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Old 10-08-2015, 10:42 PM   #29
C4RBON
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I just replaced my plastic reverse lockout with a Beatrush model. I have a few tips:

1) A 2x4 wrapped in a detailing cloth fits perfectly between the shifter and HVAC controls (while the shifter is in the reverse position). This will support the shifter while you hammer the roll pin out and back in. This makes it easy, fast, and reduces the risk of damage.
2) Nails, drill bits, hex keys, and screw drivers are NOT the correct tool for removing a roll pin. A roll pin punch is the correct tool. I used a #3 roll pin punch (3/32") and it worked beautifully. Individually they are a few dollars. Used correctly and infrequently, a nice set ($40) will last a lifetime.
3) Remove the shift boot & trim after removing the shift knob. Grab the shift boot trim ring at the back and pull straight up (there are videos and guides for this). It pops right out and makes everything easier. Re-install it when your new lockout is in place, and you just pull the boot right over the top of the lockout.
4) Put the transmission in reverse before removing the roll pin. Leave it in reverse until the roll pin is re-installed. If you mess up and the reverse cable/plunger drops (you'll see once you remove the boot), a straight pick can grab the hole and help realign it.

Beatrush reverse lockout mini review:
1) The machining and anodizing is exquisite. It is super smooth. I got red, and it is almost a deep cherry red. It is a darker shade of red than the red stitching in the car. It doesn't look out-of-place, though.
2) Made in Japan.
3) It is overpriced for what it is. But because of 1 & 2, it is $60. I've spent more on junk in the past, and this item should last the lifetime of the car.
4) My only complaint is that the roll pin holes contrast sharply with the smoothness of the rest of the piece. I really notice them when my hand is on the gear knob and lockout. Its not really a "problem" but if I have to name one area for improvement, that would be it. A chamfer/countersink on the hole would help cut the sharp edge. Or machining a flat where the hole is located, like the OEM reverse lockout.

Hope this helps.
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Old 12-14-2015, 05:21 AM   #30
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how to re-insert the roll pin ? I still have a small part outside the new lockout, I have difficulty to hammer it without contact with the lockout..
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Old 05-15-2016, 11:48 PM   #31
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Garage
After installing my reverse lockout, it feels like I have to push way harder to the left to get the shifter into first. What is going on??
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Old 07-21-2016, 12:47 PM   #32
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Have a problem here, I have the red raceseng lockout installed and I'm trying to swap in out to the gubmetal color I just received. However there aren't two holes for the pin like on the stock lockout, so there is no way for me to hammer out the pin to remove the lockout. Does anyone know another way of removing it?
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Old 07-21-2016, 04:43 PM   #33
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Have a problem here, I have the red raceseng lockout installed and I'm trying to swap in out to the gubmetal color I just received. However there aren't two holes for the pin like on the stock lockout, so there is no way for me to hammer out the pin to remove the lockout. Does anyone know another way of removing it?
You remove the pin from the raceseng lockout by unscrewing it with a 2mm hex. Only stock lockout requires to be hammered out
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Old 07-21-2016, 06:10 PM   #34
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You remove the pin from the raceseng lockout by unscrewing it with a 2mm hex. Only stock lockout requires to be hammered out
This!
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Old 05-07-2017, 05:12 PM   #35
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OMG so I am that guy....

Knocked the pin out in third gear and then pulled my bit out so the thing has dropped down....

How exactly do I get the hole back up to get it into reverse??

Thanks!
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Old 05-07-2017, 05:34 PM   #36
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Ok I'm still an idiot but I figured it out. I was worried I was going to have to pull all the boot out to retrieve the mechanism.

I actually found fishing that bit up easier than aligning the pin back in with the new lockout collar slid over.

I didn't get a fancy one with a screw, just an OEM style one but in black anodized Aluminum. All in now and working, looks/feels a bit better.

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OMG so I am that guy....

Knocked the pin out in third gear and then pulled my bit out so the thing has dropped down....

How exactly do I get the hole back up to get it into reverse??

Thanks!
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Old 03-09-2018, 06:07 PM   #37
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Sorry to bump an old thread but I'm trying to install my new raceseng lockout and my pin will not budge. I don't have a proper punch set but I do have a 3/32 allen wrench and I've also tried a drill bit. This pin does not move a millimeter, I'm about to spray some WD-40 in there and go to town.
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Old 03-09-2018, 06:27 PM   #38
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Sorry to bump an old thread but I'm trying to install my new raceseng lockout and my pin will not budge. I don't have a proper punch set but I do have a 3/32 allen wrench and I've also tried a drill bit. This pin does not move a millimeter, I'm about to spray some WD-40 in there and go to town.
The key is having the exact right size of punch. I tried everything to no avail. With the right punch it came out in 10 seconds
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Old 03-11-2018, 12:41 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by StraightOuttaCanadaEh View Post
The key is having the exact right size of punch. I tried everything to no avail. With the right punch it came out in 10 seconds
I got a punch set this morning, used the 3/32 and it still won't budge. I even sprayed a bit of WD40 in the hole and on the punch and took out my metal hammer and hit it harder and nothing! It's like the damn thing is super glued in there. I'm outta ideas and staring at this reverse lockout on my desk is driving me mad.


Edit: Okay, so for future reference, just ask someone else to hold the shifter in place so you're not losing so much force every time you hammer it. The pin came off in less than a minute once I got someone to hold it for me. It was a super frustrating experience but well worth it as the extra 5 HP is much appreciated.



Last edited by Zoid; 03-11-2018 at 01:31 PM.
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