Suspension priority LCA / Camber Plates

[MyNameIsCacauate]

So I'm about to lower my car a little more. Believed it's dropped .7" right now and I'm moving towards 1.2 soon. How important is an aftermarket LCA after dropping a car to ~ 1.2"? I currently have camber plates ready for install, however, I've read a few topics saying LCA's are a MUST if dropped anything lower than 1". How much of this is true for tire wear?

[wparsons]

Depends on what you want the rear camber to be... A ~1.2" drop will have you at pretty close to -3* in the rear, which is probably a lot more than what you want.

Kinda related, I hope you have coilovers and not just a spring for a 1.2" drop.

[MyNameIsCacauate]

Originally Posted by wparsons

Depends on what you want the rear camber to be... A ~1.2" drop will have you at pretty close to -3* in the rear, which is probably a lot more than what you want.

Kinda related, I hope you have coilovers and not just a spring for a 1.2" drop.

Yeah, I have kw3s. Didn't think it was that important and dang -3 is quite a bit. Sounds like a crapload of tire wear and don't think I can get my toe low either.

[PeterFRS]

I have been on -3.2? Front
And -2.7 rear for past two years
And to be honest, no real visible camber wear ..

[churchx]

PeterFRS: but most probably you had that camber dialed because you sometimes go to track, and large share of tire wear is on/from track, isn't it?

MyNameIsCacauate: btw, i suggest to keep lowering within inch. Or if you absolutely-absolutely must drop lower then that, then read also on other parts that should be used/installed. For example, diff riser, roll center adjustment parts and such.

[MyNameIsCacauate]

Originally Posted by churchx

PeterFRS: but most probably you had that camber dialed because you sometimes go to track, and large share of tire wear is on/from track, isn't it?

MyNameIsCacauate: btw, i suggest to keep lowering within inch. Or if you absolutely-absolutely must drop lower then that, then read also on other parts that should be used/installed. For example, diff riser, roll center adjustment parts and such.

you think a diff riser is really necessary? I see many people dropped much lower than 1.2" so I'd assume it wasn't that low.

[churchx]

1) do you know, if all from those others doing more lowering haven't installed other parts to fix issues caused by overlowering? Or they are not among those that don't care about issues caused, as far as they get looks they want for relatively cheap? Do they track theirs? How long mileage they are running that lowered?
2) it will run without diff riser. But bearings will have shorter life. It will run without roll center adjustment kits, but handling will be worse due fscked up suspension geometry.

Not lessening life of parts or not worsening handling or not having to spend extra to fix overlowering caused problems are reasons why suspension guys like RCE don't advise lowering these cars >1". Twins already are rather low, and their shocks already have rather short travel.

Of course, it's your car and your money, and you also are free to ignore advises and close eyes to illeffects as far you get your wished looks and not spend extra to do it properly (if such drop is absolutely must have). But i in your place would heed what suspension guys say and stay at within reasonable lowering limits like some 20mm or upto 1".

[MyNameIsCacauate]

Originally Posted by churchx

1) do you know, if all from those others doing more lowering haven't installed other parts to fix issues caused by overlowering? Or they are not among those that don't care about issues caused, as far as they get looks they want for relatively cheap? Do they track theirs? How long mileage they are running that lowered?
2) it will run without diff riser. But bearings will have shorter life. It will run without roll center adjustment kits, but handling will be worse due fscked up suspension geometry.

Not lessening life of parts or not worsening handling or not having to spend extra to fix overlowering caused problems are reasons why suspension guys like RCE don't advise lowering these cars >1". Twins already are rather low, and their shocks already have rather short travel.

Of course, it's your car and your money, and you also are free to ignore advises and close eyes to illeffects as far you get your wished looks and not spend extra to do it properly (if such drop is absolutely must have). But i in your place would heed what suspension guys say and stay at within reasonable lowering limits like some 20mm or upto 1".

I actually appreciate the advice because it's something that is overlooked. Reason why I originally asked this question is because obviously, I'm trying to close the wheel gap considering I'm a wide body which is why I asked about the lower control arms to fix tire wear. Between the two, what's more important then; lcas or the overlooked roll center? How much will my tire actually wear with a little bit more camber and toe?

[churchx]

lca-s imho are in general nice to have no matter what setup, as they add missing in stock rear camber adjustment. Slight adjustment within mounting bolts play is simply too little of range, especially in case such as yours, where you lower, and might want to get camber back to a bit more reasonable values for street driving. There is option to change camber in rear via bushings, but it's not THAT much cheaper vs cheapest LCAs out there, and much more PITA to install/adjust imho. For front one can get by using cheap camber bolts, but for rear imho best price/performancy camber adjustment via some cheapest LCAs (like SPC/Whiteline/Eibach).
Camber itself adds some extra wear, but nowhere near how much toe can. And it's more of type of uneven side wear type from non optimal camber, not overall wear. Though one may not like car having tendency more to follow road grooves with extreme camber. Toe usually affects wear much more, but luckily twins have toe adjustment front & rear stock.
P.S.
If you will still consider more of drop, in addition to diff riser/roll center adjustment kits, imho it's worth also get stiffer springs to take in to account shorter left bumpstop free shock travel & change topmounts to ones relocating coilover/strut upper mount above that of stock, to keep some of reduced shock travel.