it that difficult to run the FA20 cool in such a harsh and hot environment?
I already have another car that weighs almost 2 tons with an LS2 6.0L (ME market - Chevrolet Caprice (A re-Badged Holden WM Caprice))... A great and (torque)y engine that I've been driving for the last 7 years...

I bought my Toyota 86 because I wanted a (2 Adults + 2 kids) fun and sporty car for short in-city trips... and the Caprice is for long distances cruises...

I'm extremely happy with the unsurpassed road feel and control I have with the 86, But I'm finding it hard to adapt to the lack of power (Relatively Speaking) specially in the lower and med range...

Appreciate your discussion and reply.

Kind Regards

Displacement = torque

Forced induction = artificial displacement

Some crude math: a 2L with 29psi boost will make roughly the same torqueas a 6L naturally aspirated. However, the work is being done by a larger amount of engine in the 6L, so the stress is much lower.

This is not a heat issue, but rather an output and power delivery issue.

To put it in perspective, getting 500hp out of a FA20 (2.0L) has the same relative stress as getting 1300hp out of a Lamborghini Huracan (5.2L). Or, if you want a more common example, 750hp out of a 2JZ (3.0L).

One thing those cars have in common: none of them are getting that output on the fuel you're trying to use.

[KoolBRZ]

Chat with @Lunatic about his 4.88 FD. He drives mostly in town and on the track, and just the FD shaved 1 second off his 0-60 time. Definitely install more cooling, and maybe a vented hood, if you're going turbo. Supercharging will keep the under-hood temps lower, and give more low-end torque. I would also recommend the Nameless long-tube header as well for better low and mid-range power.