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BRZ First-Gen (2012+) -- General Topics All discussions about the first-gen Subaru BRZ coupe |
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01-12-2017, 04:01 PM | #15 | |
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01-12-2017, 04:21 PM | #16 | |
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The reality of car storage is that you could fill your tank with gas (not E85), disconnect the battery, walk away for a few months or a year come back charge the battery jump in and drive away and never have a single issue. People won't believe that though since they seem to think that the car starts to fall apart as soon as they park it. Cars sit for months and years without special care and they are just fine. Take a piece of steel and place it in your garage. Look at it in a year and see if it has rotted away. Tires may get a very small flat spot after sitting for months and months but 15 minutes of driving in warm weather and they will be as good as new again. They will not fall to pieces. OK guys have at me:
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01-12-2017, 04:55 PM | #17 |
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oh damnnnnn. Look at you. Ready to get burnt.
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01-12-2017, 05:13 PM | #18 | |
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It's far from the end of the world, just considered unsavory by purists. Just park the car and put a tender on the battery. If you can't put a tender on, pull the battery and ask a friend to tend it for you.
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01-12-2017, 05:45 PM | #19 |
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Ready for them to try!
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01-12-2017, 05:51 PM | #20 | |
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Thanks for the info fellas.
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01-12-2017, 05:59 PM | #21 | |
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01-13-2017, 01:06 AM | #22 |
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You can leave E85 sitting. The fuel system is ventless which means fuel can be sitting for months and not degrade significantly. Infact, I don't use fuel stabilizers at all on new stuff. I leave the tank low and refill as soon as I get back. It's only necessary in my humble opinion to use a fuel stabilizer on gas cans because they can and do leak. I never leave fuel where it can fully vent to atmosphere. Gasoline can break down over time and Ethanol can evaporate and absorb moisture. Moisture can cause phase separation in Ethanol blended fuels. You can actually test it by putting fuel in a jar.
I left my car to family last time and came back to a dead battery. It ran fine for months but after four months of sitting they just didn't drive it enough. I didn't have a safe spot to leave a battery tender with the shed being used as a fuel depot. Oh well. I recharged the battery and then I drove it for a solid hour to get fuel and warm up the tires. That was 6 months ago. But you can do your own research. My grandfather was a mechanic but that doesn't make him an expert on fuel storage. And don't get him started on the new stuff. |
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01-13-2017, 02:36 AM | #23 | ||
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If you're worried about the tires, just fill them up to the max psi stated on the sidewall. Quote:
Fuel stabilizer is cheap, use it. |
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01-13-2017, 03:04 AM | #24 |
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My car doesn't get driven a lot because I am out of the country working most of the time.
What I do is change the oil before storage. Give it a good wash, clean out the inside. New air freshener inside. Inflate the tires above average a few psi. Car cover. Battery tender. You can leave the battery unplugged too if you want. Stabil with fresh full tank of gas Has been working well throughout the years. |
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01-13-2017, 06:39 AM | #25 | |
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Old cars used natural rubber for seals and gaskets. Natural rubber need to be kept lubricated with oils and fluids or it breaks down. Anybody that has had a carburetor o ring crumble away in their hand knows what I mean. New cars use no natural rubber and the polymers that are used will last for an eternity if just left alone. Heat and pressure destroy them not drying out. Old cars used an open atmosphere fuel system. You could lose half a tank or more of fuel to evaporation over a few months sitting. That left lots of space for nice moist air to get in and condense giving you water and rust issues. Leaded gas broke down at an alarming rate if not used up so when you started that 1950 Nash Rambler after a few months it would knock and rattle like hell until you got new gas in it. Modern cars with evap systems keep evaporation and therefore air replacement to a tiny, tiny fraction of an open system and new fuels with their additives don't break down at anything near the rate of the old stuff. Old cars had bias ply tires made (again) with real rubber. The construction and nature of those tires meant that the force of the car was not spread out like a radial and leaving them in one place meant you would indeed end up with a horrible flat spot and that spot touching the ground would indeed start to rot a little. There is no real rubber in tires anymore and I think that everybody understands how a radial tire is different. Ya you will get a very minor flat spot but it will go away with a few minutes of driving. Old cars were made with a very high percentage of rusty old scrap steel (where did you think all the WW2 ships, tanks and planes went?") and had zero rust inhibiters so paint would bubble and panels rust from the inside out. Ne cars are made of highly treated steel and are actually galvanized and include inhibiters to prevent rust so sitting is not causing them to rot away (driving them will still though). The only plus side to storing old cars is that the bloody batteries seemed to hold a charge forever since off meant off with zero parasitic drain from electronics. You could leave the things for years and come back, turn the key and drive away. New cars are not the same as the old ones that most of the storage requirements came from and the term "They don't build em' like they used too" is accurate, but in a good way.
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01-18-2017, 11:43 PM | #26 |
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I left my lovely BRZ for about 7 months and had to decide the best way to keep it in good shape while I was out of the country. Went through several options and decided to loan it to a friend while I was gone rather than try to store it and mess with those risks. She had a great time driving it while I was out, and is considering a BRZ of her own now that I am back. She only put about 100 miles on the car while I was gone, and brought it back in great shape.
Win win! Share the love.
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