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Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing.


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Old 01-12-2020, 02:30 AM   #15
Stomachbuzz
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the thing I don't get is how you're supposed to access the end links with the car on the ground...?

Do you lock the steering wheel to one side and reach in and do it? Then vice versa for the other side?
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Old 01-12-2020, 06:04 AM   #16
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the thing I don't get is how you're supposed to access the end links with the car on the ground...?

Do you lock the steering wheel to one side and reach in and do it? Then vice versa for the other side?
That, or wheel ramps.
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Old 01-12-2020, 10:59 AM   #17
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I'm still confused on this issue since [from my understanding and visual intuition of the sway bar] the length of the endlink doesn't affect preload. Preload comes from each side being at a different position. So if one endlink is 10" and the other one is 8.5", that would create a preload on the swaybar. This would mimic one wheel being 'higher' than the other through a corner.

But if they are both at the same position, I don't see how that creates any preload. What it does do is change the orientation of the swaybar with respect to the strut, which I'm sure is necessary for lowering the car.

In other words, if you just set both endlinks to the same length, no matter the length, then you wouldn't have preload. I assume it might create binding if the geometry isn't correct though.

But maybe I'm wrong
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Old 01-12-2020, 11:13 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stomachbuzz View Post
I'm still confused on this issue since [from my understanding and visual intuition of the sway bar] the length of the endlink doesn't affect preload. Preload comes from each side being at a different position. So if one endlink is 10" and the other one is 8.5", that would create a preload on the swaybar. This would mimic one wheel being 'higher' than the other through a corner.

But if they are both at the same position, I don't see how that creates any preload. What it does do is change the orientation of the swaybar with respect to the strut, which I'm sure is necessary for lowering the car.

In other words, if you just set both endlinks to the same length, no matter the length, then you wouldn't have preload. I assume it might create binding if the geometry isn't correct though.

But maybe I'm wrong
Honesty, doing it this way is going to be pretty close. But the car is not going to settle the same and have equal corner balance so you would want to adjust it with the car on the ground to get it perfect.
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Old 01-12-2020, 11:57 AM   #19
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Honesty, doing it this way is going to be pretty close. But the car is not going to settle the same and have equal corner balance so you would want to adjust it with the car on the ground to get it perfect.
I just set them to the OEM lengths for the time being.
My car isn't yet lowered.
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Old 01-12-2020, 03:49 PM   #20
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Honesty, doing it this way is going to be pretty close. But the car is not going to settle the same and have equal corner balance so you would want to adjust it with the car on the ground to get it perfect.
^^^this
@Stomachbuzz you're mostly right, but you need to take vehicle weight into account.

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Old 01-16-2020, 10:57 PM   #21
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^^^ This. The weight load from the chassis on the suspension is not perfectly even. Because of this you will get different loads on the suspension at each corner, resulting in different amounts of static compression of your suspension. This leads to the need to adjust each of the endlinks individually with the car on the ground.
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Old 01-17-2020, 01:36 PM   #22
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Okay, so how do you prepare the swaybar to be flat?

The eyelet where the endlink connects is at the end of a curved portion, not a flat part of the arm.
My best guess would be to make sure the endlink is perfectly vertical, to maximize articulation.

Picture taken from: https://www.suspension.com/blog/how-...-sway-bar-brz/
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Old 01-17-2020, 01:57 PM   #23
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Okay, so how do you prepare the swaybar to be flat?

The eyelet where the endlink connects is at the end of a curved portion, not a flat part of the arm.
My best guess would be to make sure the endlink is perfectly vertical, to maximize articulation.

Picture taken from: https://www.suspension.com/blog/how-...-sway-bar-brz/
It needs to be flat with the wheels on the ground. Are your wheels off on this pic?

Edit: oops, didn’t see you pulled that image from online.

Last edited by norcalpb; 01-17-2020 at 04:30 PM.
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Old 01-20-2020, 05:25 PM   #24
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Get a second jack or use the scissor jack and lift up rotor and suspension to the same height it would be if the wheel was on. It works. Easier than ramps and trying to tighten them from under the car.
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Old 01-21-2020, 12:29 PM   #25
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Get a second jack or use the scissor jack and lift up rotor and suspension to the same height it would be if the wheel was on. It works. Easier than ramps and trying to tighten them from under the car.
Right. That was how I did it when I originally installed them.
I figured doing it with wheels on & car on ground was ridiculous. So I just put a jack until the outer part of the control arm.
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