Oil Cooler bypass to fix overcooling in winter months

[Indy_FRS]

I am running a Setrab oil cooler core with a Mocal thermostatic plate (Maximal Performance kit). My car is also turbo charged. In Indiana weather below 60F it takes an extremely long time to get my oil in a descent operating range 180F+ to actually enjoy the car. I don't really want to completely pull the oil cooler kit each winter. Fortunately the car is somewhat of a garage queen and doesn't get out much once the roads get salted here.

My best thought was disconnecting the two lines to the core and capping them and installing a bypass loop between the inlet and outlet -an fittings on the sandwich plate. Any concerns or better ideas for this issue.

I imagine I could also block the core but that will require removing the bumper and will somewhat block the intercooler and radiator.

[murdoc]

My last car I just put two sheets of foam rubber on it and zip tied them on, and it was enough that I could get to tempurature withhout much trouble.

[stugray]

Sounds like your thermostat is not working properly.

If you had one of those IR temp sensors, you could determine what temp the thermostat is actuating.
Other than that, the people that do not have a T-stat cover the cooler like @Indy_FRS suggests.

[P@ul]

Just cover it with some cardboard. Granted with snow, you probably want something more sturdy, but that's the idea.

[FRS Justin]

Originally Posted by Indy_FRS

I am running a Setrab oil cooler core with a Mocal thermostatic plate (Maximal Performance kit). My car is also turbo charged. In Indiana weather below 60F it takes an extremely long time to get my oil in a descent operating range 180F+ to actually enjoy the car. I don't really want to completely pull the oil cooler kit each winter. Fortunately the car is somewhat of a garage queen and doesn't get out much once the roads get salted here.

My best thought was disconnecting the two lines to the core and capping them and installing a bypass loop between the inlet and outlet -an fittings on the sandwich plate. Any concerns or better ideas for this issue.

I imagine I could also block the core but that will require removing the bumper and will somewhat block the intercooler and radiator.

I run a mishimoto thermostatic cooler they sell different temp t-stats for it, you might want to check if your brand does too. Warming up shouldn't be a issue it should be 95% closed until temp is reached it will never close 100% as it is designed that way to avoid air getting trapped in the system. The problem you should run into is it constantly going in and out of the temp range you want to remain in, not taking a long time to heat up. good luck

[Indy_FRS]

Originally Posted by stugray

Sounds like your thermostat is not working properly.

If you had one of those IR temp sensors, you could determine what temp the thermostat is actuating.

Good point, I'll definitively look into troubleshooting whether it is stuck open or not. I do have an IR laser temp gun between that and my oil temperature read out hopefully I can make a conclusion whether it is working.

[EAGLE5]

Even with a functioning thermostat, it will take noticeably longer to warm up. Like others said, just cover it with something.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by P@ul

Just cover it with some cardboard. Granted with snow, you probably want something more sturdy, but that's the idea.

Yep, like ol @P@ul suggested, just cover up the core.

Back in the day, when we had very large radiators (which by their large size did most of the cooling), because they weren't shrouded, it was common to slip a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator, so the engine would warm up.

I had an MGB in CT that I drove for several winters, that had an oil cooler up front, that I used to duck tape over in the winter time.


humfrz

[FRS Justin]

If 95% of the oil in the cooler is not flowing then 95% of the problem is not the oil cooler because only 5% is going through and it would have to be artic temp to even remotely effect it like -50. You can try to cover the oil cooler but I would be shocked if that worked. If no results happened try the radiator by covering it with cardboard. Don't forget to check your coolant level as that can cause it to not heat up in the winter.


ECUTEK I believe has oil temp monitor as well you can use to confirm if the oil is cycling or not.


As far as coolant is concerned if the t-stat is stuck open a bit it will cause longer warm up times, if its not stuck open it does not effect the heat up cycle because the coolant is trapped in the block with out being able to circulate just like on a oil cooler with a t-stat


What outside temps are having, that will have a effect along with oil weight.


Covering any part is not fixing the problem its circumventing the problem.


If you just had a non thermostatic and it did this then yes cover the cooler BUT this exactly why thermostatic coolers were designed to stop long warm ups

[sw20kosh]

Originally Posted by FRS Justin

If 95% of the oil in the cooler is not flowing then 95% of the problem is not the oil cooler because only 5% is going through and it would have to be artic temp to even remotely effect it like -50. You can try to cover the oil cooler but I would be shocked if that worked. If no results happened try the radiator by covering it with cardboard. Don't forget to check your coolant level as that can cause it to not heat up in the winter.


ECUTEK I believe has oil temp monitor as well you can use to confirm if the oil is cycling or not.


As far as coolant is concerned if the t-stat is stuck open a bit it will cause longer warm up times, if its not stuck open it does not effect the heat up cycle because the coolant is trapped in the block with out being able to circulate just like on a oil cooler with a t-stat


What outside temps are having, that will have a effect along with oil weight.


Covering any part is not fixing the problem its circumventing the problem.


If you just had a non thermostatic and it did this then yes cover the cooler.

If you have a large enough oil cooler the thermostat will not be able to keep the temps up. This has been proven. We tape off all or some of the oil cooler heat exchanger when not tracking or in colder months.

[FRS Justin]

Originally Posted by sw20kosh

If you have a large enough oil cooler the thermostat will not be able to keep the temps up. This has been proven. We tape off all or some of the oil cooler heat exchanger when not tracking or in colder months.

But does it take awhile to warm up or does it cycle in and out?


What are the outdoor temps that start effecting this and does cooler placement have any bearing on said problem?


I think the coldest its been in san Antonio in the morning is 40degrees and mine is working fine. warms up pretty quick but it does drop in and out of optimal range a bit at hwy speeds I was just going to order a higher temp t-stat. My placement is behind fog light area. thanks

[Decay107]

I use my licence plate in the winter months to block airflow, perfect size for the job.

[ZionsWrath]

I tape over mine. Still takes longer to warm up than my other car. But can't remember how long it took stock.

After 10 mins driving keep it in high rpm for a few minutes. The oil seems to retain heat for a while when I have it blocked off. Like if the oil is 80c and I run third gear on highway and get it over 100c. Then cruise in 6 temp very slowly drops 1 degree at a time but stays above 90c

[FRS Justin]

My thought process was that when mine opened, the extra quart and a half that started to flow was the reason. With mine bolted up on the passenger side the extra length of the lines really increases the volume of oil needed. My car takes 8 quarts total with deep oil pan. so does it heat up like factory, no but it doesn't take a whole lot more time maybe 3 minutes as a guess.