Wheel stud replacement

[Joe-G]

Originally Posted by Books

First time doing rear extended studs. So due to three New England winters, my car is pretty rusted up.

Attempt #1 ended up with not being able to get the stud assembly thing out.

Attempt #2, did some research and bought a slide hammer. The whole assembly was rusted together and instead of pulling it all out, I just got stud carrier thing (?) as pictured:





I was able to slide hammer it all back in... I was wondering if there were any repercussions to pulling that out? I think I probably should have regreased it but I didn't have any at the time.

Did a quick drive around and everything sounded fine. Anything I should note by pulling the whole bearing out?

Isnt that terrible for your bearing? How's it holding up so far? Do you remember what size slide hammer you used??

Trying to picture it in my head.. but i guess the axle nut would hold everything in place anyways rights?

I gave up on my rear studs. Tried using a jaw puller and ended up breaking that. I think Ill just bring it to the shop when it gets a bit warmer.

[Books]

Originally Posted by Joe-G

Isnt that terrible for your bearing? How's it holding up so far? Do you remember what size slide hammer you used??

Trying to picture it in my head.. but i guess the axle nut would hold everything in place anyways rights?

I gave up on my rear studs. Tried using a jaw puller and ended up breaking that. I think Ill just bring it to the shop when it gets a bit warmer.

I've been monitoring it, but so far no issues. I seem to have pulled everything in one piece so it all kinda slid back into place. It's too cold to fix anything myself at this point... Especially after this weekends snow storms. And yes, the axle nut should be holding everything in place.

I used the OTC slide hammer (9 way?) off of amazon (should be the first one). I had another backup plan (after numerous youtubing and googling) to get the axle out and hammer on the hub and bearing to brute force it out, but thankfully didn't have to resort to that.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

[Shankenstein]

Thanks for all of the useful info in this thread.

I wanted to report on my rear install from today.

2 important findings:
- Axle nut is a hobag. The crimp was folded over too much for any amount of screwdriver/punch action to solve. Electric impact to the rescue!

- Hub rusted to knuckle. No amount of PB Blaster and hammering worked. Probably damaged something from the hour of frustrated hammering. PB + a couple heavy hits with a hammer + 3-jaw puller ([ame="http://www.amazon.com/OTC-Mechanical-Grip-O-Matic-Puller-Reversible/dp/B0002SRGCU"]LINK to mine[/ame]) worked!

Will report back if there are ABS or other issues (I didn't remove mine). The motion of the 3-jaw puller cleared the area where the sensor lives... so it didn't seem necessary.

[Decimus]

Originally Posted by Shankenstein

Thanks for all of the useful info in this thread.

I wanted to report on my rear install from today.

2 important findings:
- Axle nut is a hobag. The crimp was folded over too much for any amount of screwdriver/punch action to solve. Electric impact to the rescue!

- Hub rusted to knuckle. No amount of PB Blaster and hammering worked. Probably damaged something from the hour of frustrated hammering. PB + a couple heavy hits with a hammer + 3-jaw puller (LINK to mine) worked!



Will report back if there are ABS or other issues (I didn't remove mine). The motion of the 3-jaw puller cleared the area where the sensor lives... so it didn't seem necessary.

I totally agree with you about the axle nut being punched in too flat. I used a flat head and basically hammered and cut a slit in it and finally folded it up. That was the most troublesome and time consuming piece. Everything else worked easy so thank god!

[markitect]

@Dave-ROR
I had to replace a front hub, and it looks like the bolts holding the hub to the knuckle have red loctite or similar on them so I put some on just to be safe.

[philooo]

I wanted to follow up on my stud problem

check out this video, I am not the only one...

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dnwnb8myWKo"]ARP Wheel Stud Problems with Lug Nuts ---- Scion FRS - YouTube[/ame]

be careful a lot of bad ARP studs are on the shelves right now...
make sure you triple check with long open ended nuts before mounting the studs... ask me how I know ....

[bspec]

Originally Posted by philooo

I wanted to follow up on my stud problem

check out this video, I am not the only one...

be careful a lot of bad ARP studs are on the shelves right now...
make sure you triple check with long open ended nuts before mounting the studs... ask me how I know ....

Same here - I have 4 sets, purchased from Amazon, LOT #116509. 8-10 threads down, full stop. Have you had any luck with ARP @philooo? I'm calling Monday morning.

[philooo]

@bspec, ARP was very dismissive when I called them last month, blaming the nuts, but since then, and especially after this video I think that they realized they had a real problem and they sent me replacement items.

I was annoyed at first that they were blaming me for not mounting the stud properly. I actually had given up and bought short nuts instead.

Now I am receiving the new parts, I'll have to reinstall one set of studs, lucky this time around they are front one.

So for me I received 2 bad set of studs out of 5 ordered, all on amazon.com

[bspec]

Originally Posted by philooo

@bspec, ARP was very dismissive when I called them last month, blaming the nuts, but since then, and especially after this video I think that they realized they had a real problem and they sent me replacement items.

I was annoyed at first that they were blaming me for not mounting the stud properly. I actually had given up and bought short nuts instead.

Now I am receiving the new parts, I'll have to reinstall one set of studs, lucky this time around they are front one.

So for me I received 2 bad set of studs out of 5 ordered, all on amazon.com

Thanks @philooo. Can you share the lot numbers for your good and bad sets?

[Dave-ROR]

Ugh I have some ARP studs that were made in aug 15 for the graffiti car.. sitting in the garage but the lug nuts are at the shop with the car. Guess I'll head over to the shop today to grab a lug nut to test with since I planned on dropping off the hubs/bearings to get the press work done tomorrow (no access to my press currently).

[bspec]

Spoke to Zach at ARP this morning. He sent out 4 replacement sets and return label for the bad sets, no questions asked. He offered background about the die recalibration and long wheel nuts as well. The entire conversation lasted ~2min.

I should have the new sets tomorrow.

[philooo]

For those who have mounted bad ARP studs, it may be tough to get them removed as usual extractor are rather short, I did my front yesterday and I was lucky enough to find 2 extractor that 'work together'. See below:

This extractor was clearly too short...


But luckily I had another extractor that I was able to place on top and it works perfectly



I just hope that they will "stick" as the hub are not designed to change studs often. Time will tell.

[bspec]

Received replacement sets from ARP <24hrs after call. 4 perfect sets, machined and packaged in Feb'16, lot number in the 120K range.

[frs23]

Originally Posted by bspec

Received replacement sets from ARP <24hrs after call. 4 perfect sets, machined and packaged in Feb'16, lot number in the 120K range.

Is this is conclusively saying the ARP studs were bad then, and the root cause is the die was not calibrated correctly or root cause is unknown?