RCE Tarmac 2 CLUBSPORT and RCE Tarmac 0 coilovers available now

[PANDA86]

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

I am buying Tarmac Zero's today. If I lower the car 1-1.5", will I REALLY need to modify camber? How bad can I expect it to get? Honest answers please. I am looking to buy the least amount of suspension parts possible, so I only want to get what is absolutely necessary.

Will that drop REQUIRE LCA's to correct camber gone bad? How many degrees can I expect to get from lowering it in that range?

Whenever changing the geometry/function i.e. height, camber, toe on your suspension, it's better that you get an alignment so that you can adjust as necessary as you'll know what your vehicle will require from their analysis reading.

[djdnz]

Hi @Racecomp Engineering

I had my eyes set on a set of KW V3's but the lower price point of the Tarmac 0 has my interest peaked. My main concern is the damping itself, can you please comment on maybe the downsides of the dampers on the Tarmac 0 vs the V3/Tarmac 2? (minus the ability of adjustment of course, which if I'm honest I doubt I would really play with much if I had the V3's).

Is there a significant difference in technology/method of damping/valving that the T0 uses compared to the V3/T2? Would it be possible to set the V3's to feel the same as the T0's, or is there something inherently different? If my memory serves, the spring rates in the KW's are 340/400 (?), is there a reason you went so much softer aside from the added comfort?

Also, last would be about the lifetime warranty. Is that through you or through KW - and does it work the same for Canadians?

PM a price for the T0 to Kitchener, ON, N2E3V9 Canada with USPS?

[BRZ NA]

Originally Posted by Calum

They both use KW shocks with RCE valving. The difference between the 0's and 2's is going to be in the valving, and the 0's don't have adjustable damping.

Personally I don't think anyone should be adjusting damping without a shock dyno, or a VERY well calibrated butt dyno.

Sorry,I meant compare with the stock kW

[UnOvertime]

They are here, will be installing them on Sunday!!

[Racecomp Engineering]

Like any lowering application if you lower the car much more than an inch (25.4mm) you start to kill your camber curve(geometry) resulting in more of a push(understeer).

If someone says" i just want my car to be LOW and dont care how it handles", then sure lower away.

For this set up NO LCA are not needed if you stick to the 20-25mm lowering range. Yes you should get WL rear camber adjustment bushings so you can even out rear camber at a minimum.



SIDE NOTE:People seem to be stuck on replacing rear control arms yet dont replace the FAR MORE important upper control arm bushings that have 4 , soft, bushings that hold the 2 heaviest arms to the rear of the subframe. So yes those who replace rear control arms and did NOT replace those upper bushings have only put MORE pressure and strain on the upper bushings. Lets see Whiteline rear camber adjustment bushings cost 150.00 and rear control arms are 550.00.

Anyway....the only parts needed to install these coilovers are the OEM conical washer that I posted on the previous page. Thats needed for use of OEM, GROUP-N, and COM-C front mounts. The rear can use STOCK mounts.

These shocks come with a slight slot on the front struts so use the stock bolt to adjust camber as it does NOT Stretch like the WL camber bolts do. STOCk can be tq-ed to 140 ft lbs. WL's stretch above 85 ft lbs.

Hope that helps.

Myles

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by djdnz

Hi @Racecomp Engineering

I had my eyes set on a set of KW V3's but the lower price point of the Tarmac 0 has my interest peaked. My main concern is the damping itself, can you please comment on maybe the downsides of the dampers on the Tarmac 0 vs the V3/Tarmac 2? (minus the ability of adjustment of course, which if I'm honest I doubt I would really play with much if I had the V3's).

Is there a significant difference in technology/method of damping/valving that the T0 uses compared to the V3/T2? Would it be possible to set the V3's to feel the same as the T0's, or is there something inherently different? If my memory serves, the spring rates in the KW's are 340/400 (?), is there a reason you went so much softer aside from the added comfort?

Also, last would be about the lifetime warranty. Is that through you or through KW - and does it work the same for Canadians?

PM a price for the T0 to Kitchener, ON, N2E3V9 Canada with USPS?

The Zero's feel like and are equal to V3's at about 65-70% adjusted firm. So its a very solid compromise between performance and daily driving. With that said the softer spring rates to some degree ensure that its very daily driver-able !

Again... there are optional rates of 350/350 and 400/400 for those who want a more aggressive....set it and forget it set up. Yes we went that soft knowing that there are FAR more people who daily drive their cars and do NOT want SUPER FIRM and or track day tolerable set ups. The outpouring of response has been this,....." Hi I dont plan to track my car or autocross but I like to drive spiritedly from time to time and maybe lower my car. I was on the fence about the yellows but these piqued my interest...". Literally had about 12 pm's in a row like that and I thought it was one of my employees pulling a prank. Then we realized....not everyone with a Zizzle or Frizzle is SUPER GT hardcore !

So the softer rates are very much designed for THAT guy ! ( hence our old usage of "REGULAR GUY" springs for the Impreza's !

Warranty goes thru KW USA in SANGER California.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by JoeBoxer

In my personal car and another car we tried to align yesterday the right rear camber was over a degree more negative than the left rear. Just be prepared that you might have to buy some LCA's or camber bushings.

This is a GOOD point. If I might add.....

If one buys Lower control arms....PLEASE replace the upper rear control arm bushings with Whiteline poly bushings that are NOT adjustable and are a 2 piece deal. IF you do NOT replace Lower control arms then get the WL adjustable camber bushings for the upper arms.

Myles

[Racecomp Engineering]

For T2 owners here are some basic settings to get started with. I used this huge sheet while tuning months ago. I am working on a comprehensive set up sheet to post in a few weeks.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Keep one thing in mind: my car has ALL pillowball and poly bushings.

When I had ALL STOCK bushings I was much higher on rebound by about 4 clicks. Each major bushing change resulted in tuning rebound OUT(down). This shows that the bushings DO effect feel considerably.

Also when making changes to rebound and compression, make ONE CHANGE AT A TIME. Other wise you wont know what made the difference you like. I always start by tuning the extremes: super bumpy back road at slower speed, then same road at higher speeds( WITHIN REASON AND THE LAW and COMMON SENSE).

Then tune for smoother roads and find happy medium.

Make sure tire pressure is correct.

THese are the basics. Im not opposed to calls asking about set up. But I will almost ALWAYS ask you " whats your settings" on the phone.

Enjoy.

Myles

[pmccut]

Just got my T2s in the mail today. Excited to replace the stance c/os!


I've had the T2s on my WRX for ~6 months and am very happy with them. Thanks RCE!

[melon]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

MAKE SURE YOU GUYS USE the GD CHASSIS OEM CONICAL WASHER on the fronts. These go BETWEEN the top PERCH and the mount( OEM, Group-n or COM-C).

[IMG][/IMG]

Hmmm.. asides from the Tarmac 0, I still need this?

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by melon

Hmmm.. asides from the Tarmac 0, I still need this?

and T2 and V3...and when using stock front mounts, com-c and group-n with coilover top perch, yes.

Myles

[wootwoot]

Do either of these set ups offer additional suspension travel over stock? If so, how much front and rear?

[uspspro]

As soon as I can swing it, I will be getting these Tarmac 0s.

I'm glad such a setup was produced. Thanks RCE!