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Old 07-04-2014, 11:28 PM   #29
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Yeah. . aftermarket OP is even easier to install since you don't have to deal with the heat shields. Just have to twist it around until you get the right angle.
Well we had a hell of a time getting it in.
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Old 11-08-2014, 03:13 PM   #30
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Anyone could tell me that the torque specs are for the header to head nuts? Thanks
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Old 11-08-2014, 07:46 PM   #31
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Anyone could tell me that the torque specs are for the header to head nuts? Thanks
I may be way off, but 22 ft-lb IIRC
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Old 11-08-2014, 09:28 PM   #32
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That's what I thought, any difference if using a thicker gasket like the grimmspeed? Thank you though.
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Old 11-21-2014, 05:47 PM   #33
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Does anyone know what type of bolts and nuts go into the stock mid pipe and axle back? I know that there should be four total but I don't know the exact measurements. Any ideas?
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Old 03-06-2015, 05:03 PM   #34
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Dumb questions:

Not familiar with the connectors that lead to the O2 sensors. How do you disconnect them without breaking something? What do you squeeze or where insert flat head driver tip?

Is it safe to spray releasing agent on the O2 sensors while they are still in the exhaust manifold and remove the sensors with an open wrench (without contaminating the sensor tips)?

Thx
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Old 03-06-2015, 08:25 PM   #35
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Check what size the O2 fittings are and buy a socket made for removing them. They have a slot for the wire to go through. A wrench might not be enough to get them out, but you can try it first if you want.
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Old 03-06-2015, 10:57 PM   #36
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Thanks, via Google search if O2 sensor socket is necessary a lot of people said the got away with an open wrench.

Still prefer not to risk breaking the wire connectors if anyone can tell mw what you do to disconnect them.
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Old 03-06-2015, 11:54 PM   #37
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Thanks, via Google search if O2 sensor socket is necessary a lot of people said the got away with an open wrench.

Still prefer not to risk breaking the wire connectors if anyone can tell mw what you do to disconnect them.
It's just like any other connector.
You push the tab down and pull.
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Old 03-07-2015, 12:09 AM   #38
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It's just like any other connector.
You push the tab down and pull.
Tab on the top? With a screw driver?
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Old 03-07-2015, 12:14 AM   #39
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Tab on the top? With a screw driver?
Screwdriver or your finger. Whatever is easiest.
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Old 03-07-2015, 12:27 AM   #40
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Just figured it out. Push down on the ribbed tab on top, out it slides. Sure beats breaking stuff.

Next challenge how to remove the cable tie down clips without breaking them. My gut feeling is push tabs together with screw driver.

I was so good at fixing solid state pinball machines. Lots of electro-mechanical stuff. Automotive is still a learning curve and I refuse to learn the hard way.
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Old 03-07-2015, 07:21 AM   #41
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Next challenge how to remove the cable tie down clips without breaking them. My gut feeling is push tabs together with screw driver.
If i'm thinking of the same clips, I worked them out little by little. I think I pushed the tab in on one side and pushed/pulled that side out. Then I did the same thing to the next side until it was all the way out.
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Old 03-07-2015, 09:01 AM   #42
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If i'm thinking of the same clips, I worked them out little by little. I think I pushed the tab in on one side and pushed/pulled that side out. Then I did the same thing to the next side until it was all the way out.
That was my plan. I'm thinking they will be easy to break. Just removed and discarded one of the same clips that was left over from removing the growl tube a long time ago. Used it for practice trying to push it out of the mounting hole with a flat head screwdriver and manipulating the tabs. In the end it popped out damaged. Perhaps it will be easier when my garage temps are above freezing.
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