2017 Subaru BRZ hpde build

[Code Monkey]

Originally Posted by BlueLine

About how think do you think that back plate is that gets put into the transmission?

Probably close to 1" thick.

Today I bled the clutch and removed the clutch spring. The car is still up in the air as I have a couple of mods to install while the driveshaft it out.

[tehShirt]

Originally Posted by Code Monkey

Probably close to 1" thick.
Today I bled the clutch and removed the clutch spring. The car is still up in the air as I have a couple of mods to install while the driveshaft it out.

I'm curious to hear your opinions on the hydraulic TOB setup. I haven't seen anything posted about it since the group buy.

If you are ever in the Greenville or Clemson area of SC, we should meet up. Not the biggest twins scene here. Or I'll have to make it down to GA for a track day.

[i8ur911]

Just happened to stumble across your build thread. Love it!

I also have a Series.Yellow and use it primarily as a track/time trial car. I haven't done nearly the upgrades that you've done though.

Great stuff!

Also interested to hear about the hydraulic TOB.

[Code Monkey]

Since the transmisison was out and the driveshaft was out, why not kill two birds with one stone and improve the rear end? To wit:

OS Giken 1.5 way, setup by CSG, backlash checked by Controlled Motors
Diftech differential cover gasket
Whiteline rear diff mounts KDT923
Whiteline rear subframe inserts KDT922

I also have the KDT924 bushings to install but will leave it to a shop. The car was out of commission for 6 weeks and I really want to drive it.

[beltax90]

one of the coolest cars / builds on here

[Code Monkey]

A note about the JDL ultra quiet FP....

The pipe itself is great quality, but the cat and gaskets are not...

Installed at 20,200 miles, the cat is already rattling at 21,043...

The donut gasket is shot, the OEM donut still looks great after 20,200 miles... Replaced the gasket with a Vibrant 10108G.

The front gasket separated, maybe I squished it too much, but there was no note what kind of gasket it was. Looks like it could be Remflex but I am not 100 percent sure. Replaced with Remflex material I ordered off of Amazon and my craftsman workmanship.

Will check in a few weeks for any leaks.

[Code Monkey]

Was planning to update this thread with my impressions of the OS Giken and hydraulic TOB but got a check engine light a week before heading to Road Atlanta. Codes P119F and P219A came up and my first thought was either my hand-made gasket failed or knowing my shit luck valves will need to be adjusted.

Upon poking around, I noticed my ACE header is cracked around one runner, taking it tomorrow to be welded.

[Code Monkey]

Waiting for the header to be fixed, I installed a REAL leather steering wheel and a 2018 tS steering wheel trim.

[Code Monkey]

Got the header fixed and the check engine light codes are gone!

The runner that was cracked on the inside is in the 2nd picture. All the other runners got reinforced as in the 4th picture.

There was also a crack forming on the outside on the other side, so that got fixed too, 3rd picture.

The header/overpipe gasket was shot, a new set of studs and gaskets went it.

Finally, installed an STi flexible v-bar I scored on the forum a couple months ago.

[tehShirt]

Nice choice on the steering wheel, I had mine done with custom stitch color as well. Did yours center perfectly?

Any clue why the header broke? I haven't seen another Ace on here with that issue.

[Code Monkey]

Originally Posted by tehShirt

Did yours center perfectly?

I think it is just slightly off center, but not enough to bother me. I know I have it aligned perfectly with the clock spring and looking at the splines I think one over would result in a more crooked wheel.

Originally Posted by tehShirt

Any clue why the header broke? I haven't seen another Ace on here with that issue.

There are few ACE headers out there that cracked. I think the usual cause is too much torsional load which supposedly happens when you pair the header with a cheap aftermarket catback. I am running the CSG Touring catback and the JDL ultra quiet FP. The JDL FP does not use spring-loaded bolts where it connects to the catback. This time, I came up with longer bolts and switched the springs from the OEM bolts.

But in general, I break things. I broke many OEM and aftermarket parts on different platforms. My wife said I should test parts for car and parts manufacturers. And stop breaking her wine glasses.

[mistople]

Originally Posted by Code Monkey

A note about the JDL ultra quiet FP....

The pipe itself is great quality, but the cat and gaskets are not...

Installed at 20,200 miles, the cat is already rattling at 21,043...

The donut gasket is shot, the OEM donut still looks great after 20,200 miles... Replaced the gasket with a Vibrant 10108G.

The cat in my UQFP lasted about 2 months before getting knocked out of place. I think I put maybe one track day on it IIRC. Super annoying. Took it out and put my stock FP back in.

[Lantanafrs2]

Originally Posted by mistople

The cat in my UQFP lasted about 2 months before getting knocked out of place. I think I put maybe one track day on it IIRC. Super annoying. Took it out and put my stock FP back in.

Its amazing how good the stock stuff works lol.

[mistople]

Originally Posted by Lantanafrs2

Its amazing how good the stock stuff works lol.

The more I get into cars, the more I realize how true this is!